First shot at stabilizing wood.

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I put a few redwood and claro walnut blanks in the Vacuum chamber and ran it at about 27 for about 1 hour. I probably could have kept it going longer but I have to sleep sometime. They are in the oven now for an hour. The blanks still wanted to float which is probably a sign that I should have gone longer. I will let you all know how they did tomorrow when I glue one up for a pen!
 
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Bigj51

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Er this does not sound like real stabilizing at all, if it was they would not be ready tomorrow.

Really? If the wood is really soft and you are using the cactus juice stabilization method then one day is plenty of time. And with professional results I might add. I often let my stuff soak much longer but have turned stuff around in a day before.
 

edstreet

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Er this does not sound like real stabilizing at all, if it was they would not be ready tomorrow.

Really? If the wood is really soft and you are using the cactus juice stabilization method then one day is plenty of time. And with professional results I might add. I often let my stuff soak much longer but have turned stuff around in a day before.

Link me the destructive testing and the stain test on this setup please.
 
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Bigj51

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Er this does not sound like real stabilizing at all, if it was they would not be ready tomorrow.

Really? If the wood is really soft and you are using the cactus juice stabilization method then one day is plenty of time. And with professional results I might add. I often let my stuff soak much longer but have turned stuff around in a day before.

Link me the destructive testing and the stain test on this setup please.

The seller of cactus juice (Curtis otherwise known on here as Mesquite Man) is a member here. I'm sure he could get you whatever test results as he has done a bunch of testing. I have been turning stabilized pen blanks for at least 10 years and the quality of a cactus juice stabilized blank is just as good as a stabilized blank you would by from another vendor. I turn ALOT of buckeye burl and various spalted burls which in stabilized are incredibly light, soft and just flat out won't work without stabilization. After stabilizing and heat curing the cactus juice blanks they are hard as a rock and much much much denser. I use Mesquite Man's juice, but have my own vacuum chamber and a really good vacuum pump.
 

Bigj51

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I am using cactus juice and a vacuum chamber...

Typically after running the vacuum pump for 1-2 hours I release the vacuum and let the wood soak for anywhere from 1-24 hours. Just depends on how hard the wood is. The softer woods don't need much soak time, but some of the harder maples and mesquites I let go over night.
 

crabcreekind

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Well, i tried these exact 2 types of blanks when i first stabilized a couple weeks ago. Apparently redwood burl down stabilize worth a crap. and I didnt get the walnut the take any resin. but Just keep trying. i got them to soak up a bunch of resin the second time with some spalted quilted maple.
 

Bigj51

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Well, i tried these exact 2 types of blanks when i first stabilized a couple weeks ago. Apparently redwood burl down stabilize worth a crap. and I didnt get the walnut the take any resin. but Just keep trying. i got them to soak up a bunch of resin the second time with some spalted quilted maple.

I have heard people have alot of trouble with redwood. I personally don't use it. My personal favorites that I can attest to working are: buckeye burl, spalted maple burl, box elder, amboyna burl, oak burl & mesquite.
 

alamocdc

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Okay, I have to weigh in here. This may run a little long so I'll apologize in advance. Not only have I been vacuum stabilizing since about 2006, I have tried just about everything the hobbiest could get his hands on. I've used about everything from polyurethane to dissolved plexiglass (the most successful of all of them). But I was never 100% satisfied with the result. I have also sent spalted woods AND Redwood burl to the professionals (River Ridge) and they do an excellent job. However, the Redwood came back nearly as light as it left showing little to no penetration.

Now for the fun part. I spent a few hours visiting with Curtis in his shop last week and most of what we talked about was his stabilizing system and product. I brought up the Redwood example and he pulled out his record book. Yes, he had successfully stabilized Redwood burl. Every blank gained no less than 4 times their weight with most gaining between 6 and 8 times (IIRC). It was enough to impress me, whatever the gain. In fact, I came home with one and can't wait to turn it.

