PR molds

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2good2burn

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I thought I read something somewhere that said you could use tupperware or the ziplock container (throw away kind) to pour the PR into. Can anyone confirm this? I'm looking for something that can be easily found, easily replaced, and not expensive. I'm impatient to wait for a shipment to deliver.
Thank you.
 
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sbell111

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I used a tupperware-like container for some of my first PR blanks. It worked fine, but since the corners weren't really square, I feel like I had more waste than I needed.

A different way to go is to buy a white poly cutting board and make a mold out of it. Just cut it up using the table saw or band saw so you have a bottom the same size as the block that you wish to pour and four sides. Many people use screws to put these molds together, but I simply duct-taped mine. I finish it up with a bit of goop 'caulking' the seams. After letting that dry for just a few minutes, I'm ready to mix up a batch of PR.

Since the mold is duct-taped together, demolding is a breeze. I just remove the tape, knock down the mold, and pop off the slab. Since the mold knocks down flat, it's easy peasy to store.
 

jcollazo

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You could also use PVC sprinkler pipe. 1/2" works great for slimlines, comforts, and euro/designers. the 3/4" work for almost everything. A 10 foot length would cost 2-3 dollars. Cut them down to the length you need. Buy caps for the the ends.

And you end up up with round blanks... less waste.
 

2good2burn

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Steve
Thanks for the info. That seems like a pretty simple way to go. I know it seems ridiculous, but I'm trying to prove to my husband that I can figure these technical things out w/o his help (he's not a turner, but does every other kind of WW out there). What type of 'caulk' do you use? And you're just sealing the seams correct?
 

sbell111

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Originally posted by jcollazo

You could also use PVC sprinkler pipe. 1/2" works great for slimlines, comforts, and euro/designers. the 3/4" work for almost everything. A 10 foot length would cost 2-3 dollars. Cut them down to the length you need. Buy caps for the the ends.

And you end up up with round blanks... less waste.
I've made many using PVC pipe and the Wal-Mart ice trays. They work awesome, except if you are casting under pressure. I had a heck of a time a while back getting some coffee bean castings demolded. I ended up utterly destroying the blanks, but at least I can use my mold again.
 

sbell111

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Originally posted by 2good2burn

Steve
Thanks for the info. That seems like a pretty simple way to go. I know it seems ridiculous, but I'm trying to prove to my husband that I can figure these technical things out w/o his help (he's not a turner, but does every other kind of WW out there). What type of 'caulk' do you use? And you're just sealing the seams correct?
That's right. I'm just sealing the seams.

I've actually been using a tube of Goop glue. I apply a small bead and then press it into the seam with my finger. It sets up quickly to give a flexible seal. When it's time to knock down the mold, the glue comes right off. (It comes right off my finger, also. [:p])
 

2good2burn

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Thank you both Steve and Joe!

This gives me 2 cheap and fast options to try. I'm gonna try both. Now I just have to steal some pvc from my hubby and I'll be set! I can guarantee he won't miss the cutting board in the kitchen ;)
 
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LaughingHard.gif

Originally posted by 2good2burn

I can guarantee he won't miss the cutting board in the kitchen ;)
 

sbell111

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I did a bad, bad thing last night.

I had some redwood burl and spalted maple burl that I wanted to cast in resin for a mild 'worthless wood' treatment.

I taped up my mold, tossed in the blanks, using stir sticks to provide seperation so I could get better PR coverage, and mixed up two cups of resin; one antique silver and the other red. I poured in the antique silver and then kind of gently swirled in the red. I was pretty darn proud of myself.

I was just about to transfer my creation to my pot when I noticed something. Something very, very bad. My beautiful PR was seeping out of my mold. AARGH!!! I had forgotted to seal the seams!!!

I quickly threw some clamps onto the mold to slow the leakage (basically taking the tourniquet approach). It reduced the leakage to the point where the PR didn't all leak out prior to setting up, but kept me from being able to place the brew into my pressure pot.

This afternoon, I'll pop them out of the mold, cut them apart on the band saw, and inspect the damage. I suspect that the blanks themselves will still be fine, but the 'worthless wood' treatment won't take. We'll probably just turn them using a massive amount of CA to keep them together.

Oh well.
 

