Apple wood?

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kf4knf

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So my father recently gave me some apple wood from his backyard that has a special place in his heart. When he purchased his house the tree looked to be dead so he had me cut it down for him. After a few months a new tree began growing from the root that was left in the ground. He decided to give it a chance but didnt expect much since it was in the middle of a rocky, sandy area that received little water. It grew! Then a wind storm took its toll and nearly leveled it last spring. He didnt like the eye sore so he cut it down again. He is expecting it to shoot up again this fall. :)

I wanted to make him a pen out of the wood. Since it has only grown a few years (5) its not a large piece. I would estimate about 3 to 4 inches in dia. Its not fully dried yet so I was thinking about cutting it into 3/4 by 3/4 lengths on the band saw and letting it dry. Do you think I should do this or just cut it wet? I am worried it will crack if I let it dry. I have never dried wood before so there may be a work around. I also have never worked with apple. My father once made a large spoon handle from apple and it looked really nice finished. Any thoughts on it for pens? How does it take a finish?
 
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alamocdc

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Steve, apple makes for nice pens. Especially if you have some with interesting grain features. I'd cut what you wish to make into pen blanks now and wax the ends. This will help it to dry faster, but not so fast that it checks too badly. Dario, BigRob and others have even more experience and can tell you even more if they chime in.
 

JimGo

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IIRC, you want to cut it oversize (at least 1" square, and 6" long) to allow for warping during drying. If you can afford to wait, you might be better off cutting the trunk into 6" lengths, waxing it, and letting it dry that way, since I think you'd get less warping that way. BUT, I'm purely conjecturing based only on my understanding...there's NO practical experience here! So, please read my footer carefully.
 

KenV

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This is branch wood. Apple tends to twist and crack as branch wood. I have best success with cutting to desired length plus and inch or two, drill out the pith and put into DNA for several days to weeks. Drilling out the center will decrease the radial cracking and you will likely only get one crack (or less) 1/4 inch hole is all it takes, though larger is OK too. Cut to blanks after the DNA treatment and a week or two of drying.

Most apple tends to be plain, but nice wood to work. Feathers at crotches and figure at knots do show up.

If you do cut now, quarter through the pith and seal the ends (or use the DNA soak).
 

rtparso

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Make sure you cut out the pith ASAP and then dry anyway you like. I like to cut about 1x1 and don't cut to length. Seal the ends or you will loose an inch or so to cracking. BTW I use cheap latex paint to seal.
 

Galanw

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Apple loves to twist and split. Follow the advice above and pray.

When it works, the wood is beautiful and turns well.
 
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