I don't need to see destructive testing and the stain test results to know that something I've held in my hand not only works, it works well. And everyone who is using CJ knows how good it is. Oh, and this includes at least one company that "professionally" stabilizes knife scales with it!

So, Mike, ignore the nay sayers and keep trying. But my advice would be to follow Curtis' instructions to the letter. I have seen it work first hand and it is what I will begin using very soon. One more thing, for what it is worth. Stabilizing with CJ will still cost about the same per blank as sending them off. But the turn around is so very much faster, and that makes it worth it to me. Especially since I already have most of what I need.
 
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Well, i tried these exact 2 types of blanks when i first stabilized a couple weeks ago. Apparently redwood burl down stabilize worth a crap. and I didnt get the walnut the take any resin. but Just keep trying. i got them to soak up a bunch of resin the second time with some spalted quilted maple.

I have some spalted maple that is next on the list. I will give that a try tonight. That is very good information about these 2 woods maybe I just plain had bad luck of choice on my first try. I will cut and drill these tonight and see what I have!
 
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Okay, I have to weigh in here. This may run a little long so I'll apologize in advance. Not only have I been vacuum stabilizing since about 2006, I have tried just about everything the hobbiest could get his hands on. I've used about everything from polyurethane to dissolved plexiglass (the most successful of all of them). But I was never 100% satisfied with the result. I have also sent spalted woods AND Redwood burl to the professionals (River Ridge) and they do an excellent job. However, the Redwood came back nearly as light as it left showing little to no penetration.

Now for the fun part. I spent a few hours visiting with Curtis in his shop last week and most of what we talked about was his stabilizing system and product. I brought up the Redwood example and he pulled out his record book. Yes, he had successfully stabilized Redwood burl. Every blank gained no less than 4 times their weight with most gaining between 6 and 8 times (IIRC). It was enough to impress me, whatever the gain. In fact, I came home with one and can't wait to turn it.

I don't need to see destructive testing and the stain test results to know that something I've held in my hand not only works, it works well. And everyone who is using CJ knows how good it is. Oh, and this includes at least one company that "professionally" stabilizes knife scales with it!

So, Mike, ignore the nay sayers and keep trying. But my advice would be to follow Curtis' instructions to the letter. I have seen it work first hand and it is what I will begin using very soon. One more thing, for what it is worth. Stabilizing with CJ will still cost about the same per blank as sending them off. But the turn around is so very much faster, and that makes it worth it to me. Especially since I already have most of what I need.

This is only my first try at this and I am not going to get discouraged at all. I will give the redwood another try and let it go much longer the next time. I also didn't let things sit much longer than 10 minutes after it finished and I know that Curtis says wait longer but my excitement was too great ;>) to wait. I really love making pens and I want to start making some really special ones!
 

edstreet

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Okay, I have to weigh in here. This may run a little long so I'll apologize in advance. Not only have I been vacuum stabilizing since about 2006, I have tried just about everything the hobbiest could get his hands on. I've used about everything from polyurethane to dissolved plexiglass (the most successful of all of them). But I was never 100% satisfied with the result. I have also sent spalted woods AND Redwood burl to the professionals (River Ridge) and they do an excellent job. However, the Redwood came back nearly as light as it left showing little to no penetration.

Now for the fun part. I spent a few hours visiting with Curtis in his shop last week and most of what we talked about was his stabilizing system and product. I brought up the Redwood example and he pulled out his record book. Yes, he had successfully stabilized Redwood burl. Every blank gained no less than 4 times their weight with most gaining between 6 and 8 times (IIRC). It was enough to impress me, whatever the gain. In fact, I came home with one and can't wait to turn it.

I don't need to see destructive testing and the stain test results to know that something I've held in my hand not only works, it works well. And everyone who is using CJ knows how good it is. Oh, and this includes at least one company that "professionally" stabilizes knife scales with it!

