HELP changing tailstock on Jet Mini Lathe

[bob winegar]

Has anyone changed the tailstock on their Jet Mini Lathe ?

I thought you just used a knockout bar but when I did, the pointed cap came off exposing the bearings and the hole is not large enough for a #2 Morse Taper.

What is the correct technique ?

Bob

 

[hilltopper46]

Screw the tailstock all the way in until it stops. Then strong arm it and turn it in a little further. The TS should pop put. If it doesn't pop out in less than 1 additional turn somethings wrong or I don't understand what you are asking.

 

[bob winegar]

It sounds like you understand my problem. I will give it a try.

A salesman at Woodcraft had told me to just use the knockout bar or a piece of dowel to knock it out just like you do when changing the headstock. ?????????????

I will let you know how it works out.

Thanks,

Bob

 

[gwilki]

Bob

Do you mean the live center? The tail stock just slides off the end of the ways. If you mean the live center, Tony is right. You just loosen the "handle" that holds the tail stock extension, then retract the extension until the live center breaks loose.

 

[Randy_]

Assuming you are talking about the stock cup live center that comes with the JET lathe, the information you have been given is correct.

As an additional note, however, some aftermarket accessories come with short Morse taper arbors and will not eject by retracting the tailstock spindle. They can only be removed by using a knockout bar or hardwood dowel.

 

[mewell]

I've used a roughing gouge turned upside down, at right angles to the live center, wedged between the bearing on the live center and the "front" of the tail stock. Keep backing off on the live center until the force of the roughing gouge between the bearing and the front of the tail stock makes the center pop out.

 

[toolcrazy]

I just use the knock out bar that came with my lathe. I bought a Live center from LMS and it's a tad short to do it the other way.

 

[bob winegar]

Sorry about not getting the terminology right. It was the live center that I was trying to remove from the tailstock.

I did get it loose following your advice. At first, it looked like it wasn't going to work but I propped a piece of 1/2 inch plywood between the tailstock and the live center and then it did come loose. I cleaned the Morse taper and put some wax on it and now it responds just as you said it would.

Thanks again, everyone

Bob

 

[jtate]

I've SOOOO been wanting to know how to do this! Thanks!

 

[Chasper]

The #2 morse taper that fits within thetailstock on my Jet is hollow. I understand it has something to do with inserting a tube that is somehow used in lamp making, I haven't taken the time to think that through yet.
The hollow space is larger than the knockout bar that came with the lathe. I needed to remove the tailstock to put in a drill chuck for a forester bit. I removed the entire tailstock as Tony describes above, but to remove the #2 morse taper section within the tailstock I pushed the knockout bar in at a angle so that it would catch the edge of the hollow #2MT. It it hasn't been removed before it may be very tight. I cut a slightly thicker steel bar, clamped the tailstock in a vice and used the thicker bar as a punch on the edge of the hollow #2MT. After the first time it comes out easy but you still need to remove the entire tailstock assembly so you can get the knockout bar in at an angle to catch the edge.

Gerry

 

[Fred]

I have never seen an occasion where the entire tailstock assembly had to be removed to get any properly fitted MT to release. Either the MT is dirty and thus gets wedged in the tailstock, or the taper of the tailstock is rusty, or somehow damaged possibly.

If retreating the tailstock spindle does not push and thus release the insert as is usually the case, you must lock the tailstock to the ways and use a properly sized metal rod from the handle end as has been explained above.

I might add that you try and clean the tailstock very well and the live center tapered shaft of any and all debris. Apply a very light coat of oil to all cleaned metal.

It just should not be difficult to remove as you have described unless something is wrong.

 

[PenPal]

One of my live centres was lengthwise that is cut off and I open a fair sized adjustable spanner across the shaft behind the bearing housing then rewind the handle to pop the shaft out,works every time.Having removed any tapered shaft I gently ream the opening, wash with spirits and clean all through,polish the tapered shaft as well,caution for me that is to fit dry with no oil.
Any tapered piece inserted in the head stock is locked in place with threaded rod and a sleeve with double nuts,I guess because I have seen the dreaded result when a driven taper gets bumped at speed and lets go on a metal mill.When I use a drill press I always buy the type with a threaded end on the shaft that holds the chuck for the same reason,some tapered shafts just are not well made causing grief that lets them pop or drop when you least expect.
Peter