2nd lidded box

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pmpartain

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This is Big Leaf Maple Burl. It's about 4 1/2 inches tall. First one I did was plain red oak shaped like a cylinder. I used scrap usually reserved for jam chucks. Any suggestions to improve the shape of the form? Do you like the button on top and the shape of the base? Are there techniques to further mask the seam of the lid and the body?

Thanks
 

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marcruby

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There are a number of ways to deal with the seam, but most actually emphasize the seam in a way that makes it seem to belong there. Or you can undercut the join and pick a wood that lets you line up the grain perfectly. Raffan has a book that goes into boxmaking pretty thoroughly, try that.

I don't mind the button, although it's not my style, I prefer contrasting finials. From the photo it looks like the bottom is slightly out of round with the lid. It's pretty good for a beginners box, though.

Marc

This is Big Leaf Maple Burl. It's about 4 1/2 inches tall. First one I did was plain red oak shaped like a cylinder. I used scrap usually reserved for jam chucks. Any suggestions to improve the shape of the form? Do you like the button on top and the shape of the base? Are there techniques to further mask the seam of the lid and the body?

Thanks
 

pmpartain

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Apr 13, 2006
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Location
Fayetteville, AR, USA.
I think the pic makes it look out of round. I left a tight fit between the top and bottom and finished the outside with them together with a square end scraper. I tried to keep the pieces together during sanding as well, but I think that's when I messed up the joint. I did undercut the bottom for a tight fit. Before sanding you couldn't even see the seam. Thanks for the input on the shape. Some people like it as is. Some don't care for the button. My wife is one of those folks!
 
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marcruby

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There's too many things that can go wrong with a perfectly even seam. I prefer to let the seam be visible with a gap about the size of a plastic playing card. Or to use Raffan's style with beads and structure that integrate the seam. The nice thing about an actual break is that it will hid minor grain mismatches. If you try for perfection it makes every little flaw a glaring one.

Marc
 

pmpartain

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You are right. Can you use a thin parting tool and add a piece of wood to the lid that you could turn down and make the joining section between the pieces? That way you don't have to part such a wide section to use for that purpose.
 

marcruby

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You can, I've never tried it. You would have to be very precise. If I was going to do that I'd use contrasting wood and use it to form a bead at the join. Don't let me discourage you -- box making is a real test of a turner's skill. The higher you set your goals the more you will achieve.

Marc

You are right. Can you use a thin parting tool and add a piece of wood to the lid that you could turn down and make the joining section between the pieces? That way you don't have to part such a wide section to use for that purpose.
 
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