Tung Oil Finish Seminar

[vtgaryw]

We have a new hardwood/millwork shop here in northern VT. They invited the management team from Sutherland Welles to hold a seminar last night. Very informative.

It turns out they're actually headquartered here in Vermont, about an hour away from here.

I learned a ton about tung oil finishes. I've used a lot of tung oil in the past, but not all tung oil is created equal. From everything I've ever read, Sutherland Welles is the best by far. Their formulations only use tung oil, a lot of other suppliers sneak in linseed oil and soy oils.

Their one product of interest to turners (not necessarily for pens) is called
"Millies All-Purpose Penetrating Tung Oil." A lot of turners even use it to pre-treat green wood as it dries in a paper bag, it acts a lot like PEG.

The nice thing about all of Sutherland Welles finishes is their low or non-existance of toxins. When dry they're all food safe. They are not classified hazardous for shipping purposes.

Their support is fantastic, as attested to by a number of the several dozen people who turned out for the seminar.

The only downside to their product is the price. Their products are quite a bit more than most of their competitors, but on the other hand they get almost twice the coverage.

If you do a lot of woodworking other than pens, or turns bowls and the like, I'd suggest you check out their stuff:

Polymerized Tung Oil from Sutherland Welles, Ltd ? Tung Oil Finishes for Wood Finishing

-Gary

 

[mark james]

Thanks Gary, I found this interesting.

 

[magpens]

Is Tung Oil not appropriate for pens ? ... I see it on a fishing rod handle on the first page of that link you posted.

 

[vtgaryw]

Good question. I've only ever used tung oils (or other oils for that matter) on projects where it can be re-applied as time goes on. It definitely leaves a water repellent surface, but it's not that hard.

I may try it on a pen and just keep the pen around for a year and see how it does.

Gary

 

[Souths1der]

I use Tung Oil on picture frames. On that scale it needs a day between coats. Never tried it on pens, maybe the method of applying it on the lathe and the heat buildup takes that day dry time out of the equation. Maybe I'll give it a try.

 

[Wildman]

Think if want to use Tung oil as a wood finish should look at less expensive products than Sutherland Wells. If want to try Tung oil on a pen and stay green check out 8 ounce size + citrus solvent at Milk Paints or other brands.

Millie's All Purpose Penetrating Tung oil

http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/pdf/MDS/MILLIES/MILLIES2012.pdf

Drying oils like Linseed, Tung, and Walnut oil do not penetrate wood cells/grain very deeply without addition of a solvent. Pure Tung oil will provide the best protection if apply enough coats usually four. So adding mineral spirits, naphtha, or citrus solvent will increase penetration and shorten drying times.

Russ like Tung oil but look for less expensive product than Sutherland Wells.

Russ's Corner: A WoodCentral Archive

This site explain difference between pure Tung oil and Oil Varnish/Poly blend and gives proportions. Products like wiping varnishes may or may not contain any Tung oil but list Tung oil in product name like Formby's Tung Oil and others.

Pure Tung Oil or Tung Oil - Real Milk Paint ®

Wood Finishes | Tung Oil | Real Milk Paint ®

This article explains better than I can. Before buying a Tung oil product always check and read the container label or MSDS to see if getting Pure Tung oil, oil varnish blend or wiping varnish.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use

Citrus solvent is a replacement for other solvents (MS, Naphtha, and Turpentine) accepted by the going Green community. You should don gloves & eye protection when using. Sutherland Wells patented their own Di-Citrus product.

I like prue Tung oil, and know how to apply! Also like oil blends and wiping varnish for different reasons and different applications.

 

[robertkulp]

I still have a a little left in a can of Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish from Home Depot that I've used on pens for years. While it's not pure Tung Oil, I really like that particular formulation and have yet to find a decent replacement.

For my purposes, I would start with two parts Mineral Spirits, and one part each Tung Oil and Minwax High Gloss Poly. It would really soak in the wood and then I would heat it up at high RPM to get it to polymerize. After a few coats, I would switch to a different ratio of one part each, gradually reducing the MS and increasing the TO and Poly. This resulted in a finish that was both below the surface and built up above the surface of the wood.

Depending on the final sanding/polishing, I could adjust from a satin to a gloss finish. Since this is more of a traditional wood furniture finish, people are used to it and like the way it feels. Since it's both in and on the wood, it's very easy to repair. But, this finish is rock hard and holds up extreemly well, though.

My wife has one of my first pens and although she uses it every day, it still looks great. It's about ten years old and the only thing I've done to it is to buff it once or twice with the Beall buffs.

I don't used this finish much any more since my supply of Tung Oil Finish is about gone and because it takes much longer to complete, but it's a great finish. I've also used the above formula for refinishing furniture.

I have no idea what's in Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, but I heard that Behr got into marketing trouble because it contained very little Tung Oil. Don't know, don't care. It worked for me, but Home Depot quit selling it about five years ago. Oh well.

 

[nativewooder]

Most Big Box stores and other suppliers to the general public who sell Tung Oil or some derivative have to find a source who make a product and put their individual label on it. IMHO it's better to buy from the source!

 

[magpens]

Thanks to you all for the comments re: using Tung Oil to finish pens. Seems like it works and I have given it a try. Slows down "production" but I like the feel of it. I let it dry for half an hour and then spun it like a frictioin polish.

 

[Wildman]

Things to remember about Tung oil:

Pure Tung oil takes time to fully cure, up to a week or more.

Pure Tung oil has relative poor penetration & scratches will expose bare wood. Using a mix of 50% oil to solvent on the first coat only will improve penetrating! Subsequent coat should not be thinned.

Pure Tung oil excels as a finish on closed grain wood species opposed to open grain. Advisable to fill the pores of open grain wood before apply Tung oil.

Applying Tung oil:

Apply oil to a rag and flood the surface of wood, wiping of any excess.

Wait about ½ hour to wipe surface with clean rag to remove and oil bleed. Jury is out on vigorous buffing/rubbing, heats the oil and increases penetration this optional step may produce minimal returns. So I am not sure if using friction finishing procedure works with pure Tung oil, while probably okay for oli blend or whiping varnish.

Wait 24 hours or until dry before apply second coat. Using 0000 steel wool between coats to sand the surface will provide a smoother surface or let you know you need to wait another day before applying second coat. If getting white powder surface dry enough to continue, if getting a gummy mess surface not dry. Some people will just wait a day between coats with no sanding!

To get maximum protection need to apply 4 coats. You can check if oil is fully cured using your finger. If finger slides smoothly and easily across the surface without any resistance your oil finish is cured. If any resistance surface not cured, and need more time.

That resistance test really important no matter how many coats you apply if going to use a film finish top coat.