Pens that are problematic--- your opinion---....

[redfishsc]

I have found a few pen kits to be more of a pain to make than they are typically worth-- based either on a lousy quality component or on more-difficult-than-necessary assembly.

One, for example, is the european double-twist (parker, 8mm) pen from Berea. Aside from parting off for the center band (which I still think is inferior... there has to be a better way to design it), I have heard more than one person complain that the transmission is prone to failure.


Likewise is the American style pen kits from Woodcraft. I have never actually bought one of these kits but I inherited a 10-pack from the guy I bought some used equipment from. These, too, have lousy transmissions. I have had two of the 7 I have made fail. That, and if you twist the pen to extend the ballpoint, half the time the tranny begins unscrewing from the lower tube rather than twisting open. Just lousy. I haven't bothered with the last three kits b/c they are cheap 24k and are just problematic.


Anyone else have a comment on a problematic kit you have encountered? Being a bit of an "efficiency" nut, I personally find poorly designed kits to be an insult. [xx(]

 

[alamocdc]

RF, FWIW I've had no problems with the mechanism of the 8mm Euro.

 

[mrcook4570]

Any PSI screw cap pen. Their threads are terrible.

 

[gerryr]

Any metal to metal threads on capped pens. I just refuse to make them. I happen to like the Berea 8mm Euro, in fact I sell quite a few of them.

 

[kent4Him]

I find the regular fountain and rollerball pens from CSUSA to be problematic with the snap on cap. Never seems to fit just right. I don't plan on making any more of them.

 

[airrat]

I have not made any of the 8mm Euro from Berea, but if it is like the Flattop series its not the transmission. Its when you put the center band on it crimps the brass tube just enough to make it not want to work. I still make them I just shave off some of the brass tube when I cut off the wood. If the center band can be slid on and needs glue, I do not have any problems with the transmission.

Only other problem/complain though is you have to be as close as possible with the amount cut off or you have transmission problems. Seems to bind down.

 

[its_virgil]

I agree. The problem is not the transmission. Prior to assembly, make sure the transmission will pass FREELY through the tube. Any binding will cause the transmission to not function properly. The transmission does not work by friction like the 7mm transmission. Causes of the problems mentioned are (1) the crimped tube while parting off for the center band or pressing on the center band. Use a punch to open the tube so the transmission will pass through after pressing on the CB and (2) glue inside the tube. Any glue at all will reduce the ID of the tube and cause it to bind on the transmission. Eliminate these two problems and the pen and transmission will work flawlessly. One other thing to check is to be sure the top of the bottom tube will fit inside the CB without binding. The CB should spin freely on the top of the bottom barrel. These problems show up especially on the 8mm euro and the americana pens. They are also quite sensitive to the length of the upper tube/blank. Don't give up on these pens. They work as designed. We must learn to make the pen as designed. I too wanted to give up on these two kits until someone gave me this same advice.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by airrat
<br />I have not made any of the 8mm Euro from Berea, but if it is like the Flattop series its not the transmission. Its when you put the center band on it crimps the brass tube just enough to make it not want to work. I still make them I just shave off some of the brass tube when I cut off the wood. If the center band can be slid on and needs glue, I do not have any problems with the transmission.

Only other problem/complain though is you have to be as close as possible with the amount cut off or you have transmission problems. Seems to bind down.

 

[Rifleman1776]

As discussed extensively elsewhere, the Havana/Little Havana. Everyone has probem problematic. Latest was bad, and I do mean "BAD" quality control. Never again this style for me.

 

[GaryMGg]

Frank,

Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />As discussed extensively elsewhere, the Havana/Little Havana. Everyone has probem problematic. Latest was bad, and I do mean "BAD" quality control. Never again this style for me.

You sure those weren't above your skill level [}] [][][]
...Running for cover....

Gary

 

[bgray]

Originally posted by kent4Him
<br />I find the regular fountain and rollerball pens from CSUSA to be problematic with the snap on cap. Never seems to fit just right. I don't plan on making any more of them.

Do you own the cap adjusting tool? I make a good amount of those pens, and haven't really had any problems. I just tighten up the adjuster cap until the cap snaps on snug without any play. I have one in my pocket now that I've been using for about a year with no issues.

My problem pens...

Anything with a click mechanism. I haven't found any that I think are worthwhile. Any recommendations on one that actually works is appreciated.

Also, the Presidential from CSUSA. The clip is always wobbly, and appears cheap. A lot of my customers assume that the clip is broken when they handle the pens.

 

[Paul in OKC]

Same here with these. I haven't done a Euro, but have done probably 200ish of the flat tops. Always make sure the upper slides over the transmission, as Don said, then I press in the little brass piece and then press the upper onto the lower. Only other problem with these has been on occassion the nib is to small for the refill to go through (on chrome kits). I have a drill bit the size of the refill and just run it through, takes care of the issue.

