Tuning up your tools or maybe OOPS!

[Doghouse]

Here is what I did. I purchased a set of the HF mid grade gouges. I wanted something to practice sharpening on and cutting other profiles. So why do that with expensive gouges.

I took the 1/4 gouge and started putting a fingernail grind on it. Flattened out and drew a long taper to the hollow. Well I went a little too far, so I started with a drill and 60 grit paper. Creating a deeper flute and that is when I realized it was not round at the bottom to begin with. Once I had a flute that matched my taper I progressed up to 1000 grit and polished the flute. At this point I learned another important lesson. If it starts to fall let it. The tip of the gouge is what I caught and it sliced the skin off my finger like pealing an apple! So I guess that is what they mean by a sharp tool. I tried it on some basswood which I could only get to tear not cut. Now it leaves a polished finish behind.

Before I do this to the rest of the HF set (minus the dropping part ).

1. Should the flute be perfectly round or U shaped?
2. Is stopping at 320 enough or does the extra help in any way?
3. Am I over thinking this whole thing and should get a life?

 

[jeff]

John,

Maybe I'm missing something, but I go from my 80 grit grinding wheel right to the lathe. I sharpen my tools (fingernail gouges too) freehand, so they don't have the most perfect profile either.

 

[Doghouse]

I am not talking about the bevel, but the flute. Before the flute was not smooth and round, it was uneven and rough.

After doing this, the flute is polished to a mirror and from the "fine" white stone on the grinder the gouge is extremely sharp now.

My questions are:
Does polishing the flute not every time, but just in the beginning results in a better edge?

- and -

Should the flute be truely round at the bottom and U shaped for roughing and the bowl gouge?

 

[Daniel]

I was reading several things about sharpening, Flute shape. grinding, honing, and on and on. The final word I came away with was whatever works best for you is what is right. But htere are those that will defend there parsonal liking as the only right one. there is the grind it and work with it to the hone it till it's a mirror group. I have heard alot of comments that say that honing and polishing is a waste of time but you still want a very sharp edge. For me confidence in the tool is important thing. so if the extra time it takes to go to 1000 makes you believe you have the right edge then it is right.
as for the flute most of the profiles I have seen in this reading time have been soem sort of V shape. years ago they where all round due to production limitations. they are pretty much considered the dark ages of turning tools today.
I am not a profile advocate of any kind but wanted to pass onwhat i did pick up without you having to re-read it for yourself. can't even remember where I read it all now.
a slip stone will put the honed edge back onto the gouge between grindings also. no need to start from scratch every time. I read that one person uses a leather strop also. that's going for a razor edge.