Two ScrewUps

[DurocShark]

First: I attempted to cut out a shark and fill with blue dyed epoxy.

I know I need some technique work on the scroll saw, but the thing that got me was the bleeding of the epoxy into the maple. How have you guys dealt with that? I thought either painting the inside of the cut with enamel that is a close match for the epoxy, or using CA glue to seal the wood.

My other screwup is the finish on this pen:

The deep CA finish added some significant size to the barrels. With the shark one above I undercut the ends and it seemed to help. Is that the only way around this?

 

[Texatdurango]

I too apply a thicker CA finish than most as I feel the added "depth" is worth it.

When I turn a pen, I turn slightly under bushing size, an advantage of turning center to center rather than using mandrels. With the blank slightly undersized, the added thickness of the CA brings it back to matching the mating pen parts diameter.

 

[wolftat]

You could alway do away with the centerband, that would mean the middle of the pen could be any size. I like that shark.

 

[1080Wayne]

Don Would recommend CA as sealant . If the wood is spalted or has large pores , be generous with it . Wayne

 

[leehljp]

Listen to George (Texatdurango). He is right on. That is what I do.

Some hints used by fine pen makers here:


1. With calipers, measure (twice) each center band, nib and clip end where the wood fits. Write this down and use this as the guide for bringing it to size.

2. Use sand paper to sand down to final size. Don't assume that sandpaper's function is only to smooth it. Sanding down to size gives finer control.

3. Sand down about .1 or .2 mm smaller than the CB, Clip End and Nib end.

4. Build up with CA. Check with calipers often and bring into size with sanding.

This is much easier with the mandrel-less (no mandrel) method - in that it allows the build up of CA without it sticking to the bushings. This also eliminates the possibility of getting sanding dust from the bushings onto the wood. Sanding down below the bushing size is easier too. With the no mandrel, the bushing are removed for the finishing stage. Bushings can become a one time purchase instead of a consumable - as was the point of a recent topic.

As a note, if you measure with the calipers the CB, Nib and Clip end - you will find there is often a size variance between pen kits and even pen parts as well as bushings. Therefore for the perfect fit, it is much better to use calipers to determine the final size in accordance with the parts it is to be used with.

Going this route is a step up in fit and finish. But for many people, bushing size is close enough.

 

[nava1uni]

I like the shark a lot. I would coat the inside of the cutout with acrylic paint using a toothpick or glue applicators that are for applying glue to tiny areas. I use them for lots of things and I get them from Lee Valley. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=45857&cat=1,110,42967&ap=1
I wash them out and use them over and over. They work really well.

 

[PenAffair]

I'm not sure why, but I can't see any images in the original post. Am I missing something?

 

[DurocShark]

Thanks guys.

I even have a digital caliper I can use and I have used it to compare my bushings to the parts, and the wood to the parts, but never thought of using it to match the finished barrels to the parts. :smacks self:

I was just surprised at how thick (and drop dead gorgeous) that CA could get. All I have right now are the crappy centers that came with the lathe. I'll put some cone centers on my wish list and play with mandrel-less turning.

As for my shark, I was just surprised that the thick epoxy soaked in. I hesitate to use any paint because of the color differences, and wouldn't the paint soak in too? I'll try again with some CA.

Thanks all!

 

[DurocShark]

I'm not sure why, but I can't see any images in the original post. Am I missing something?

Only an opportunity to laugh at me.

Here's the text links:
http://donimages.com/wood/images/sharkinlay1.jpg
http://donimages.com/wood/images/padaukgoldline.jpg

 

[andyk]

Both pens look good! What is your process to get such a deep CA finish that it builds up that much? I have done some CA finishes but never to that thickness. Is it just a matter of that many coats?

 

[DurocShark]

4 coats of gel CA.

 

[PenAffair]

Only an opportunity to laugh at me.

Here's the text links:
http://donimages.com/wood/images/sharkinlay1.jpg
http://donimages.com/wood/images/padaukgoldline.jpg

Haha. For some reason, the images are showing this morning anyway. They still look pretty good to me.

Russell.

 

[scroller99]

when scrolling in the pic, you have to keep the size small-tiny or else the pics will go over the edge of the pen, I scrolled some stars on a blank and filled them with ca and glitter, the effect was good but the star went almost all the way around the barrel and then they get out of of shape, looked kinda goofy, went into the ugly pen bin. good luck with the saw, I have been scrolling for 20 years any questions drop me a line, good luck Howard

 

[DurocShark]

Thanks Howard. Good point on the size. I saw that coming while I was cutting, but went ahead to see what I ended up with. I agree it needs to be smaller.

I think my biggest issue in the scrolling is this craptastic old Dremel/Craftsman scroll saw. Stamped steel table, etc. The big new Dremel is on clearance at Home Depot for $139 right now, but I'm broke.

 

[PaulDoug]

Boy, great ideas on both and you almost made it. On the second pen couldn't you take it apart and refinish after sanding a little? And you said you used gel CA? I'd use medium. It is Worth working on a little. The scroll saw one is great, next one, if you coat it should work out fine. I have got to try that.

 

[Scott]

Hi Don,

As a sealant, when you intend to use colored epoxy on a cut-out in wood, consider shellac. I keep a can of shellac around for little chores like this. It seals the wood so you don't get any bleed-over, and it doesn't discolor the wood like CA could if it soaks in to a light colored wood.

Nice shark! What did you use to color your epoxy? It looks like there are some specks in your epoxy, and I wondered if that was intended? I have used some powdered paints to color epoxy, and noticed specks in it, and have thought about using a liquid colorant.

You've already received some good advice on the thickness issue. I'll just say that your pens look great!

Scott.

 

[DurocShark]

The "specs" were actually bubbles. I didn't let the epoxy cure long enough, but of course I didn't catch that until after I turned it. heh.

For the dye I used Alumilite blue.

Nice idea on the shellac. I have some super blond that would probably be completely invisible. I'll give that a shot.

 

[Firefyter-emt]

Hank has some great advice. I also turn under the hardware size and build up with CA as I go. What I do is to seperate the hardware and measure the parts. I then write the pen hardware down on a post it note and turn to those exact parts. It can be hard with many kits at once, but you can just write down what pen material is and go from there.

The other thing is that as you sand, by taking the pen off the lathe to measure will place the pen back on in a diffrent spot and can help some out of round conditions. I highly recomend the dead center method of turning as this makes it very easy to remove the blanks to measure. I do not feel that proper measurements can be done with the blank on the lathe, there is just too much chance the calipers are not square.