So, Mike, ignore the nay sayers and keep trying. But my advice would be to follow Curtis' instructions to the letter. I have seen it work first hand and it is what I will begin using very soon. One more thing, for what it is worth. Stabilizing with CJ will still cost about the same per blank as sending them off. But the turn around is so very much faster, and that makes it worth it to me. Especially since I already have most of what I need.

First I have seen zero on this even after multiple times asking. I am not nay saying either, I am just asking for proof and sadly you having something in your hands and swearing by it does not show credibility nor credentials or proof of concept. Consider me to be highly skeptical.

After all 1 test is equal to 1,000 expert opinions.

Ede
 

sbell111

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First I have seen zero on this even after multiple times asking. I am not nay saying either, I am just asking for proof and sadly you having something in your hands and swearing by it does not show credibility nor credentials or proof of concept. Consider me to be highly skeptical.

After all 1 test is equal to 1,000 expert opinions.

Ede
Good grief. Do a forum search and you will find your proof. It's not our responsibility to do a search for you.
 

KenV

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Ed--

I have not found published standards for these processes. Neither the Forest Products Lab, who started the whole thing, nor any of the standards organizations have published.

There are a number of "trades" that are using "stabalized" or resin injected materials. Pens, reel seats, and knife handles come to mind.

Many consider processes and outcome info as trade secrets.

While antecdotal information is not analytical testing, in sufficient accumulation, it can provide some statistical validity and useful informatiom for choices.
 

edstreet

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Page 2 thread 4th from the top in the casting and stabilization forum!
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f43/can-you-stabilize-blanks-without-vacuum-test-results-91355/
Will give info with and with out, Then go to this web site for more info
Welcome to TurnTex Woodworks!

Took me all of about 35 secs to find it in the casting and stabilization forum, with out the search function.
:clown:

That was a test to find out which procedure yielded the better saturation no where do they mention or even remotely address what I was asking and yes I have read that one months ago.
 

sbell111

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What exactly do you want? You mentioned 'destructive' testing and a 'stain' test.

Curtis has posted pics of blanks that he stabilized with his system cut open and under black light so you could clearly see that the blanks were stabilized all the way through. Similar pictures have been posted which show that colorants can be added to the goo and that the colorant ends up all the way in the blanks.

What more, exactly, are you insisting on?
 

Justturnin

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I use the Juice and I love it. There are some folks on here that I have found impossible to please so it is best to ignore. I posted in a thread a while back with my CJ process. I know everyone does it different and you will too but its a starting point. Much of what I do is advise from others and tricks I have picked up along the way. I have not had luck with Redwood but I spoke with Curtis about it a while back and am going to try something new. If it works I will post it.

Here is that post on my process.


I typed this out a few days ago but I lost power due to a storm and lost it before I could post. I will try it one more time. Here is my process, start to finish on stabilizing blanks.

There are about 1000 ways to skin this cat but this is how I do it.