Modelmaker

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I hate leakers, I had one major one a few years ago, out of a 2 gallon pour half of that ended up on the floor, my shoe, everything. On the plus side My shoes are waterproof after that [:p]
 

armchi

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I think there is an article on casting PR and they were using the 3/4" copper pipes with the end caps on one end. I don't cast that much but that's what I've been using. I drilled several holes slightly bigger than 3/4" onto a 3x4 and use it to hold the pipes. I cut the pipes to about 5-1/2 to 6 inches and use a q-tip to smear vaseline onto the tubes. Just be warned that the pipe does get too hot to handle with bare hands.

Part of the article also had 1/4" holes drilled on end caps where a rod was used to hold the pen tubes in the center. But I think it was an old article and probably new cheaper menthods were found to do the same job.
 

2good2burn

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I've started using PVC for molds and they work great, but I just can't get the swirl or multi color affect. Either I'm mixing too much prior to gel, or not close enough to gel stage. Or I'm just not meant to cast. [V]

I've seen some fantastic swirls from turners, admire them, but was hoping I could get some tips.

Thank you in advance for your feedback (and past feedback)
 
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Originally posted by 2good2burn

I've started using PVC for molds and they work great, but I just can't get the swirl or multi color affect. Either I'm mixing too much prior to gel, or not close enough to gel stage. Or I'm just not meant to cast. [V]

I've seen some fantastic swirls from turners, admire them, but was hoping I could get some tips.

Thank you in advance for your feedback (and past feedback)

How much MEKp are you using? What color liquid/paste pigment are you using? How much liquid/paste pigment are you using? How l-o--n---g are you waiting before "mixing"?
 

randyrls

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Originally posted by sbell111

I did a bad, bad thing last night.


I was just about to transfer my creation to my pot when I noticed something. Something very, very bad. My beautiful PR was seeping out of my mold. AARGH!!! I had forgotted to seal the seams!!!

Oh well.

Steve; I have not done any casting but some time ago I came across this place that has reusable molds. The bottom most one on this page is 3 x 6 x 1" and holds 9 oz of resin. Just the right size for pens.

http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/group_id/540/ENVIRONMENTAL-TECH-Resin-Molds.htm

Sorry about your mess.
 

2good2burn

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Seems I had 2 questions going at once and posted this under the wrong one. I'm going to repost under the correct one, but wanted to answer your question.

I've read SEVERAL different articles and combed thru this forum on how much MEKP to use. Some used 7 drops per ounce and some 4-5. I've tried both. That doesnt seem to make a difference in my colors mixing I don't think.

I'm using the Pearl ex colors, I've used blue and silver, green and pink, copper and black. Hard to tell how much, its probably a fingernail pile on the end of my popsicle stick. Mix them both separately for about 2 minutes, and stir occasionally until they get thicker. Then pour into mold. Mix up a little, and then I've tried mixing every few minutes, I've tried not mixing until a later time, but maybe the timing just isn't right.
 

PaulDoug

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I probably shouldn't reply here, because I have not done any casting yet. I read every post about it because I really want to get into casting in the futuer. My question is: if you used this kind of mold, http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36262 couldn't you mix your colors, pour into the mold at the right time and than stir every few moments in the mold to keep the swirls until it started to "gel"? If this is to far off base don't bother answering, I will learn my answer as I go.

Thanks
 

Modelmaker

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Originally posted by PaulDoug

I probably shouldn't reply here, because I have not done any casting yet. I read every post about it because I really want to get into casting in the futuer. My question is: if you used this kind of mold, http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36262 couldn't you mix your colors, pour into the mold at the right time and than stir every few moments in the mold to keep the swirls until it started to "gel"? If this is to far off base don't bother answering, I will learn my answer as I go.

Thanks

You can mix up your colors separately and then pour them into the mold at the same time moving them around to "swirl" them. If I had the ability to do videos I would do a demo/tutorial on how to do this.

I'll also be making a mold that is a slab that you could pour and then cut 3 or 4 blanks out of to allow you a better swirl consistency.
I'll try do do some during the week and post some pics.
 

2good2burn

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PaulDoug
It seems when I mix them until they gel then the lighter color goes away. Maybe I just shouldn't touch them at all until they get close to the 'gel' stage.

Video would be fabulous, but living in the sticks, internet is only dial up. :(
 

sbell111

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I think that you are combining them and mixing them too soon. I wait until just before I think they are going to 'gel' before I combine them and then mix them. Also, you don't want to over mix them.

The only time when I combine them right away is if I'm making 'flame' blanks using upright cylinder molds (ice cube trays, pipe, whatever).
 

sbell111

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Originally posted by randyrls
Originally posted by sbell111
I did a bad, bad thing last night.

