Tenons

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you have to cut the blank down to the tube for about 1/4 of an inch back from the end of the tube for the center band to go on, its a design thing
 
My first tenon was the Classic Rollerball from PSI. I lucked out and got it right the first try. I guess they have since designed a rev 3 which eliminated the tenon part. I just ordered two of the kits so will be interested to see how that works now.
 
Don't mind the one's where you go all the way to the tube it's the ones you only go part way that I don't like that much. Like the 7mm euro. Problem is I like the pen so I put up with them. Must be getting better though, haven't ruined one in a while. There now I've said that you know what's going to happen next.
 
Ok I have to ask , what is the big deal with tenons ??? If it is a tenon to the tube , why is it such a problem ???
You mark your blank and take a parting tool (a thin parting tool works best) and cut the blank to the tube then nibble off the waste , it takes seconds to do . To get a clean transition to the CB you have to make sure you measure the blank at the cut line with your calipers so it will match the CB .
 
Actually Butch I tried something different this order, I cut the blank short to the required length. So it maybe easier
 
I'm fine with the tenon, it's the finishing with the tenon that I find a challenge. If I put the CA on first, then cut the tenon, I have chip out. If I cut the tenon, then put on the CA finish, I have the CA over the tenon and have to clean the tenon back off with possibility of more chipout. Any suggestions?
 
ldb2000 said:
Ok I have to ask , what is the big deal with tenons ??? If it is a tenon to the tube , why is it such a problem ???
You mark your blank and take a parting tool (a thin parting tool works best) and cut the blank to the tube then nibble off the waste , it takes seconds to do . To get a clean transition to the CB you have to make sure you measure the blank at the cut line with your calipers so it will match the CB .
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Gotta agree with Butch here, cutting tenons are a basic turning skill. While not fun they shouldn't be looked at as hard, tedious at times but not hard.

For the 7mm Euros you really don't need calipers to get it right. Just slip a spare CB over the bushing before you cut the tenon, sneak up on the correct size, stopping to check frequently by trying to slide the CB onto the tenon. I keep mine fairly snug and then with the tip of my skew cut a groove in the tenon to hold epoxy when I glue the CB on.
 
Make a thin parting tool . It will cut the tenon very cleanly and if you cut in at a very slight angle it will create a back cut so you have a perfect fit to the CB .
Making a thin parting tool is easy , take a hacksaw blade and break it about 6" long . Grind the teeth off and grind the profile you like on the end then make a handle for it . This tool will give you a very clean cut tenon to work with .
 
NEVER use an exacto knife on a blank with the lathe running . This is an accident waiting for a chance to happen . There is always the chance that the blade will get pulled out of the handle and slung at you at a great velocity , this could almost certainly mean a ER visit .
 
fernhills said:
ThomJ said:
I have enough scars, so I understand Butch. plus I live alone, they wouldn't find the body for days
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Don`t worry, they will smell !! ya after the 1st day.
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Keep the doors and windows closed they won't fine you for a month or more especially if you never go out much. Told my kids that's how they will find me if they don't check up. Never get the smell out of the house and they will own it and have to pay the taxes. I think they will keep in touch.:biggrin:
 
ldb2000 said:
Make a thin parting tool . It will cut the tenon very cleanly and if you cut in at a very slight angle it will create a back cut so you have a perfect fit to the CB .
Making a thin parting tool is easy , take a hacksaw blade and break it about 6" long . Grind the teeth off and grind the profile you like on the end then make a handle for it . This tool will give you a very clean cut tenon to work with .
Click to expand...

I made a very thing parting tool by using a steak knife and grinding the end to a parting profile. Works great and I can get very thin grooves if wanted/needed. Makes it easy to cut tenons on pens.
 
ldb2000 said:
Ok I have to ask , what is the big deal with tenons ??? If it is a tenon to the tube , why is it such a problem ???
You mark your blank and take a parting tool (a thin parting tool works best) and cut the blank to the tube then nibble off the waste , it takes seconds to do . To get a clean transition to the CB you have to make sure you measure the blank at the cut line with your calipers so it will match the CB .
Click to expand...

I make my own tenon parting tool out of a bi-metal reciprocating saw blade with the teeth ground off. A thin blade sure makes it easier to get a more exact tenon.

The cheaper the blade the better, because the el cheapo blades are considerably thinner that the name brand ones.

I bought a "high dollar" name brand thin parting knife and I perfer the saw blade model.
 
In answer to post #10: Cut the tenon first, then do the CA finish. It is easy to clean up the CA that rolled over the edge of the tenon by mounting the finished barrel between centers, and then carefully scrape the unwanted "roll over" of CA. I usually use a standard parting tool laid on its side. Do very light cuts, and it will clean up very nicely and no chip out.

Steve
 
I make a lot of Euros with the 3/16" tenon using Woodcraft bushings with the slide over collar bushing. Cutting the tenon isn't difficult but you can run into quality problems with gluing the center ring. If you have too much space then CA glue may not hold over time especially if the pen is exposed to high or low temps. I dry fit the center ring and if not tight enough use Gorilla glue. Just have to be careful not to use too much GG given expansion. Been using a Birdseye Maple Euro for over a year without problems.
 
Practice, practice, practice.... lol I use to make them too thin in the beginning. Euro's are one of my favorite pens to make now, so I dont have any problems. It will come with time. I use a small skew. I apply CA after the tennon and then just lightly apply the skew after Im done to clean away the extra on the tennon for nice clean fit.
 
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