PR vs Wood blanks

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dhallnc

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I'm just curious, what is the cost of producing pr blanks vs buying quality figured wood blanks?

I know there is an initial investment for making the pr blanks, so I'm talking about after you have all the equipment needed.

Thanks.
 
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PenMan1

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I buy PR in 5 gallon buckets. With shipping, that works out to about .20 per ounce. My "average" blank requires 3 ounces of resin. making a total of .60 for the PR. I almost ALWAYS either add mica pearls or embed something over a tube. I figured this once and came up with a average (meaning some are a LOT more, others are less) materials cost of .60. Now, raising the blank total to $1.20. In a perfect world, I should get 214 blanks from 5 gallons of PR. The BEST I EVER DID was 177 blanks. meaning that I WASTED 17 percent of my resin. The cost of this waste is .11 per blank. Since it is really impossible to calculate my waste of "other materials", I use a "guessed at " figure of .11 per blank. So my cost per blank is 1.20+.11+.11=$1.42.

In the real world, I figure materials costs for an average blank is more along the lines of $2.00 to $2.50 per blank. If I am batch processing, under ideal conditions, I can process 20 blanks per hour. Paying my self $20 per hour means my labor cost is $1.00 per average blank. I do consume a bit of electricty with lights, vibrators, ultrasonic cleaners and little ovens. lets call this .25 per blank.

SO...$2.00 materials, $1.00 labor and .25 for power. That puts my blanks cost $3.25 each. This is as close as I can get it. Of course, no start up costs like molds, containers, stir sticks and "machinery" are figured into this number.
 
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dhallnc

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Andy, that is a very detailed answer, thank you.

I have yet to buy higher grade figured wood and have no idea what it cost. If you still use wood, what's do you spend on average per quality blank?
 

PenMan1

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A lot of my wood is free. Meaning harvested by me or friends, some from trading PR, etc (so I figure those cost $3.50 each). On average, I'd say the wood I do turn averages about $6 to $8 per blank. I am a sucker for Ambonya and Afeila and price is not an object on the "right" burls here.
 

Cincinnati

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I buy PR in 5 gallon buckets. ... SO...$2.00 materials, $1.00 labor and .25 for power. That puts my blanks cost $3.25 each. This is as close as I can get it. Of course, no start up costs like molds, containers, stir sticks and "machinery" are figured into this number.

Can you pour into sheets and slice them into blanks on the bandsaw? I have never poured PR, but I was wondering if I could pour a 3/4" thick slab and slice it into 3/4 square x 5" long? Will it cure properly in a slab?

Will that save any money? Most of the PR blanks I buy are in the $2-$5 range at places like Penn State and Woodcraft. Doesn't seem feasible to pour my own at an average $3.25 + start-up costs + expendibles. Then there's the hassel and mess and clean-up costs not included.
 

PenMan1

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I do sometimes pour PR on a piece of glass about 1/16 inch thick and make "ribbons" to put into my blanks. I cut these with an exacto knife and peel the up with a putty knife.

You can, in fact, make big pours into big molds and cut the blanks to size with a bandsaw. It does take big molds.

I don't really pour PR to save money. I pour so that I have control of how my blanks look. I get "custom" blanks that way, rather that buy off the shelf. I think it helps to differentiate my products from those that "buy off the rack".

I buy PR in 5 gallon buckets. ... SO...$2.00 materials, $1.00 labor and .25 for power. That puts my blanks cost $3.25 each. This is as close as I can get it. Of course, no start up costs like molds, containers, stir sticks and "machinery" are figured into this number.

Can you pour into sheets and slice them into blanks on the bandsaw? I have never poured PR, but I was wondering if I could pour a 3/4" thick slab and slice it into 3/4 square x 5" long? Will it cure properly in a slab?

Will that save any money? Most of the PR blanks I buy are in the $2-$5 range at places like Penn State and Woodcraft. Doesn't seem feasible to pour my own at an average $3.25 + start-up costs + expendibles. Then there's the hassel and mess and clean-up costs not included.
 

OKLAHOMAN

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Will that save any money? Most of the PR blanks I buy are in the $2-$5 range at places like Penn State and Woodcraft. Doesn't seem feasible to pour my own at an average $3.25 + start-up costs + expendibles. Then there's the hassel and mess and clean-up costs not included.

But consider if your casting you start to think outside the box. casting things like cactus,coffee beans,pasta's, etc, the possibilities are endless:wink:. .
 
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Russianwolf

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Martinsburg, WV, USA.
One thing you need to consider if you start pouring PR is the smell. When I first started playing with PR I worked in my basement shop. That lasted 1 pour. After that I had to pour outside on my deck due to the smell/fumes. They are strong. Now it means that I can't pour PR during the colder months since it won't get hot enough to set up. Alumilite doesn't have the odor problem, but has its own set of challenges.

Now as to the cost of higher figured woods.