I was just about to transfer my creation to my pot when I noticed something. Something very, very bad. My beautiful PR was seeping out of my mold. AARGH!!! I had forgotted to seal the seams!!!

Oh well.
Steve; I have not done any casting but some time ago I came across this place that has reusable molds. The bottom most one on this page is 3 x 6 x 1" and holds 9 oz of resin. Just the right size for pens.

http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/group_id/540/ENVIRONMENTAL-TECH-Resin-Molds.htm

Sorry about your mess.
Don't get me wrong. I like my method, I just don't like when I do something stupid.
 
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If you are doing a 2 color swirl, then pour the amount of resin you are going to use for each color into your 2 mixing cups. Add the amount of MEKp to both, and stir, by hand or by using Grub32's drill method (I recomend the drill). Now comes the hard part, leave the resin alone for 20 minutes, unless you know that it will gel in that time, if so then leave it alone for only 15 minutes. I usually bell/dome cover my mixing cups with qt deli containers to keep the smell down. While you are waiting on the resin to time-out/thicken start preparing your colors to mix into your resin. If you know how many scoops, fingernails, popsicle sticks of pearl-ex to make your color get them ready to mix them in when your timer goes off. Since you are not using any liquid/paste pigments that inhibit or accelerate curing then you should be able to time this fairly well. After thoroughly mixing in your powders(again using Grub32's drill method), check the consistancy. If you aren't getting to the thicker than honey stage(almost molasas) then let them sit and check them every minute or so, it could take a while. When the resins start to get thicker than honey, stir them up real well to re-suspend all the pigment flakes, have your mold ready, take a mixed color cup into each hand and pour together in an overlapping stream into the mold, or pour as streams crossing each other or pour some of the first color then pour some stripes or blobs of the second color, then pour the first color again and repeat.

With PR the biggest part to getting your colors to swirl instead of mixing is to wait as long as possible before pouring it into the mold. Time is your friend until it is your enemy. You have plenty of time in the beginning, so prep everything, because when the resin starts to go it can accelerate like a race car.
 

2good2burn

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Now THAT was EXACTLY what I was hoping to find out! Thank you! I know it seems like second nature to some, and the details seem meaningless, but until you understand it or see it in person, its just hard to get.
THANK YOU!!!:)
 

the_benz

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has anyone tried making a mold using 100% silicone caulking? I checked with an engineer at work, we make the stuff, and he told me there is no reason it won't work for casting poly resin.
 

Modelmaker

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It would take forever for the silicone to cure, I believe that it's an air cure so the non-exposed portions of the mold would take longer to cure (if they do at all)
I tried using silicone caulk a long time ago (back in the late 80's) without any success and haven't tried it since, maybe the formulations changed and it cures better now.
Try it and see, what's the worst that can happen? you make a mess?
 
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There is a "formula" for using GE II or Dap Silicone caulking, glycerine, and acrylic paint, but for the time, labor and pain in the backside to get it right you could either order some silicone and make your own or get one of Kris's(Modelmaker) fine molds, and be casting before the caulking cures.
 

penmaker56

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There is a way to make molds from silicone caulk that doesn't take along time to cure. It is in the article that I wrote a couple of years ago about casting poly resin, I believe it still can be accessed on the home page.

Richard G., aka penaker56
 

the_benz

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I tried this morning to create a mold with silicone caulk, glycerin and acrylic paint. I was too thick to pour but was able to use a putty knife to spread it. within an hour it was firm to the touch. after about three hours, I removed it from the container and it is firm all the way through. It has a few small areas that did not fill smoothly, but I think I can make it work. It smells like vinegar!!
Thanks, Gregg
 
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Originally posted by penmaker56

There is a way to make molds from silicone caulk that doesn't take along time to cure. It is in the article that I wrote a couple of years ago about casting poly resin, I believe it still can be accessed on the home page.

Richard G., aka penaker56

Yes, it is still on the homepage and it is a very good and informative article.

However, I may be incorrect and quite often am, but for the cost of 4 tubes of silicone caulk, you could either pick up a 16 oz jar of Latex Mold Builder, and built a 15 layer latex glove-type mold, and a mother for it for around $10 with your handy 40% off coupon from Michaels, A.C. Moore or Hobby Lobby, and have it ready in 24 hours. Or you could order a 2.2kg kit of Oomoo 25/30 from Smooth-on, or if there is a BIG art store in your area Oomoo could be available on the shelf. The 2.2kg kit of either the Oomoo 25 or 30 runs approximatly $24. With the Oomoo 25 your mold will be ready from mix to cure in 2 hrs. With the Oomoo 30 your mold will be ready from mix to cure in about 6 hrs.