Originally posted by its_virgil
<br />I agree. The problem is not the transmission. Prior to assembly, make sure the transmission will pass FREELY through the tube. Any binding will cause the transmission to not function properly. The transmission does not work by friction like the 7mm transmission. Causes of the problems mentioned are (1) the crimped tube while parting off for the center band or pressing on the center band. Use a punch to open the tube so the transmission will pass through after pressing on the CB and (2) glue inside the tube. Any glue at all will reduce the ID of the tube and cause it to bind on the transmission. Eliminate these two problems and the pen and transmission will work flawlessly. One other thing to check is to be sure the top of the bottom tube will fit inside the CB without binding. The CB should spin freely on the top of the bottom barrel. These problems show up especially on the 8mm euro and the americana pens. They are also quite sensitive to the length of the upper tube/blank. Don't give up on these pens. They work as designed. We must learn to make the pen as designed. I too wanted to give up on these two kits until someone gave me this same advice.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by airrat
<br />I have not made any of the 8mm Euro from Berea, but if it is like the Flattop series its not the transmission. Its when you put the center band on it crimps the brass tube just enough to make it not want to work. I still make them I just shave off some of the brass tube when I cut off the wood. If the center band can be slid on and needs glue, I do not have any problems with the transmission.

Only other problem/complain though is you have to be as close as possible with the amount cut off or you have transmission problems. Seems to bind down.

 

[mdburn_em]

Originally posted by mrcook4570
<br />Any PSI screw cap pen. Their threads are terrible.

I second that. You can't even give those away because people would think you hate them. Screwing those together or apart is akin to fingernails down a chalkboard.

My problem pens...

Anything with a click mechanism. I haven't found any that I think are worthwhile. Any recommendations on one that actually works is appreciated...

I haven't found a Berea click kit that works.
I've had good success with CSUSA kits. Maybe I was lucky.

 

[gerryr]

Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />As discussed extensively elsewhere, the Havana/Little Havana. Everyone has probem problematic. Latest was bad, and I do mean "BAD" quality control. Never again this style for me.

This may apply to the FP and RB, but not the ballpoint. I've made several of these and they go together without a hitch and work perfectly.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by Rifleman1776
<br />As discussed extensively elsewhere, the Havana/Little Havana. Everyone has been problematic. Latest was bad, and I do mean "BAD" quality control. Never again this style for me.

 

[ed4copies]

Originally posted by its_virgil
<br />I agree. The problem is not the transmission. Prior to assembly, make sure the transmission will pass FREELY through the tube. Any binding will cause the transmission to not function properly. The transmission does not work by friction like the 7mm transmission. Causes of the problems mentioned are (1) the crimped tube while parting off for the center band or pressing on the center band. Use a punch to open the tube so the transmission will pass through after pressing on the CB and (2) glue inside the tube. Any glue at all will reduce the ID of the tube and cause it to bind on the transmission. Eliminate these two problems and the pen and transmission will work flawlessly. One other thing to check is to be sure the top of the bottom tube will fit inside the CB without binding. The CB should spin freely on the top of the bottom barrel. These problems show up especially on the 8mm euro and the americana pens. They are also quite sensitive to the length of the upper tube/blank. Don't give up on these pens. They work as designed.

Thank-you Don!!!

I fought with one for over an hour, last night.

 

[Bozz]

I would like to pass along some details about how I resolved the tight fitting lower barrel and hard to twist problem with this style of pen. This has worked out well for me.

<br />

I hope this helps. IAP is a great place!

Bozz in Fair Oaks, CA

 

[TellicoTurning]

The pens with the plastic pop on caps, it's hard to get a nice tight fit on those. And those that require the notch for the clip... they never look right for me... don't do either anymore. Nor little Havana's.

 

[arjudy]

Click pens. Have not found one that will consistently click properly. I've pretty much decided to only use slimline, European and Cigar kits to make pens. I have no problems with the high end kits either but will only make those for individual orders because of the price of the kit.

 

[redfishsc]

Thanks for the input guys.


I made one of those American rollerball plastic snap-caps (rhodium, CSA) for my wife, and while I wasn't able to get a really tight fit on the cap, I got it pretty good and close and it looks great.


I have several more of those kits ready to go, I'll see when they are done.

 

[Rmartin]

Elegant American can be a chore, and the center band fells like you could shave with it.

I've also had problems with the refills that come with several of kits. Some have worked for only one day before they gave up the ghost.

 

[grumps]

Originally posted by arjudy
<br />Click pens. Have not found one that will consistently click properly...

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one that has issues with click pens - I thought maybe it was just me! So far, the "best"(that's stretching a relative term!) one I've found is the PSI Slimline Pro gelwriter (PENXXS). It doesn't seem as cheesey as some of the others, but it, too, is VERY sensitive to tube length. And once it's assembled, it's almost impossible to take apart successfully.

jt

 

[skiprat]

I mostly only do slimlines and recently have found that the clip on the rhodium from CSUSA is very difficult to get onto the finial. I have had to use a vice on the last batch. Not a big deal, but a pain.
Like a fool, on the first one I used a mandrel spacer to press it on with and of course the spacer got stuck on the finial[:I]