Too Smooth for a finish?

[leehljp]

I just finished a pen that is mediocre, nothing to crow about but it has one problem. It is so smooth that it is a little hard to hold. It feels too slick. I finished it this morning and it it late night now. Carried it around with me all day in my shirt pocket and it still slick.

As redfishsc mentioned in one of his posts, he has started using an automotive paint polish in his finishing process. I bought some well over year ago and have been using it for polishing the CA beyond the 12000 MM and then capped off with two or three coats of TSW. I usually put the polish on, rub gently and wipe off and sometimes a 2nd coat and wipe off - before the TSW.

But this time I went a little extra and put 5 or 6 coats of polish, - rubbing gently, wiping off and applying more, rubbing and wiping off. Then 3 coats of TSW. Since then, the pen is just slippery enough that I have to make an extra effort to hold/grip it for writing. Kind of uncomfortable. It feels like it has a very slight oily residue - not unlike good quality UHMW that just has that oily "feel" of being slick even though it is not oily. I have not sprayed any WD-40 on it but it feels like some was wiped on and the wiped off.

The TSW residue was polished off while on the lathe, as I have done on all previous pens.

A second idea that comes to mind is that this is just like the modified slimline that I posted 2 days ago and it could be a combination of a very good finish (a first) and the angle and shape of the pen at the nib end.
See it here http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16245

Is there an optimum angle to grip and maybe another angle that is not?

 

[Dario]

Lee,

I am mostly a B2B turner and started experimenting on bulgy part near the writing/nib end because of what you just described. Still haven't found the best shape compromise for an ergonomically shaped pen that is still pleasing to the/my eye.

 

[OSCAR15]

WHAT IS B2B?

 

[alamocdc]

Bushing to (2) Bushing

 

[OSCAR15]

THAT WAS FAST! Thanks Billy

 

[redfishsc]

I'm still willing to bet that it's your choice of wax that is causing the feel (not knocking the stuff, and I'll only bet a maple pen blank on it).

I basically do what you just said. I polish the FOOL out of CA finish and acrylics. Just because I can [8D].


BUT, I finish them with a SOLID brick of carnauba. I hold the brick up to the pen, burn on a layer of carnauba (gotta get some heat so I wouldn't do this with ebony or snakewood). I then use a 3" square flannel cloth to buff off the carnauba excess, and a final hand buff.

The solid carnauba has a good non-slip effect to it IMO. Feels slick but not that slippery feel you mention. That only happens when my hands are sweaty and greasy in the cabinet shop (ie, every day in the summer). I've found Parker pens to be of great use in the shop.


I use a carnauba mix I made myself out of 50/50 carnauba brick and turpentine (melted in a double boiler) on lacquer-finished pens and on any wood I suspect heat would crack. Works great.

Matt

 

[KenV]

A lot of auto polishes include silicones. Use of multi coats may have created the silicone slick that is so good on cars, but not so good on a writing stick.

 

[redfishsc]

Ken, I did not know that some auto waxes have silicone. If that's the case, anyone that has use any silicone-containing wax will have a BEAR of a time refinishing a lacquered pen. Silicone tends to absorb or adhere to the lacquer and cause any refinishing efforts very hard (regardless of how much of the finish, or wood for that matter, you sand off). Causes what is called "Fish eye" in furniture refinishing.


I can only imagine what that would do to a pen if it was refinished with lacquer. I doubt it would have an effect on CA though.

 

[leehljp]

I think that is the problem. It "feels" like a silicone finish now that you mentioned it. I cannot find the specs on the brand that I am using and even have checked on line. The Mfg is Holts and they do not even list a paint polish as a product. But strange products do show up in Japan. One thing I have learned is that many international companies make products that are country specific. As a woodworker, I stay away from silicones, even on my saw and tools. But this "polish" is always applied just before the wax so it never makes it to the wood on the pen.

After 3 days, it is still slicky smooth.

I used "fish eye" reducer often in the early '70s when I helped a friend out in his body shop often, as his regular help was sometimes undependable.