1. Cut my blanks 1"sq x 5.25 (Oversized so I can trim them down to 7/8")
2. Allow them to dry to EMC (equilibrium moisture content). If the blanks are wet I soak in DNA. The DNA will draw the moisture out of the blank and allow it to dry faster, remove from DNA and wrap in black&white newspaper. Stack them to the side and forget about them for a few weeks. After about two weeks remove them from the paper and stack them back up. From there once the blanks hit EMC I toss them in a Toaster over at about 175* for at least 24 hours to make sure they are bone dry.
3. Pull the blanks out and throw them in a ziploc (tip from Curtis) if the bag fogs they are not dry enough. If they do not fog it will minimize the ambient moisture they can reabsorb while cooling. Don't put a hot blank in the juice it will set up on you.
4. Stack in chamber Cover the blanks w/ Resin, I typically add about .75" over. If it sucks it down below the blank line release the vacuum and add a little more. You will get the feel for it.
5. Apply vacuum, watch it so it does not foam over into the lines. Pull the strongest vacuum you can. I use the cheap HF pump and it is ok but it does not pull as far down as it should. One day I will get a better pump.
6. Let the vacuum pump run until you have "Champagne" bubbles.
7. I have a valve at the female connector to my pump (my pump has a male coming off of it). I close it and remove the female connection from the vacuum pump while the pump is running, I them power off the pump.
8. I will let the vacuum hold for a bit until any bubbling stops then I will release the vacuum from the chamber.
9. If you would like you can let them sit about 30 mins and run it through the vacuum again, I have and do not really find a benefit in doing that.
10. Remove the blanks into a bowl to allow them to drain for about 30 mins.
11. Wrap them in foil as Curtis shows in the vids. Place them on a cookie sheet or something or the resin will get on the elements and smoke you out if it does not catch fire.
12. Cook at about 200 for at least 1 hour. Check them as Curtis said above, BE FAST. If there is liquid close it up and keep on cookin'
13. Once I see no liquid resin I kick the oven up to about 250 for about 10 mins to be sure. This will not hurt anything and it makes me feel better whether it helps or not.
14. Pull them out and clean them up and happy turnin. One thing you will notice is the blanks do not put off curlies anymore and are just plain dusty. Small price to pay for super stable blanks.


Final note. I want to reemphasize the importance of your blanks being dry. Every drop of moisture in your blank is a drop of resin that cannot go into the blank. Also, as you cook the blanks that drop of moisture is going to turn into steam and cook out. When it cooks out that steam will push resin out of the blank. Ever pull your blanks out and there is just a thick nasty crust all over? That is likely because they were still too wet. You will almost always have some crust but it should not be thick and cover the blank all the way around.

Much of this advise is what Curtis and others have shared and some that I learned on my own.

Here is a pic of some Box Elder Burl I just did. These are straight out of the foil. You can see a little crust but not a lot. These were dry when they went in the juice. I have done some and they came out and I could not even see the wood there was so much crust.

2012-07-19%252013.43.26-1.jpg


Hope this helps.
 

alamocdc

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I suppose you could say that holding two pieces of stabilized Redwood burl in my hands and easily being able to tell the difference between the light weight "Professionally" stabilized piece and the heavy (by Redwood standards) one done with CJ is opinion. You might even be able to say that the records of blank weight before and after stabilization was opinion (if you have a vivid imagination). But I said what I meant, and I meant what I said. And based on my experience, not opinion, blanks stabilized with CJ are as good, if not better, than what I've paid for commercially.

Oh, and if you want color with it, the color penetration is actually BETTER than what I've seen commercially produced. But no one is asking anyone to believe my lying eyes. Just buy some stabilized blanks from Curtis and see for yourself.
 

Tim'sTurnings

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I put a few redwood and claro walnut blanks in the Vacuum chamber and ran it at about 27 for about 1 hour. I probably could have kept it going longer but I have to sleep sometime. They are in the oven now for an hour. The blanks still wanted to float which is probably a sign that I should have gone longer. I will let you all know how they did tomorrow when I glue one up for a pen!

Mike, you say you had your blanks in the vacuum chamber with a vacuum of 27 on the vacuum scale. From what I have read you need 29-30 in vacuum. Just a thought but do you have enough vacuum to do the job? Just my observation and question. That may not be enough difference in vacuum to make a difference but I think I read you need at least 29 on the vac scale. Good luck.
 

Justturnin

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I put a few redwood and claro walnut blanks in the Vacuum chamber and ran it at about 27 for about 1 hour. I probably could have kept it going longer but I have to sleep sometime. They are in the oven now for an hour. The blanks still wanted to float which is probably a sign that I should have gone longer. I will let you all know how they did tomorrow when I glue one up for a pen!

Mike, you say you had your blanks in the vacuum chamber with a vacuum of 27 on the vacuum scale. From what I have read you need 29-30 in vacuum. Just a thought but do you have enough vacuum to do the job? Just my observation and question. That may not be enough difference in vacuum to make a difference but I think I read you need at least 29 on the vac scale. Good luck.


