non-wood attempt: advice please

[punkinn]

Okay, okay, I have to at least try. I have an acrylic blank, an "Environ" and some Trustone blanks on the way.

So I don't find out what not to do the hard way, could someone give me some basic do's and don'ts for turning that which isn't wood? I'd really appreciate it... I have some MM thingies for plastic and some Hut Ultra Gloss (plastic finish) coming. Please tell me that's all I'll need aside from the plethora of my usual wood finishing supplies...

Do I turn non-wood blanks slower than wood? What about sanding? Start and end with what grits? And this may sound stupid, but I shouldn't need to use CA, should I? I mean there won't be any woodgrain to fill...

Nancy

 

[JimGo]

I'm not a pro by any stretch, but I use the same exact tools - I use a round-nose scraper for most of my synthetic blanks, including Trustone. I also don't change the speed of my lathe. You might try the diamond polish...but other than that, it sounds like you're well on your way.

Good luck, and remember, LOTS of pics!!!!!

 

[punkinn]

Originally posted by JimGo
<br />I'm not a pro by any stretch, but I use the same exact tools - I use a round-nose scraper for most of my synthetic blanks, including Trustone. I also don't change the speed of my lathe. You might try the diamond polish...but other than that, it sounds like you're well on your way.

Good luck, and remember, LOTS of pics!!!!!

Thanks Jim... I appreciate it! I promise pics!

 

[Jim15]

Nancy you have everything you need (in my opinon). You don't need CA, I sand just like I do wood incluing the MM then I use plastic polish. i fine Trustone turns easier than some of the harder crosscut wood I've come across.

 

[Dario]

Nancy,

I actually modified one parting tool...changed the edge to a bit rounded profile and use that start to finish. Works like a charm [^].

Note that I only turned two (2) synthetic pens to date [] so my experience is very limited.

Seems like MM is not enough though so I will be buying either the diamond powder or some novus swirl remover.

Good luck!!!

 

[Tanner]

I've only done 6 pens, however 5 of them were acrylics. I use the spindle gouge then when close the shape I want, I switch to the skew to get it smoother. Then I go to 400, 600 then into all the MM's. I finish with Novus #2 and Hut Ultra High Gloss. Sand at a lower speed so as not to burn it. Some people use water on the sand paper to help in the cooling of the pen, I have not tried that yet. If the acrylic is somewhat see through, I would suggest painting the brass tube with some finger nail polish that matches as with some acrylics you can see the brass tube near the thinner ends. The gloss is amazing even without the Novus or Ultra High Gloss.

Most if not all people on this site have more experience than me, but I have learned a lot from them and I do try real hard. I'm sure they will all pitch in to help you.

Good luck!

 

[ncseeker]

Just remember.... Heat is BAD !!

I've turned lots of sythetics. I like 'em. I use my skew for everything. After that I use a light touch with 320 sandpaper and then move on to all the MM using them wet.... very wet and at a slower speed. I drape a towel over my lathe to keep the water off the slides. Then I dunk each piece of MM in a bucket of water and scrunch it up like a sponge. I sometimes buff the blanks out using white diamond and then apply TSW.

Also, especially when you get close to the size you want, use a very light touch. If you're too heavy handed the blanks can sometimes chip.

 

[bonefish]

I finish like the others described, but I learned the hard way about drilling the stuff.

Support the bottom of the blank with a scrap of wood of something so that the drill goes on through the plastic and into the wooden support when drilling.

If the bottom endis not supported, the plastic will burst when the drill comes out the bottom of the blank.

I don't slow the lathe down, but I do make lighter cuts than with wood.

Bonefish

 

[JimGo]

That's a really good point Robert! Actually, something that I started doing last weekend after two exploding Lucite blanks (despite the support block underneath it) is to cut the blank oversized by 1/4" or so, and carefully drill so that I don't quite come out the bottom. I then just trim the drilled blank to the appropriate length on the band saw.