I'm sure there are many cost and time effective mold making alternatives.
 
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Originally posted by the_benz

I tried this morning to create a mold with silicone caulk, glycerin and acrylic paint. I was too thick to pour but was able to use a putty knife to spread it. within an hour it was firm to the touch. after about three hours, I removed it from the container and it is firm all the way through. It has a few small areas that did not fill smoothly, but I think I can make it work. It smells like vinegar!!
Thanks, Gregg

To avoid the voids, make a thin skin coat of the pure caulk. Let it cure then trowel on your caulk, glycerin and acrylic paint mixture and let that cure.
 

penmaker56

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Thank you Glass Scratcher, I offered the silicone caulk mold as an alternative with readily available materials, rather than hunting for true molding compounds. There are many methods for making molds for PR.

I tried the latex molder builder several years ago, and it performed rather poorly, the heat from the cure of the PR makes the mold harden, and the PR deforms,as the latex is not rigid enough on its own. The Smooth On silicones are very good, but not every art store carries them and not every area has a art store; but there is always a hardware store, Home Depot, or Lowes for caulk around for someone who does not wish to wait. The finish of the Oomoo is superior to the silicone caulk, but with the caulk, you do not need to build a support to hold the Oomoo. The last Oomoo 25 that I purchased was $30 for the small kit, while 4 tubes of acetic cure silicone caulk is approximately $21.

That is my defense, and I apologize if I have offended anyone or their methods.-RG
 

follow3

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Hey Y'all,

I have used the Oomoo and like it a lot. I would also be interested in the mixing formula for the silicone, glycerine and acrylic paint method as an alternative for when I have an idea and don't want to wait for the Oomoo to ship.

Does anyone have any instructions or recipe for the silicone, glycerine, acrylic paint method?

Oh yeah...what is glycerine?

Thanks,
Steve
 

bitshird

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Originally posted by its_virgil

I think gadget deserves some equal time. His molds are really nice (I have them)and I can recommend them...for whatever it's worth.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22665

Do a good turn daily!
Don

I've cast about 4 gallons of PR blanks in one of gadget's 4 gang 3/4 silicone molds, even put it in my oven set at 175 degrees to speed up the cure time, it's still flexible, the blanks still release easily, and as soon as I can afford it I'm going to get a 1 in mold from him, The only problem I've had is getting the mold under my vacuum bell jar, I think gadget deserves a lot of credit for coming up with his molds!! and at a great price for the amount of silicone required.
 

sbell111

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Originally posted by bitshird

Originally posted by its_virgil

I think gadget deserves some equal time. His molds are really nice (I have them)and I can recommend them...for whatever it's worth.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22665

Do a good turn daily!
Don

I've cast about 4 gallons of PR blanks in one of gadget's 4 gang 3/4 silicone molds, even put it in my oven set at 175 degrees to speed up the cure time, it's still flexible, the blanks still release easily, and as soon as I can afford it I'm going to get a 1 in mold from him, The only problem I've had is getting the mold under my vacuum bell jar, I think gadget deserves a lot of credit for coming up with his molds!! and at a great price for the amount of silicone required.
Gadget has received a lot of well deserved credit, but that's not the topic of this thread.
 

sbell111

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Originally posted by bitshird
Gadget has received a lot of well deserved credit, but that's not the topic of this thread.
My mistake, I read the topic as PR Molds, guess I need my glasses adjusted ;)
I hope this helps:
Originally posted by 2good2burn

I thought I read something somewhere that said you could use tupperware or the ziplock container (throw away kind) to pour the PR into. Can anyone confirm this? I'm looking for something that can be easily found, easily replaced, and not expensive. I'm impatient to wait for a shipment to deliver.
Thank you.
 
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stolicky

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I just made my first attempt casting PR (with coffee beans, of course) using the PVC pipe method. I waited two days and one of the three wasn't fully cured. Anyways, that question is for another topic.

However, I can say, I couldn't get the blanks out. I did not prep them in any way, other than to make sure there was noting in the pipe. So, I ended up setting TS blade to the thickness of the PVC and ripped two opposite grooved on the pipe to break it apart. That is definitely something to consider when using these as forms, rather than something that is flexible or comes apart.
 
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