A lot has to do with Elevation. I pull about 28.5 on average at about 125' elevation but I should in theory be hitting 29. The OP is about 550' so his vacuum will be less.
 
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From what I have read in these forums and especially from Curtis is what you have said for sure but, the gauge is not a new gauge but the vacuum pump is new. The blanks boiled like crazy and had mostly stopped. I have 2 other forms of vacuum that I can try and this is my first attempt so I am very new and learning that is for sure. I have an extra gauge too I think and can try that also. I will keep experimenting with it and keep posting as I make progress. I thank all of you for the help. I should also let things soak longer too and will now do that. I am going to try to stabilize some spalted maple tonight and see how that goes.
 

Justturnin

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From what I have read in these forums and especially from Curtis is what you have said for sure but, the gauge is not a new gauge but the vacuum pump is new. The blanks boiled like crazy and had mostly stopped. I have 2 other forms of vacuum that I can try and this is my first attempt so I am very new and learning that is for sure. I have an extra gauge too I think and can try that also. I will keep experimenting with it and keep posting as I make progress. I thank all of you for the help. I should also let things soak longer too and will now do that. I am going to try to stabilize some spalted maple tonight and see how that goes.


My maple usually triples in weight out of the juice.
 
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From what I have read in these forums and especially from Curtis is what you have said for sure but, the gauge is not a new gauge but the vacuum pump is new. The blanks boiled like crazy and had mostly stopped. I have 2 other forms of vacuum that I can try and this is my first attempt so I am very new and learning that is for sure. I have an extra gauge too I think and can try that also. I will keep experimenting with it and keep posting as I make progress. I thank all of you for the help. I should also let things soak longer too and will now do that. I am going to try to stabilize some spalted maple tonight and see how that goes.


My maple usually triples in weight out of the juice.

When I weighed the redwood there was not much difference in before and after. I just need to keep at it and I will learn this like all other things.
 

oneptbuk

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Page 2 thread 4th from the top in the casting and stabilization forum!
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f43/can-you-stabilize-blanks-without-vacuum-test-results-91355/
Will give info with and with out, Then go to this web site for more info
Welcome to TurnTex Woodworks!

Took me all of about 35 secs to find it in the casting and stabilization forum, with out the search function.
:clown:

That was a test to find out which procedure yielded the better saturation no where do they mention or even remotely address what I was asking and yes I have read that one months ago.

Ed, with all due respect, this isn't rocket science. If the home spun versions of using CJ allow the user to turn, sand, and finish the wood and retain the visual appeal of the blank, and hold up over time as part of a pen, then who cares about the detailed chemistry/physics/biology going on in the background? Just sayin'.....
 
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I use the Juice and I love it. There are some folks on here that I have found impossible to please so it is best to ignore. I posted in a thread a while back with my CJ process. I know everyone does it different and you will too but its a starting point. Much of what I do is advise from others and tricks I have picked up along the way. I have not had luck with Redwood but I spoke with Curtis about it a while back and am going to try something new. If it works I will post it.

Here is that post on my process.


I typed this out a few days ago but I lost power due to a storm and lost it before I could post. I will try it one more time. Here is my process, start to finish on stabilizing blanks.

There are about 1000 ways to skin this cat but this is how I do it.