Another technique that works well is to drill in small bites with LIGHT pressure as you get close to the bottom of the blank, and to make sure the flutes are cleared regularly. I realized after my second exploding blank that I was pushing rather hard (dull bits) to get progress, and that I was actually shoving the bit through the end of the blank, rather than allowing the bit to cut it's way through.

 

[punkinn]

Originally posted by ncseeker
<br />Just remember.... Heat is BAD !!

I've turned lots of sythetics. I like 'em. I use my skew for everything. After that I use a light touch with 320 sandpaper and then move on to all the MM using them wet.... very wet and at a slower speed. I drape a towel over my lathe to keep the water off the slides. Then I dunk each piece of MM in a bucket of water and scrunch it up like a sponge. I sometimes buff the blanks out using white diamond and then apply TSW.

Also, especially when you get close to the size you want, use a very light touch. If you're too heavy handed the blanks can sometimes chip.

Mike,

I'm ashamed to say that I've never been able to make friends with my skew... it just doesn't like me and I don't try to convince it otherwise, so I never use one. I use a roughing gouge to turn all my pens. &lt;ducks and waits for rotten tomatoes to start flying&gt; [B)]

Do you know, can I use the little square pads of MM bonded to the cushions wet too?

Nancy

 

[punkinn]

Originally posted by JimGo
<br />That's a really good point Robert! Actually, something that I started doing last weekend after two exploding Lucite blanks (despite the support block underneath it) is to cut the blank oversized by 1/4" or so, and carefully drill so that I don't quite come out the bottom. I then just trim the drilled blank to the appropriate length on the band saw. Another technique that works well is to drill in small bites with LIGHT pressure as you get close to the bottom of the blank, and to make sure the flutes are cleared regularly. I realized after my second exploding blank that I was pushing rather hard (dull bits) to get progress, and that I was actually shoving the bit through the end of the blank, rather than allowing the bit to cut it's way through.

That's a good thing to know... I have a bad habit of drilling too fast anyway, so I'll really need to pay attention, and add that support block for the bottom. Thanks!!!

Nancy

 

[punkinn]

Thanks everyone for all your great instructions. I am <b>REALLY </b> grateful. I know I could have taken several hours and gone through the archives, so thanks too for saving me that time. []

I'll post pictures of any successes I may have this weekend!! I hope my order arrives; but it may be Monday so I might get put off until the next weekend.

With much appreciation,
Nancy

 

[mick]

Nancy, after you drill your TruStone blanks...DON"T DROP THEM...whatever you do. DAMHIKT. Everything else all the others have told you ...GOOD STUFF!!!!! One thing I can add, when sanding, slow the lathe way down and use verey light pressure. Otherwise you'll get the plastics hot and also you will gum up your sandpaper sometimes. I've also found that using the padded MM with too much pressure,you'll cut through the surface if you've got any sharp edges on your turnings.

 

[bonefish]

<br />

A good reason to used a support and to drill slow, extracting the bit frequently and cleaning out the flutes.

Bonefish

 

[wudwrkr]

Looks like a perfectly good centerband to me!! [][][][]

Not that I have ever had that happen. [:0][:0]

 

[Dario]

Originally posted by bonefish
<br />

<br />

A good reason to used a support and to drill slow, extracting the bit frequently and cleaning out the flutes.

Bonefish

I don't have a pic but one blew up on me because I didn't tighten the vise enough. The bit snagged the blank as it was exiting and the blank slid all the way to the top of the drill bit and almost shattered into 2 pieces!!! [B)][:0]

 

[JimQ]

I have done about 50 Acrylic pens, and I have to agree with most of what has been said here. Don't bother using regular sandpaper beyond 400 grit, because the MM 1500 is roughly the same grit. If you use 600, then MM 1500, you are back stepping. Yes, you can use the padded MM wet, it is recommended, as it helps keep things cool. Cover the bed of your lathe with a small plastic bag to keep it dry. Keep the lathe speed up when cutting, but slow it down when sanding to keep the heat down.

I am not real good friends with a skew either[], but on its side when sharp, it makes a very good scraper for a final smoothing of any of the Acrylics. It really smooths out the little high spots faster than sandpaper.

JimQ