A splash of cold water

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

monophoto

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
2,545
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
I'm retired, and once a week I get together for coffee with some of the folks I used to work with. One of the guys is a woodturner who makes pens, stoppers and bowls, and who has been offering occasional advice to me in my woodturning journey.

Yesterday, I took along a 'show and tell' - a collection of pens and stoppers that I had made recently to show to my friends.

Jan complemented my efforts with inlays, and also the finish on my stoppers (WOP). But he dismissed the finish on my pens - 'you need to work on finishing' - 'you need to sand them more'.:mad:

While his comment stung initially, I recognized that he was right and he was actually doing me a favor by being honest with me. .

Today, I decided to see if I could improve the finish on a walnut "Artisan" fountain pen that I made a couple of months ago and have been using regularly.

Originally, I had finished the pen with multiple (probably 6-8) coats of BLO and thin CA. It looked OK, but it's wasn't really smooth. So I disassembled it and remounted the upper and lower barrels on the mandrel. I lightly sanded it with 400 grit sandpaper (trying to avoid removing any more of the finish than was necessary to smooth it out). Then, I applied a number of coats of BLO and medium CA. I noticed that the lower barrel acquired a nice glow, but the upper barrel seemed to remain rough even though there was an obvious buildup.

After the CA had cured for half and hour or so, I sanded again with 600 grit, and then 800 grit, and then shifted to wet-sanding with MM, going all the way to 12000. That left a very smooth, satin finish. Then, I used a bit of plastic polish.

Amazing what a difference that made!

Bottom line - Jan did me a great favor, and his friendly 'kick in the butt' caused me to learn how to do a better finish.

That's what friends are for.:wink:
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

gketell

Local Chapter Leader
Joined
Dec 15, 2006
Messages
2,772
Location
Pleasanton, CA, USA.
To make it easier on yourself, when you do your initial sanding of the CA use a backing block. This will make it so you can only sand the high-spots. When you get a nice, even "haze" everywhere you know you have a perfectly flat finish. NOW go on to your finer grits.

If you are going to use plastic polish then you don't need to go to MM12000. The polish is rougher than that.
 

Attachments

  • SandingGrits.pdf
    26.3 KB · Views: 210

gketell

Local Chapter Leader
Joined
Dec 15, 2006
Messages
2,772
Location
Pleasanton, CA, USA.
To make it easier on yourself, when you do your initial sanding of the CA use a backing block. This will make it so you can only sand the high-spots.

Suppose the design of the pen includes 'high spots'? Beads, etc. Using a backing block won't be very helpful.

No one said the backing block has to be flat. Just like sanding crown molding, you would want a backing block that best matched the curves in your pen. But that way at least the ridges in your finish would go away. And if the ridges in your finish exactly match the curve of your design, well then your sanding is done. :biggrin:
 
Top Bottom