Use of Collet Chucks instead of 3-jaw?

[SteveG]

I have just acquired a new Micro Lux 7 X 16 with a three Jaw (5/8" pass-thru) chuck. I am considering getting an independent 4-jaw (3/4" pass thru) plus ER-32 collets (18 piece, which claim full coverage over the range from 0.08" to 0.787"). The idea would be to use the collets all the time except when special requirements call for the 4-jaw. The 3-jaw would just sit somewhere collecting sawdust. With little recent experience in the world of metal lathes, I ask some feedback. Good way to go? Is there a better approach? For comparison, the collet chuck (on sale saving $75) and 18 Piece Collets cost $290 (combined cost) during this sale at LMS Thanks for any response from you who have numerous small metal shavings embedded in the soles of your shoes!
Steve Guzy

 

[OKLAHOMAN]

If this is what your looking at be sure to get the 122 studs and nuts to go with it.

Collet Chuck for ER-32 Collets 3 Dia. - LittleMachineShop.com=

 

[frank123]

Stay with the 3 jaw till you know the late and lathe operation well.

Get a 4 jaw next and master it (you can get a very accurate positioning with a 4 jaw, as well as chucking square or rectangular bar).

If you find these two don't suit you needs as you master the lathe (mostly accuracy and ease of setup IMO) go for the collets.

Makes learning much cheaper and leaves less stuff laying around unused in the long run.

 

[Rich L]

ER collets are a good way to go. They are accurate and they don't mar your workpiece as easily as a 3-jaw. That's important for diametrical repeatability but depending on how precise you want to be you may not care. You will also find having a 4-jaw indispensible at some point. You do want to be careful about tightening the ER nut especially on soft materials as it make have a tendency to loosen at high RPM.

 

[rherrell]

I had that same lathe, only the 14" model, and I put a 4" three jaw on it. It had about an .800" hole so you could pass 3/4" round stock through it. I also had a collet chuck but I hardly ever used it. Collets are a PITA to change and it's slow. Changing a 3 jaw is FAST and I found that it was accurate enough for pens and the other stuff I was doing.

You can get a 4" three jaw for that lathe for ALOT less money than a collet chuck and a set of collets, that would be my suggestion if you wanted to turn longer 3/4" stock.

 

[randyrls]

An addendum to the good information above. Remember the spindle thru hole will limit how big a diameter you can put thru the spindle. I'm not sure what the largest size that can be passed thru the spindle on your lathe.

 

[azamiryou]

Your plan is a good one, I hardly ever use my three-jaw chuck; I use collets for the most part, and occasionally the dead center or 4-jaw independent. If the full collet set is within budget, I say go for it. I ended up with a much more limited collet set (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4) which works fine, I just have to get my stock close to one of those sizes. When that's impossible, I make a holder for the stock that fits in the 3/4" collet.

It seems I've had a different collet chuck experience from rherrell: I find them quick and easy to change, and less fiddly than the 3- or 4-jaw chucks. So, as they say, YMMV.

 

[rherrell]

The part I don't like about changing collets on a metal lathe is holding it from spinning while you tighten/loosen them. On my wood lathe I can hold the spindle wheel to keep it from turning but metal lathes don't have that option, you either need two wrenches or if you have the one mounted on a plate you need to stick a screwdriver or something else in one of the holes to keep it from spinning.

On my wood lathe it's just the opposite... I use my collet chuck 99% of the time because I hate my 4 jaw!:biggrin::wink:

 

[Rich L]

The part I don't like about changing collets on a metal lathe is holding it from spinning while you tighten/loosen them. On my wood lathe I can hold the spindle wheel to keep it from turning but metal lathes don't have that option, you either need two wrenches or if you have the one mounted on a plate you need to stick a screwdriver or something else in one of the holes to keep it from spinning.

On my wood lathe it's just the opposite... I use my collet chuck 99% of the time because I hate my 4 jaw!:biggrin::wink:

I can see that being a pain. Both my metal lathes can lock the spindle. The little Jet lathe has a lever for the low speed back gear that engages it in a way that locks the spindle. The other lathe has a spindle lock pin. Depends on the lathe. Slightly different (just slightly ) is my mill which has no spindle locking mechanism so I put it in low gear to tighten the collet - that's applicable to most any lathe if you can reasonably change drive ratio easily and maybe hold on to the driving pulley with your third hand. Microlux looks all covered up.

Yep, a pain.

Cheers,
Rich

 

[azamiryou]

The part I don't like about changing collets on a metal lathe is holding it from spinning while you tighten/loosen them. On my wood lathe I can hold the spindle wheel to keep it from turning but metal lathes don't have that option, you either need two wrenches or if you have the one mounted on a plate you need to stick a screwdriver or something else in one of the holes to keep it from spinning.

Mine came with a bar that fits the hole, and a wrench for the nut. I keep both handy. The nut spins easily enough that I only need them for the last turn or so.

 

[SteveG]

I want to thank everyone for your inputs. Opiions seem fairly evenly split on Jaw Chuck vs Collet. I am not in a position to spend without limit, but can invest as needed. Barring any emphatic: "WAIT, STOP, DON'T DO THAT" type responses (of which there were none), I am planning to go with the collets plus independent 4-Jaw/4" chuck. If speed dial still existed, LMS and a few others would be on it! Thanks
Steve Guzy

PS: I have not yet posted any pen photos, having not learned the steps (both photography and computer), but I feel that moment edging ever closer.