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rd_ab_penman

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Jun 1, 2007
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1,646
Location
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada.
308 cartridge with 308 steel jacket bullet used as the nib, Gold Euro center band, Elk antler with RT Euro finial and clip. Comments and sugesstions welcome.

308cartridgeandbulletnizd3.jpg
 
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Sylvanite

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Jul 18, 2006
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3,113
Location
Hillsborough, North Carolina, USA.
Originally posted by Firefyter-emt

Can you describe just how you drilled the tip itself and get it centered perfeectly?
From my experience, the easiest way is to use a hollow-point bullet. My personal preference for .30 caliber is the 168g Hornady A-Max bullet. It has a hollow point with a plastic insert like the Nosler Ballistic-Tip but with a hollow point is just the right size for a cross-style refill.

I drill the tip and base of the bullet with center-bits and core the bullet with a 1/8" (or slightly larger) bit. For best concentricity, I drill on the lathe using a Beall Collet Chuck (although I have also used a regular chuck and and homemade wood collets). Case heads get drilled on the lathe (with a center-bit and 7mm bit) the same way.

Assembly, for me, is pretty straightforward since I have reloading equipment. I just seat and crimp the bullet the same as if I were making a live round. The crimp is secure enough that I can glue in a tube and seat a transmission later without the bullet moving.

I'm toying with the idea of making some cartridges available to other penturners (if there's interest). Right now, with hunting season shows coming, I'm using all my stock for pens. I could make some more though.

Regards,
Eric
 

Rifleman1776

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Dec 18, 2004
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Mountain Home, Arkansas, USA.
Eric said, in part, "I drill the tip and base of the bullet with center-bits and core the bullet with a 1/8" (or slightly larger) bit."
Thanks for the explanation. However, please clear up a couple points. You said you "drill the tip AND base". Does that mean two passes with the drill, once from each end? And, what is a "center-bit"? 'scuse my ignorance. Is this particular bullet lead filled? Would there be potential problems with clogging or catching?
BTW, I do like the pen. I believe the .308 gives a better looking proportions than with a 30-06. (although the ought-6 is my choice for hunting ;) )
 

Sylvanite

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Jul 18, 2006
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Hillsborough, North Carolina, USA.
Originally posted by Rifleman1776

Thanks for the explanation. However, please clear up a couple points. You said you "drill the tip AND base". Does that mean two passes with the drill, once from each end? And, what is a "center-bit"? 'scuse my ignorance. Is this particular bullet lead filled? Would there be potential problems with clogging or catching?
A center-bit is basically a short, countersinking drill bit that is very stiff so it won't wander. They are very useful for making accurate pilot holes. See http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42280 for an example.

Yes, I make multiple passes with multiple bits from both ends when drilling out a bullet. The first pass is the bullet base, with a 5/64" or 7/64" center-bit. I let the countersink engage a little (a countersink in the base makes the refill easier to feed) but not much as the base needs to stay intact. Then I drill a 1/8" (or slightly larger - 0.130" is more forgiving of wandering or non-concentric holes) hole in the base, up to the plastic tip insert. Lead shavings can build up in the countersink on occasion, and if they do, I hit the bullet base with the center-bit again and they clean right up. Lastly, I turn the bullet around, and drill out the plastic tip using a 3/64" center-bit. At this point, the remains of the plastic insert fall out and I have my bullet-nib.

Yes, the bullet has a lead core. If I drill slowly and smoothly, lead shavings spiral right down the flutes in the drill bit. If I push it, then the bit might clog and stick. When that happens, I take the parts off the lathe, and wiggle them apart. Oddly enough, the worst sticking point is just when I'm through the lead and into the plastic.

I also use a 1/8" or 3/16" center-bit to make a pilot hole when I drill the case head. I find it yields a more concentric (typically +/- 0.003") hole. That, in turn, makes for a better fit with the upper barrel.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 

pssherman

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Jan 19, 2006
Messages
840
Location
Paragould, Arkansas, USA.
Originally posted by workinforwood

It's a beautiful pen. I'll never be truly impressed until I see a 20mm round. [:p]:D[}:)]

You just HAD to say that didn't you? Early in 2006 someone said that they thought the 50 BMG couldn't be made into pen. That challenged me to make it work. Sooooo, it looks like I have a new challenge. I am working on 2 shows for next month and will get to work on the 20 mm after Thanksgiving. Should have it ready in December. At least I think (hope) I can.

BTW, that is a great pen. I make pens with the military 308 casing and bullet, but never thought about using that style for the top. Great idea.

Paul in AR
 

workinforwood

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Mar 1, 2007
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Eaton Rapids, Michigan, USA.
If you manage it, let me know. I wouldn't know where to start, but I want to make one. I can only guess at pouring something inside the casing to make the inside solid. No clip, no backside, just a monster desk pen that sits upright like a torpedo. That would be a godly pen! [8D]:D

I can't seem to even find a casing for that around here. Found some elsewhere that I have to mail away for and they are dummy rounds, don't know if that matters. But they have all this paperwork and minimum ordering to deal with. I just want one, predrilled and some advice how to make it work. I don't even care about the twist action, seems un-necessary for a pen of that magnitude.
 

rd_ab_penman

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Jun 1, 2007
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Location
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada.
For this pen I used a Remington 30 Cal 150 grain 308 Dia. copper jacket bullet. Installed in a drill chuck with the point facing in.
First drilled all the way through with 5/64" bit. Go slowly when you get close to the tip.
Then drill to within 3/16" from tip with a 9/64" bit. Reverse bullet in chuck to clean up tip. Check refill for fit and clean up bullet.

drillingbulletfornibkq3.jpg


bulletnipholevd9.jpg
 

rd_ab_penman

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Jun 1, 2007
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Location
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada.
Originally posted by Firefyter-emt

Can you describe just how you drilled the tip itself and get it centered perfeectly?

Hi Lee,
To drill the tip of solid point bullet I put the bullet in a drill chuck mounted in the headstock with the point facing in. Then I put a 5/64ths drill bit in a drill chuck mounted in the tailstock.

If your lathe is set up properly the bit should be dead center on the large end of the bullet. Drill slowly, cleaning out the lead frequently and the bit will exit the tip dead center every time.
Then I drill the larger hole with a 9/64ths bit, stopping 3/16th short of the tip.

I then turn the bullet around in the drill chuck and face off the tip sqaure.

Hope this helps. I posted some pics of this yesterday.
 

Kemosabe62

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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
88
Location
Laurel, MS, USA.
Alot of info here. If not alot of trouble, could you guys collaberate (?sp) and make us a tutorial w/pics?

Very nice pen by the way. What type of antler. doesn't look like the traditional deer antler that I have done.
 
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