Decent figure I spend between $5-10, for really nice figure between $10-20 and premium blanks (Chittum, Cocobolo Burls, Huali, etc.) it can go up substantially.
 

robutacion

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Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
I buy PR in 5 gallon buckets. ... SO...$2.00 materials, $1.00 labor and .25 for power. That puts my blanks cost $3.25 each. This is as close as I can get it. Of course, no start up costs like molds, containers, stir sticks and "machinery" are figured into this number.

Can you pour into sheets and slice them into blanks on the bandsaw? I have never poured PR, but I was wondering if I could pour a 3/4" thick slab and slice it into 3/4 square x 5" long? Will it cure properly in a slab?

Will that save any money? Most of the PR blanks I buy are in the $2-$5 range at places like Penn State and Woodcraft. Doesn't seem feasible to pour my own at an average $3.25 + start-up costs + expendibles. Then there's the hassel and mess and clean-up costs not included.

Hi Cincinnati,

Yes you can, it does save a lot of time, it require less material to make the molds with and there is also a slight saving in PR.

I started with single molds (pic attached) and not soon after I made bigger molds witch can accommodate 6 to 7 blanks, the pot will accommodate 3 of these molds in a specially made timber separator/shelving type so, one pour will be a 18 to 21 blanks each time. It is possible to create 3 different colours and swirl/pour techniques (final effects) one on each mold but and unless you have everything ready and are well set up, I would suggest you to do 1 mold at the time if you want them all different from each other, otherwise the resins will set too much to be pressurized effectively into all crevasses in the wood, and the resin would stick to the wood either...!

Set up cost will be about $400 to $500, including the first gallon of resin and a couple of colours/powders. There is a fair amount of money involved in getting all the pouring and measuring pots, acetone, and many, many other small stuff that you will need such as gloves, etc., and I only can say in relation to PenMan1 per blank cost estimate that he is pretty right about it, I have set my Resifill prices @ AU$3.50 each just to cover the cost of producing them and the PR here in Australia in considerably more expensive than in the US (AU$70+freight per gallon), I use a little more power than that and all my calculation here based in production costs such as pouting materials, electricity, bandsaw blades (pretty bad on blades these resin blanks) and AU$1.00 for each piece of wood (part blank) used in the casting, regardless if is pine or the best grade Olive wood or burled woods.

There was no labour value added to the calculations, and they still sell for the same price today (most of them), while all the casting materials have add an increase of 12% since last year...! Money making machine, far from it, I do though, use bits of wood that wouldn't have any other use regardless of good grain and colours they may have, and I make some nice stuff for myself too...! I make plenty because I cut plenty of woods so my constant supply of wood casting material is endless and impressive to say the least, the many, many boxes of wood from my now 47 timber species casting material stored, speak from themselves...!:eek: I will never, never used them all even if I live to the age of 100 and I still cut nearly every day...!:rolleyes:

Apart from the health risks of being exposed to such toxic products, casting is indeed a lot of fun, particularly when we get to see what we did...!

Cheers
George
 

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Rangertrek

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i don't do as much casting as the casting pros on the forum; but, I do some limited work. I bought all the materials, pot, tints, etc.
I figure each blank I make costs at least $4. The costs would go down for larger production, but not that much.
 

Brooks803

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Sep 13, 2009
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Aiken, South Carolina
I don't consider myself a casting "pro" but I do ALOT of casting. Mostly color casting and starting to do more pressure casting. Everyone so far has hit many good points (Andy for sure!) so there isn't much else to add except to consider who your customer will be. Most of my casting is designing specific color combos/swirls for people searching for a certain look. Whether it's matching a football teams colors or their wifes favorite colors mixed together I can taylor each blank made to exactly what I want. For figured wood either you have to see it in person to pick out the best grain or pray whoever sells it online gives you the good stuff. With PR I can make exactly what I want for each person and it gives me the flexibility to go in my office (yes I have a casting office now:tongue:) and design a blank taylored to them. PR can take a very high shine and in my opinion (which may be slightly biased now) turns easier than any of the mass produced acrylics (acetate/inlace acrylester come to mind). Roy also hit on a good note that the possibilities are massive with the applications of PR. I guess what I'm trying to boil this all down to is this. While premium blanks can't be touched by PR (bakelite, ebonite, rare woods/burls) You can make a PR blank to match so many different styles. Also a good selling point is that you've now added another feature of the pen that was hand made by YOU. Think of all the custom orders that just became possible instead of searching online or a local woodcraft/ect. for something "close" to what they'd like. I think the initial startup cost will become an afterthought quick. There's a tutorial in the library for getting into casting for less than $100, but you can even do it for $50 or less if you start with the basics to see if it's really something you want to get into. If it is something you'd like to try out do take Mikes advice about the smell/fumes. They are very strong and not to be taken lightly, however there are ways to minimize that which I can get into later on if need be. Best of luck!
 
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