capped-pen lining up question

[ossaguy]

Hi all,

I made a couple of Panche pens,and these are my first experience with caps that screw on.The instructions point out that there are 3 entry points when screwing on the cap,and that if the grain pattern does not line up,then try another entry point.

I took great care in getting them made so the grains match....but it only works in that exact place.

That's such a hassle.I think every time I try,I always have to retry again,sometimes takes 2 tries.

Being new to this style of pen,are all the threaded cap pens like this?

Looks like a good candidate for a burled wood.........but I like spalted
woods the best,and like the grains to always match up.Why wouldn't they just make one entry point to simplify things?

Thanks for any thoughts,
Steve

 

[frank123]

A triple start screw thread can start in three different positions, one of which will line up the other two each 120 degrees off.

Unless your pattern repeats exactly every 120 degrees around the barrel (highly unlikely) it will only line up in one of the three starting positions.

A single start thread always starts in the same position and lines up each time it is tightened, multi start threads only if started in exactly the same spot each time.

 

[Randy Simmons]

I have also attempted to line up the grain. I have been at it for quite awhile, and I am here to tell you it is near impossible, especially w/ a triple or double start thread. I have to ask though, how are those kits?? I have been interested in making a few... Looks like it would be easy to turn them into a closed end.

 

[ossaguy]

I've only made 3,and learned a lot.Hoping the next one turns out the best.The problem for me is getting such a big hole drilled in the center. My drill press isn't very accurate,and all I have is a collet chuck.That works great,but it takes about an 8 inch long blank,so I can put a 1 inch wide,3/4" tenon on each end,then drill on the lathe.

Sorta limits the choices on blanks.The last one turned out sweet,with a 2 inch spindle,but I felt like making a toothpick out of a 2x4!

On that one I tried to put an ever so slight gentle curve in it to better match up with the end caps,that have an angle cut into them.

You want to really get an exact fit between the barrel and fittings at the center,as that is the first thing you notice.I did one that was too proud there,and had to take it apart and redo it right.

I think they look pretty neat! They actually write pretty nice,too.

Steve

I learned to get the

 

[RickLong]

What seems to work well for me is the following: :

After pressing all the fittings in the body of the pen. I assemble the the body with the end cap and nib or roller nib. I take the center band and screw it on as if I were putting the cap on. Once the center band is all the way on, I take the cap blank and line up the grain and hand press so it will not move when I unscrew the center band and the hand pressed cap blank. I make sure when I unscrew the center band the cap blank does not rotate. Once the center band and blank are off, I then press the center band all the way on so it will not move. I then press the clip and cap and I am done.

With double and triple start threads, I really do not find it that hard to line the grains. If the grain does not, I just unscrew and start at a different point. So with a double start, if the grain does not line up, the other start/entry will line up so just rotate your cap so your center band threads us the other start. With a triple, at the most, I have to unscrew the cap two times.

I know when the center band is all the way on my grain will match.

Hope this makes sense...

 

[azamiryou]

If I understand the original poster's question, it's not an issue of getting grain alignment during assembly, but rather dissatisfaction with the fact that 67~75% of the time (depending whether it's a 3-start or 4-start thread on the kit) when you cap the pen, it will be in one of the unmatched positions.

The reason they use multiple-start threads is that you get more thread "grab" per turn of the cap. For example, for a single-start to screw on as far as a triple-start, you'd have to turn the cap about 3 times as far. You are also less likely to torque the cap enough to break it (plastic) or cause it to seize (metal). There is a discussion of this here: http://www.penturners.org/forum/f56/triple-start-tap-dies-100802/

To quickly find the correct thread when capping the pen, I cap it, then if it's incorrect I unscrew the cap while applying gentle closing pressure. This makes it "click" as at moves to the next thread. Repeat until aligned. I find it's quick, and I don't accidentally keep hitting the same wrong thread. On a 4-start, if I see it's off by 180 degrees, I go two clicks.

 

[Ed McDonnell]

On a fountain pen, if you take care in assembly and plan ahead, you can arrange things so that if the cap is put on with the clip lined up with the top of the nib the pen will screw together with the pattern / grain lined up every time.

On a roller ball you need another way. I've thought about trying to introduce an indexing mark of some sort that won't be an eyesore, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

Ed

 

[Ulises Victoria]

I have noticed that in my screw on cap pens. I know how to do it to get the alignment right... unscrew with light pressure until click, etc. Problem is... do you have to explain that to every customer you sell a pen to? Wouldn't some think that the pen is poorly made?
Would you write and instruction sheet when you send a pen far away?

 

[Andrew_K99]

The reality is in everyday use you won't care if they line up. I have 2 capped pens on my desk currently and neither are lined up as I type this. On occasion I'll back the cap off a 'click' and align it but it doesn't really matter to me and I am okay with it aligning 33% of the time.

I agree that for photos and when displaying a pen you should have them aligned but that is easy to do. If a customer asks why it doesn't line up after they cap the pen divert the 'issue' with the benefits of triple start thread and why it is used, I can't see this being a deciding factor in buying a pen.

AK

 

[ToddMR]

What seems to work well for me is the following: :

After pressing all the fittings in the body of the pen. I assemble the the body with the end cap and nib or roller nib. I take the center band and screw it on as if I were putting the cap on. Once the center band is all the way on, I take the cap blank and line up the grain and hand press so it will not move when I unscrew the center band and the hand pressed cap blank. I make sure when I unscrew the center band the cap blank does not rotate. Once the center band and blank are off, I then press the center band all the way on so it will not move. I then press the clip and cap and I am done.

With double and triple start threads, I really do not find it that hard to line the grains. If the grain does not, I just unscrew and start at a different point. So with a double start, if the grain does not line up, the other start/entry will line up so just rotate your cap so your center band threads us the other start. With a triple, at the most, I have to unscrew the cap two times.

I know when the center band is all the way on my grain will match.

Hope this makes sense...

That's how I do it Rick. It works pretty well for me too.

 

[MartinPens]

I had a little business cards made up and 1 side had the instructions for Triple Thread alignment.

Here's what seems to work for me most of the time...
when replacing the cap on the pen body, visually align the grain. It's hard to explain... put the cap and the body together visually without screwing anything on. Just put them together with light pressure. Then counter clockwise turn the body and the first click is the starting point that will result in grain alignment.

I don't attempt to explain this to customers. But I like the grains aligned on my pens when I use them, and this seems to work quickly.

 

[keithbyrd]

I had a little business cards made up and 1 side had the instructions for Triple Thread alignment.

Here's what seems to work for me most of the time...
when replacing the cap on the pen body, visually align the grain. It's hard to explain... put the cap and the body together visually without screwing anything on. Just put them together with light pressure. Then counter clockwise turn the body and the first click is the starting point that will result in grain alignment.

I don't attempt to explain this to customers. But I like the grains aligned on my pens when I use them, and this seems to work quickly.

I have used the same method successfully!!