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Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


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Old 06-08-2015, 01:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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MSDS = Material Safety Data Sheet.

Looks like this.










The section we are interested in is here in section 2.



...





60% 1,1,1,2-Tetrafouorethane
40% N-Hexane.

1,1,1,2-Tetrafouorethane...
Quote:
1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane, R-134a, Forane 134a, Genetron 134a, Florasol 134a, Suva 134a or HFC-134a, also known as norflurane (INN), is a haloalkane refrigerant with thermodynamic properties similar to R-12 (dichlorodifluoromethane) but with insignificant ozone depletion potential.

Other uses include plastic foam blowing, as a cleaning solvent, a propellant for the delivery of pharmaceuticals (e.g. bronchodilators), wine cork removers, gas dusters and in air driers for removing the moisture from compressed air.


As for Hexane...

Quote:
Hexane is an organic compound made of carbon and hydrogen that is most commonly isolated as a byproduct of petroleum and crude oil refinement. At room temperature it is an odorless, colorless liquid, and it has many uses in industry. It is a very popular solvent,
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Interesting... My first thought was that you were getting moisture under the finish during wet sanding. I had this issue on my first few pens, and it led to the same white spots in your photos. The fix was simply dipping each end of the blank onto a paper towel saturated with some thin CA to seal up the ends. Since I started doing this, my CA finishes came out perfect.
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edstreet View Post
NCF, sat city is non-acetone and in the 'good' class. All it takes is to pull the MSDS and find out.

Accelerator that causes white spots due to excessive use agents that attract moisture. GOOD accelerator does *NOT* exhibit this behavior. When using the GOOD accelerators you can drizzle the CA into a cup of the liquid and it will be clear.
Thank you again. I had not even thought to check out the MSDS.


Quote:
Originally Posted by csr67 View Post
Interesting... My first thought was that you were getting moisture under the finish during wet sanding. I had this issue on my first few pens, and it led to the same white spots in your photos. The fix was simply dipping each end of the blank onto a paper towel saturated with some thin CA to seal up the ends. Since I started doing this, my CA finishes came out perfect.

I wasn't doing the ends at first until I had seen a post on here and was told how to do it. Now I try to remember to do it each time!
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Old 06-12-2015, 01:04 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfeman46 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edstreet View Post
NCF, sat city is non-acetone and in the 'good' class. All it takes is to pull the MSDS and find out.

Accelerator that causes white spots due to excessive use agents that attract moisture. GOOD accelerator does *NOT* exhibit this behavior. When using the GOOD accelerators you can drizzle the CA into a cup of the liquid and it will be clear.
Thank you again. I had not even thought to check out the MSDS.


Quote:
Originally Posted by csr67 View Post
Interesting... My first thought was that you were getting moisture under the finish during wet sanding. I had this issue on my first few pens, and it led to the same white spots in your photos. The fix was simply dipping each end of the blank onto a paper towel saturated with some thin CA to seal up the ends. Since I started doing this, my CA finishes came out perfect.

I wasn't doing the ends at first until I had seen a post on here and was told how to do it. Now I try to remember to do it each time!
I don't use a accelerator when I am doing a finish ........................
I rather let it dry on its own, I have had allot better first time attempts on putting on a CA finish if I don't use a accelerator.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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That doesn't look like blush (spots from moisture) to me. I suspect it's sanding dust trapped in the open grain. When putting a CA finish on an open-grained wood, such as walnut, you need to fill the grain first. That can be done using sanding sealer, with a sawdust/CA slurry, or just by building up the finish high enough that the grain is full before you begin sanding.

I hope that helps,
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Old 06-13-2015, 09:55 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Sylvanite View Post
That doesn't look like blush (spots from moisture) to me. I suspect it's sanding dust trapped in the open grain. When putting a CA finish on an open-grained wood, such as walnut, you need to fill the grain first. That can be done using sanding sealer, with a sawdust/CA slurry, or just by building up the finish high enough that the grain is full before you begin sanding.

I hope that helps,
Eric
I think Eric might be onto it here, the dust sticking in the grooves may be from wiping it while the blank is turning.
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:26 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csr67 View Post
Interesting... My first thought was that you were getting moisture under the finish during wet sanding. I had this issue on my first few pens, and it led to the same white spots in your photos. The fix was simply dipping each end of the blank onto a paper towel saturated with some thin CA to seal up the ends. Since I started doing this, my CA finishes came out perfect.

I also practice this technique and once every 7 or 8 barrels, I will get some clouding and have to start over again. I am now blotting excess moisture from my MM, and also hitting it with another dab of thin CA before wet sanding. So I CA the ends while turning, then again, before wet sanding. I also make sure the barrel edges (90 degrees points) are CA'd.

I don't know if it will get me to 10 of 10 "perfect", but worth a try (for me)..
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:39 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Respectfully, IMHO, you are over sanding - anything above 600 in preparation for CA finish is overkill and it may be contributing to your problem. Personally on walnut, you can stop at 400, again IMHO.

Also, it's OK to wipe with a paper towel while the blank is spinning, but then shut the lathe off and wipe in the direction of the grain with the lathe off. Wipe until you cannot see color on a white paper towel. This works really well with walnut or other dark woods.

The above works for me, but if I have a blank that is really expensive, really porous, and I really want to make sure it is ready for the CA, I wipe it down with acetone before the first coat of CA. I don't do that very often, I usually just do the dry wipe with a white paper towel in the direction of the grain.
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Old 06-15-2015, 02:33 AM   #19 (permalink)
 
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[quote=79spitfire;1774891]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylvanite View Post
I think Eric might be onto it here, the dust sticking in the grooves may be from wiping it while the blank is turning.
After sanding I usually hit the blank with a bit of compressed air to get the dust out of the grain—then next coat of finish.
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