Shellawax Question

[QuietHill Crafts]

I turned my first pen last night and I'm heading to the shop tonight for another round.

I've been reading finishing posts all day (in between looking like I'm working), and I see various methods. The ones I have at my disposal this evening is Shellawax.

Last night I applied 2 coats, not too sure if I got it hot enough to do the trick or not either. I'm "ok" with the finish, but I'm really wanting the wood to have a higher gloss.

Should I be applying a CA coat first, sand it down and then go to Shellawax? Is 2 coats enough, or is this a product that benefits from additional coats? Is there perhaps a product that I would apply after Shellawax?

Sorry for the tons of questions, but I'm really new and looking to learn.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

 

[BJohn]

I will tell what I do.

First the straight CA do not use BLO like others. 10 to 12 coats sanding with 400 grit half way through till the gloss is gone. When down with all the coats sand with 400 till all the glossy spots are gone. Missed a step when I g=clean the blank each time with DNA and a clean towel.

Then I go through the MM steps all the way to 12000 girt. Used to wet sand but no long do that. After the 12000 grit I use a plastic polish to buff out any small scratches. And for a final step a buffing with Renaissance museum quality wax.

Very good glossy finish.

Good Luck

 

[silent soundly]

The guy just turned his first pen last night. Here are some of the abbreviation used in the last post.

BLO=Boiled Linseed Oil
MM=Micromesh (fine sanding pads)
DNA=Denatured Alcohol

Having said that, there are dozens of ways to apply CA and many other finishes. The problem with the shellawax finish and all friction polishes is that the finish is not durable enough for a pen which can take a lot of abuse over its lifetime. Even CA isn't that great on wood since the wood in bound to change shape with temperature and humidity changes. There isn't an easy answer to you question. Keep reading and find what works best for you.

 

[76winger]

I've shellawax quite a bit in the past but not recently (because I'm moving and haven't made any pens in a little over a year now). It's always put a good "sheen" on the pen without going extra glossy. I like it when I want to still feel the wood texture rather than a plastic covering. You can get a better shine with it as you apply more coats. I've done up to 10 coats to get a pretty good gloss out of it.

I would NOT recommend mixing it with CA or finishing products.

I hope this helps a little.

 

[mecompco]

Tom, to further confuse you, I love BLO and thin CA. I've found that I can get a smooth finish with it that really doesn't even need further sanding with it. I use BLO and CA on a paper towel at a fairly slow speed--if the CA starts to become uneven, I just hold the paper towel on it and it evens out. Take this with a grain of salt, as I'm a fairly noob too. Your YMMV. The BLO seems to act as an accelerator and evens out the finish. I have learned that CA accelerator (the "sprinzer" type at least) does not work for me.

Regards,
Michael

 

[zig613]

Tom,

Shellwax is great product for some wood turnings... just not things like pens that are handled on a daily basis. It is easy to apply however, it doesn't stand up to daily use like other finishes (e.g., CA). I used Shellwax when I first started pen turning and was able to get a reasonable gloss finish after multiple coats. I now use CA as my finish of choice due to its longevity. It can be polished to a high gloss or slightly polished for a satin finish.

Wade

 

[KenV]

Welcome Tom --

I have shellawax and use it. As I remember there is a bottle and screw top jar version. I have the screw-top jar version. Tends towards a paste, but I add denatured alcohol (DNA) as I go to keep it workable.

It take a good sanded base - I sand most everything on the lathe to P600 0r P800 and go beyond that for polishing out pens.

With Shella wax, I usually use 2-3 coats after the P600/P800 for utility pieces. Better quality materials get better finishes and polishes.

I have recently (in the last few months) been able to use Doctors Pens Plus - another friction polish, and find it a better product for me than shellawax. Mike Merideth has made a good one there. (I still use a oil and CA finish on most higher quality pens) Goes on easier and has a bit harder finish. It is harder to get off my hands too.

 

[QuietHill Crafts]

I will tell what I do.

First the straight CA do not use BLO like others. 10 to 12 coats sanding with 400 grit half way through till the gloss is gone. When down with all the coats sand with 400 till all the glossy spots are gone. Missed a step when I g=clean the blank each time with DNA and a clean towel.

Then I go through the MM steps all the way to 12000 girt. Used to wet sand but no long do that. After the 12000 grit I use a plastic polish to buff out any small scratches. And for a final step a buffing with Renaissance museum quality wax.

Very good glossy finish.

Good Luck

Forgive me for asking, but when you use the MM and "wet" sand...what are you using to wet it? regular water, DNA?

 

[BJohn]

Just tap water, And like I mentioned that is how I finish my pens but like something else every one has, there a lot of different techniques. And you will develop yours as you gain experience.

The post right after mine mentioned he likes to use the BLO, (Boiled Linseed Oil) with his CA. I can explain why I don't. I mainly turn wood blanks it has been my experience that the BLO changes the color of the wood. And I personally don't like that.

Also that is why I use the Renaissance Wax that add's the durability that the Shellawax may not.

So follow those basic steps and experiment with some scrap wood, you will not only get practice turning & sanding but find the finish you like.

One after thought, I stopped wet sanding because I started having trouble with water getting under the CA (from the ends of the blank) it was causing spot's. I tried dipping the ends in CA to seal but still had some trouble.

 

[Souths1der]

I've tried Shellawax a couple times, didn't care for it. When I want to do a friction finish I'll use Pens Plus. I've found with the friction finishes that the hotter I can get it the better. I'll put on as many coats as it takes to get to a shine I like. Some woods take more, some less.

 

[vtgaryw]

To further complicate it, you can use a friction polish over a CA. I will use BLO/thin CA on more open grained woods, then finish off with a friction polish. I used to use Shellawax, and liked it, but then I tried Pens Plus and like it just a bit better.

I too like to be able to feel a bit of the wood texture, I don't want a wooden pen to look too much like plastic, so I almost never use medium CA to finish.

Gary

 

[moke]

In my humble opinion ( IMHO ), Shellawax is an awesome finish for bowls and the like....but as mentioned not great for pens.

Also MM really should be used with water and make sure to cover your ways of your lathe
( the rails the tail stock and tool rest slide on ). I went to a Menards and got a magnetic covering for a heat duct and cut to the size I needed....then make sure to use a Boeshield or WD40 product to spray on it too. I try to do that before and after every session.

 

[RedBeard]

I'm new to this obsession myself having turned my first pen back in April/May. Since then I've only turned approx. 40 pens and some of those have been materials other than wood so any advice I offer should be taken with a grain of salt....that being said I've found that BLO/CA finish to be extremely easy to apply and I get a really deep high gloss. It's not a fool proof method in the hands of a neophyte such as myself but it's probably as close to it as I could find.

Straight CA just doesn't seem to work for me. I've also tried Wood Turner's Finish from General Finishes with mixed results.
With the BLO/CA I rarely ever have a need to sand with MM. After the last coat of finish I polish with Meguiar's Plastx then a little paste wax. I don't know that the wax does much but it's become part of my process.