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Old 02-07-2019, 09:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Again, thank you all. I’m enjoying this discussion immensely, partly because I feel like I’m on the same page with everyone.
Just an aside regarding typical lathes for this work, back in the 80’s, in their ‘infinite wisdom’ the school district I worked for followed the trend of reducing Industrial Arts/Vocational programs. They held an auction for everything in the ‘heavy’ machine shop. There was a collection of roughly 10” South Bend lathes and I bought one for $35. I thought about it for about 10 minutes and then took back my bid, wondering how could I possibly get that down my basement stairs!!
I now have a friend with an even bigger turret lathe who would give it to me, but again, without a garage, I even less of a place for it.
So, I will continue adapting, using the the old Mark 5. It’s amazing how fast material can be removed with a good file (or angle grinder) and 1000 rpm!
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Old 02-07-2019, 10:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Since you have a drill chuck, you can use the shank of a letter C sized still bit in your drill chuck. Cut the shank off and leave about 1/2 to 3/4 exposed in the drill chuck. This is the same as the PSI set up in the above link I posted where you still use bushings. Use a 60 live center in the tailstock.

That should get you started. Since you have access and apparently know your way around metal lathes, I will suggest you make your own bushings. Plenty of ideas out there.
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Old 02-07-2019, 11:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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You made a mistake by not going through with the South Bend purchase !!! ;( . Many of us "cut our teeth" on those !
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Old 02-07-2019, 01:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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You made a mistake by not going through with the South Bend purchase !!! ;( . Many of us "cut our teeth" on those !
Probably one of my biggest bonehead moves. I should have put it in my garage instead of worrying about it being in the basement.
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Old 02-08-2019, 08:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Folks, thanks for all the info, but I need to clarify something in my head. I bought my first 8 kits from Woodturninz and last 2 from Exotic Blanks. All required a 7 mm mandrel, all of the bushings and tubes were 7mm. I get the impression that for kits requiring a larger hole/tube, one buys bushings that still have 7mm holes but step up the diameter to fit a larger tube. Is that correct so far?
Now, after reading many of the recommendations here, I’m under the impression that one does not need kit specific mandrels or bushings, by using some kind of tapered drive center in concert with a live tail center?
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Old 02-08-2019, 08:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasboy1 View Post
Folks, thanks for all the info, but I need to clarify something in my head. I bought my first 8 kits from Woodturninz and last 2 from Exotic Blanks. All required a 7 mm mandrel, all of the bushings and tubes were 7mm. I get the impression that for kits requiring a larger hole/tube, one buys bushings that still have 7mm holes but step up the diameter to fit a larger tube. Is that correct so far?
Now, after reading many of the recommendations here, I’m under the impression that one does not need kit specific mandrels or bushings, by using some kind of tapered drive center in concert with a live tail center?
Correct....and correct!

Dead center in headstock.....liver center tailstock.
You will need digital calipers to measure the blank as you go to get the proper diameter and match the pen hardware.
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Old 02-08-2019, 08:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Charles,

I had the same questions the first time I used TBC (I called it mandrel-less) but I didn't have anyone around to guide me. I couldn't get my mind around it so I just started hooking things up - Tail stock, head stock, and with bushings on a single blank and pulled the tail stock up . . . and dog gone it - it started working! And it worked well! I was amazed, and it was far more simple than using mandrels.
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Charles,

Charlie W. said it all ... all you need is the "dead center in headstock ..... live center in tailstock."

Fit the tubed blank between those two centers, apply just enough pressure from the tailstock, switch on the lathe and start turning. . Friction from the dead center contact with the brass tube does the turning. . No more bushings !! .. no more mandrel !! .. YAY !!!

(I think I said the same thing in an earlier post !! (
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Old 02-08-2019, 09:19 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasboy1 View Post
Folks, thanks for all the info, but I need to clarify something in my head. I bought my first 8 kits from Woodturninz and last 2 from Exotic Blanks. All required a 7 mm mandrel, all of the bushings and tubes were 7mm. I get the impression that for kits requiring a larger hole/tube, one buys bushings that still have 7mm holes but step up the diameter to fit a larger tube. Is that correct so far?
Now, after reading many of the recommendations here, Iím under the impression that one does not need kit specific mandrels or bushings, by using some kind of tapered drive center in concert with a live tail center?


One of these with Morse Taper to match your latheís head stock. Usually a Morse Taper #2 for wood lathes some smaller lathes use a #1 taper.

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Old 02-08-2019, 10:31 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Only problem is he has a Shopsmith, there is no Morris Taper to stick a dead center in.
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