Homemade Carbide Handle

[qquake]

I bought some 15mm carbide radius cutters from Arizona Carbide a while back, and finally got around to making a handle. I used a 12" length of mild 1/2" square steel. I marked it, drilled it, and tapped it with an 8-32 tap. For the notch, I cut a slot with a hacksaw a little deeper than the cutter is thick. Then used a combination of my 1" belt sander and a coarse file to cut the notch. I had to put a chamfer in the tapped hole with a countersink, so the screw would tighten all the way.

 

[Skie_M]

To give yourself just a TINY bit more leeway in using that tool ... I'ld go back and grind a steep bevel under the front of the carbide bit. Not so far back that it hits the screw, mind you ... just 7 - 12 degrees of relief, so that you can approach your blank carbide first, rather than heel of that step first.

 

[qquake]

I still need to turn a wood handle for it, but for now I wrapped the end with friction tape. It actually works! I used it to turn two brittle blanks. It's not exactly precision, but I'm happy with it.

 

[qquake]

To give yourself just a TINY bit more leeway in using that tool ... I'ld go back and grind a steep bevel under the front of the carbide bit. Not so far back that it hits the screw, mind you ... just 7 - 12 degrees of relief, so that you can approach your blank carbide first, rather than heel of that step first.

Good idea. I'll do that.

 

[Skie_M]

Easiest way to fit a square peg in a round tool handle .... make a square hole!

Set up table saw with a dado stack 1/64th larger than your steel bar ... cut half the depth in one half of your handle blank, and half in the other half ... stop the cut before going all the way through the handle blanks ... you want what is called a "blind dado". Glue them together to form a square hole. Use wax paper over a scrap section of steel bar to prevent it from sticking to your wood glue in order to give proper registry for the square hole - make sure the end of the steel bar scrap stock sticking out has been center drilled!

Once the glue has set up, (DO NOT use gorilla glue ... the wax paper will never come out!) turn it round on your lathe (use center hole in the scrap of steel bar to keep things steady in the tailstock end, chuck the other end up in your chuck jaws ... when ready, just part it off and finish sanding/finishing by hand). Turn your desired handle profile, the tenon for your ferrule, sand, seal, and finish ... then go back and part the back of the handle off. Use caution when determining you length while parting it off, you don't want to cut into your tool's tang hole!

Knock the scrap steel bar out of your tool handle and securely epoxy the real tool in place ... don't forget to take a cutting wheel to the tang that will be in the handle, to give some nice sized notches for the epoxy to really grab on to (perhaps 1/4 inch deep here and there down the tang length). Use a 24 hour setting epoxy for best strength, I think ...


Now, keep in mind ... I invented the "ventilated carbide tipped tool handle". Please don't copy my terrible mistake!

 

[magpens]

Thanks, Jim, for the detailed set of photos. . Nice work. . Did you buy the screw from AC also

 

[qquake]

Thanks, Jim, for the detailed set of photos. . Nice work. . Did you buy the screw from AC also

No, the cutters from AC come with screws.

 

[qquake]

It's been a long time since I've turned a spindle. Certainly a lot different than turning a 3/4" pen blank. I used a 2" x 2" piece of poplar. It's rough, but I'm happy with it. I think I'm going to stain it to make it darker, then put an oil finish on it. I still have to figure out a ferrule for the front.