1. Cut my blanks 1"sq x 5.25 (Oversized so I can trim them down to 7/8")
2. Allow them to dry to EMC (equilibrium moisture content). If the blanks are wet I soak in DNA. The DNA will draw the moisture out of the blank and allow it to dry faster, remove from DNA and wrap in black&white newspaper. Stack them to the side and forget about them for a few weeks. After about two weeks remove them from the paper and stack them back up. From there once the blanks hit EMC I toss them in a Toaster over at about 175* for at least 24 hours to make sure they are bone dry.
3. Pull the blanks out and throw them in a ziploc (tip from Curtis) if the bag fogs they are not dry enough. If they do not fog it will minimize the ambient moisture they can reabsorb while cooling. Don't put a hot blank in the juice it will set up on you.
4. Stack in chamber Cover the blanks w/ Resin, I typically add about .75" over. If it sucks it down below the blank line release the vacuum and add a little more. You will get the feel for it.
5. Apply vacuum, watch it so it does not foam over into the lines. Pull the strongest vacuum you can. I use the cheap HF pump and it is ok but it does not pull as far down as it should. One day I will get a better pump.
6. Let the vacuum pump run until you have "Champagne" bubbles.
7. I have a valve at the female connector to my pump (my pump has a male coming off of it). I close it and remove the female connection from the vacuum pump while the pump is running, I them power off the pump.
8. I will let the vacuum hold for a bit until any bubbling stops then I will release the vacuum from the chamber.
9. If you would like you can let them sit about 30 mins and run it through the vacuum again, I have and do not really find a benefit in doing that.
10. Remove the blanks into a bowl to allow them to drain for about 30 mins.
11. Wrap them in foil as Curtis shows in the vids. Place them on a cookie sheet or something or the resin will get on the elements and smoke you out if it does not catch fire.
12. Cook at about 200 for at least 1 hour. Check them as Curtis said above, BE FAST. If there is liquid close it up and keep on cookin'
13. Once I see no liquid resin I kick the oven up to about 250 for about 10 mins to be sure. This will not hurt anything and it makes me feel better whether it helps or not.
14. Pull them out and clean them up and happy turnin. One thing you will notice is the blanks do not put off curlies anymore and are just plain dusty. Small price to pay for super stable blanks.


Final note. I want to reemphasize the importance of your blanks being dry. Every drop of moisture in your blank is a drop of resin that cannot go into the blank. Also, as you cook the blanks that drop of moisture is going to turn into steam and cook out. When it cooks out that steam will push resin out of the blank. Ever pull your blanks out and there is just a thick nasty crust all over? That is likely because they were still too wet. You will almost always have some crust but it should not be thick and cover the blank all the way around.

Much of this advise is what Curtis and others have shared and some that I learned on my own.

Here is a pic of some Box Elder Burl I just did. These are straight out of the foil. You can see a little crust but not a lot. These were dry when they went in the juice. I have done some and they came out and I could not even see the wood there was so much crust.

2012-07-19%252013.43.26-1.jpg


Hope this helps.

That is very much like my blanks look? Maybe I am just fine. I will know for sure tonight when I drill and put tubes in one! I cannot wait to see. I will also put some more in and let it run on Vacuum a lot longer tonight. I was just down to Champagne bubbles last night though. When I took the vacuum off it didn't draw much in though?

Mike
 

MesquiteMan

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And when Chris says dry, that does not mean shop dry. That means OVEN dry. A blank that has been sitting in your attic for 25 years will still have moisture in it equal to the Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC) for your given area. This is based on humidity and varies by area. It seems, from looking at a lot of EMC charts, that an average EMC for most areas is around 10%. That means that, without artificial means, your blanks will never be drier than EMC or 10% on average.

Best practice is to place the blanks in your cure oven at the same cure temp for 24 hours. This should get them to 0% moisture or oven dry. You don't have to go to this extra step but if you want the best results, it is advised. If you dry more blanks than you can do at one time, store them in a closed ziplock bag as soon as you take them out. This will keep them for picking up moisture from the air as they dry.

I recently did some testing with a bunch of spalted pecan blanks that had been cut and dried for a year. Based on my $400 moisture meter, they were at 11%. I weighed the blanks and then put them in my oven for 24 hours until they stopped loosing weight. I then weighed them again and did the math. The lost 16% of their weight from this drying cycle. I then allowed some of the blanks to sit on my work bench, unprotected. After 3 days, according to my meter, they were back up to 6%. After 1 week, they were back up to 11%.

Of course, don't try to stabilize them when they are still hot!
 

