Warren White
Member
I have been following (among other things) a rather spirited discussion on learning and teaching on the forum. It prompted me to share a bit of learning I have done in the past week.
The part about turning wood pens that I like the least is cleaning the bushings of excess CA after turning. More often than I like, the end of the pen shows me the error of my ways. I have modified my procedure, and the last four pens have turned out much better. I thought I would share my experience in hope of allowing someone to benefit. Others may not have the problems I have had, so this won't be instructive to them.
First, the repentance part. I was taught to sand after the application of CA. I was taught that I should sand with 400 grit to determine if there were any low spots. I thought "that is a waste of time... the CA will cover any low spots." Well, it doesn't, at least for me. I now sand after applying CA. I sand mostly laterally along the axis of the mandrel, then wipe the blank with my hand to check for shiny spots. If I need to sand a lot, I then follow up with a coat or two of CA and do the sanding over again.
One of the changes in my procedure was brought about by buying regular lathe tools. I bought a spindle gouge and skew, and as a result of learning how to use and sharpen them, I now only sand with 320 and then 400. I used to start at 120, and work though the grits to 400.
Now, as to the change in separating the blank from the bushing. I used to wait until the application of CA and polishing it was completed before 'cutting' the bushing free with a hand-held jewelers screwdriver, carefully applied to the joint area. Worked most of the time, but it made me crazy.
I now use the jewelers screwdriver, like a lathe tool, supported on the tool rest, with the lathe at low speed, BEFORE I do the last sanding with 400 grit, and BEFORE I polish. The sanding helps to break the connection between the blank and the bushing. In fact, for the first time, the bushing fell off in my hand when I removed the pen from the mandrel. I haven't tried it with delryn bushings yet; that might even be better. I just haven't been convinced that they have made it any better in the past with my past procedure.
I don't expect this to be earth-shattering to many (if not most) of the IAP members. Likely this is just applicable to me. But if I can help just one who is struggling as I have, it is well worth the few minutes it took me to write this.
I have learned so much on this forum! Thank you all for contributing to my love of this hobby.
The part about turning wood pens that I like the least is cleaning the bushings of excess CA after turning. More often than I like, the end of the pen shows me the error of my ways. I have modified my procedure, and the last four pens have turned out much better. I thought I would share my experience in hope of allowing someone to benefit. Others may not have the problems I have had, so this won't be instructive to them.
First, the repentance part. I was taught to sand after the application of CA. I was taught that I should sand with 400 grit to determine if there were any low spots. I thought "that is a waste of time... the CA will cover any low spots." Well, it doesn't, at least for me. I now sand after applying CA. I sand mostly laterally along the axis of the mandrel, then wipe the blank with my hand to check for shiny spots. If I need to sand a lot, I then follow up with a coat or two of CA and do the sanding over again.
One of the changes in my procedure was brought about by buying regular lathe tools. I bought a spindle gouge and skew, and as a result of learning how to use and sharpen them, I now only sand with 320 and then 400. I used to start at 120, and work though the grits to 400.
Now, as to the change in separating the blank from the bushing. I used to wait until the application of CA and polishing it was completed before 'cutting' the bushing free with a hand-held jewelers screwdriver, carefully applied to the joint area. Worked most of the time, but it made me crazy.
I now use the jewelers screwdriver, like a lathe tool, supported on the tool rest, with the lathe at low speed, BEFORE I do the last sanding with 400 grit, and BEFORE I polish. The sanding helps to break the connection between the blank and the bushing. In fact, for the first time, the bushing fell off in my hand when I removed the pen from the mandrel. I haven't tried it with delryn bushings yet; that might even be better. I just haven't been convinced that they have made it any better in the past with my past procedure.
I don't expect this to be earth-shattering to many (if not most) of the IAP members. Likely this is just applicable to me. But if I can help just one who is struggling as I have, it is well worth the few minutes it took me to write this.
I have learned so much on this forum! Thank you all for contributing to my love of this hobby.