Chiyogami blank

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Hal9000

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Mar 4, 2015
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I have had a few tries at doing these now, fixing problems along the way and I thought when I had cast this one, I had a good 'un. After it was turned and polished, I noticed it had this white bloom at the end so I scratched my head a bit...then a bit more... All I can think of is that some dirty water from wet sanding has leaked into the end but this has not happened with my previous attempts. If that is what is happening, can anyone advise me how to avoid it?
 

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brownsfn2

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Both suggestions are good. I have dry sanded with MM before and it works just fine. Just take the RPMs down low. and remove the pad often to keep from building heat.
 

plantman

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Sand by hand with the grain and the lathe off. If you don't want the mess of CA on the ends or on your fingers, use fingernail polish hardener to seal the ends. Jim S
 

edstreet

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Aug 12, 2007
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No longer confused....
Some fail here.

For starters doing the end 'seal' with CA will still allow hydrostatic exchange. It might seep at a slower rate but your pressure will be also be changed and could damage the blank over time.

The paper's moisture content will change dynamically, even with the ends 'sealed' it can shift from one part of the paper to another part.

If this was moisture on the paper, wicked from the ends as previous posters are leading you to believe then you would see a logarithmic intake on one or both (likely both) ends.

If you look really really close you can see if this is moisture with in the casting media itself. It's also worthy of note to see the linear banding in the bloom cloud. It does appear to be IN the resin and not at the END of the resin. The other thing of note is wicking would produce bubbles from the paper pulling loose from the resin.
 

Hal9000

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Mar 4, 2015
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I left the blank in a warm place overnight and the mark has completely gone! It must have evaporated out the end. I'm going to try sealing the ends with CA and re-polish. Thanks for the input guys.
 
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