Justturnin

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That is very much like my blanks look? Maybe I am just fine. I will know for sure tonight when I drill and put tubes in one! I cannot wait to see. I will also put some more in and let it run on Vacuum a lot longer tonight. I was just down to Champagne bubbles last night though. When I took the vacuum off it didn't draw much in though?

Mike


I am running a piece of redwood through right now. I ran a vacuum until I got the champagne bubbles and weighed it. Starting was 0.95oz and after the vacuum it was a minimal increase of 1.05oz. I placed it under 80psi (Curtis suggestion) for 2 hours and it now weighs 1.65oz. I had to pull it out because I need my pot for a cast but I will put it back in and keep them in over night and let you know what I find. I still have a bit of testing to do but this seems promising. My next test will be 2 blanks. Both through the vacuum and one will just be left to soak while the other is under pressure to see if there is a difference.
 
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So after you did the vacuum you did a pressure? I can try that. I did have some increase in weight but it was not more than .1 oz but it was that much. So I may be just fine? Now I am excited to get home and drill the blank and see.
 

Justturnin

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What temp do you dry them at? The lowest temp on the oven?

I dry them for 24 hours at about 200*

So after you did the vacuum you did a pressure? I can try that. I did have some increase in weight but it was not more than .1 oz but it was that much. So I may be just fine? Now I am excited to get home and drill the blank and see.

Yes straight to pressure from the vacuum. In just 2 hours under 80 PSI I went from a 0.10oz increase to 0.70oz so the blank has almost doubled in weight under pressure.
 
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my pressure chamber should be here today or tomorrow then I can try that but my chamber is only good for maybe 50 lbs. It is however good to hear that I won't see a doubling or more in weight just by using the vacuum. Have you ever just put one under pressure? If so how much gain did you get. Now you just moved the blanks into a dish of some sort with the Cactus Juice and put that under pressure right?
 

Justturnin

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my pressure chamber should be here today or tomorrow then I can try that but my chamber is only good for maybe 50 lbs. It is however good to hear that I won't see a doubling or more in weight just by using the vacuum. Have you ever just put one under pressure? If so how much gain did you get. Now you just moved the blanks into a dish of some sort with the Cactus Juice and put that under pressure right?

I have had blanks triple in weight just under vacuum. This is my first time using pressure and that was only to try it out on Redwood. The only woods I have found that do not at least double are blanks that did not really need to be stabilized and Conifers (Redwood, Cedar, Junipers) but with putting them under pressure I can see a benefit. I also had a piece of solid pecan that went from raw weight of 4.9oz to vacuum weight of 6.45 to pressure weight of 6.9oz. Curtis has done tests using pressure and some woods benefit and some don't. I guess its a matter are figuring them all out.

50lbs is better than nothing and worth a shot. I did 80 because my pot can. You may find 50 is just a good and open the doors for others with smaller pots to do this too.
 
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no I am talking about my pressure pot that I got from Harbor Freight. I should be seeing that very soon. I don't see any way to put pressure on the Vacuum Chamber as you would need to try to hold the top on and I don't think it would handle much pressure even then!

I am curious though did the redwood still float after the vacuum stage?
 
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Justturnin

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no I am talking about my pressure pot that I got from Harbor Freight. I should be seeing that very soon. I don't see any way to put pressure on the Vacuum Chamber as you would need to try to hold the top on and I don't think it would handle much pressure even then!

I am curious though did the redwood still float after the vacuum stage?



Dang you caught that fast. I caught my mistake and edited my post. Lots of woods still float but at the same time they take significant gain as well. The piece of pecan was solid and heavy. It gained 2oz and still floated.
 

MesquiteMan

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Just because a piece of wood still floats does not mean it is not thoroughly stabilized. Woods with a low specific gravity tend to float even when fully impregnated.
 
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MesquiteMan

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However, Redwood is not going to do as well as other woods. I just did a complete test with 6 blanks of Redwood and will post the results later on. There is test results on vac vs pressure on my website.
 
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