Stuck Faceplate

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Pkweiss

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I just bought a Nova chuck for my PSI Turncrafter and I'm trying to get the faceplate that came with the lathe off and it it won't budge. Any suggestions?
 
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You might need to tap it a little. They can get stuck without a nylon washer in there. I have had this problem and a light tap usually works.

Curt
 
Use the spindle lock knob to lock the spindle, and then a 1-1/4" wrench will fit on the stock face plate.

Don't forget to release the spindle lock; your belts will thank you.
 
Brian G said:
Use the spindle lock knob to lock the spindle, and then a 1-1/4" wrench will fit on the stock face plate.

Don't forget to release the spindle lock; your belts will thank you.
Click to expand...

The spindle lock pops every time I turn the the wrench. I'm afraid I'm going to damage the lathe.
 
put some penetrating oil on the threads and let it go to work.

you could also heat up the faceplate

bolt a 2x4 to the faceplate for leverage - than use a strap wrench on the handwheel.
 
Yup, PB blaster, WD40 etc let it soak just a bit.

I just had the same exact thing happen on a second hand turncrafter. Small amount of PB blaster and let it soak 30 mins. There are flat spots on that faceplate for a wrench also.
 
On many lathes, the spindle lock is actually an indexing pin, designed to provide a solid, accurate positioning index for various lathe operations, but is NOT designed to lock the spindle while it is being pounded on to loosen a chuck or face plate. It will work to do that, but may get damaged in the process. Try some other approach, or at least use the (very) light, but repetitive "tap-tap-tap" :smile:approach instead of the "get a bigger hammer":eek::bulgy-eyes:approach. Try to not traumatize your lathe.
 
Some sort of penetrating oil such as Aerokroil or the like may help if it's been stuck on there for ages...

But what you're going to want is a strap wrench (if you're lucky), or a really good set of waterpump pliers or a plumbing wrench - three corner bite, if you can...
 
May sound dumb but try to tighten it first and then try to loosen it. Sometimes this will break the bond. It does work trust me. After you get it off place a thin plastic washer between there or any other device you use. Many people take a coffee can lid and cut a small ring. They do sell these washers for this purpose. Good luck
 
jttheclockman said:
May sound dumb but try to tighten it first and then try to loosen it. Sometimes this will break the bond. It does work trust me. After you get it off place a thin plastic washer between there or any other device you use. Many people take a coffee can lid and cut a small ring. They do sell these washers for this purpose. Good luck
Click to expand...

I bought the washers, just can't put them on yet. Tried a few of the suggestions and still won't budge. I might might have to make it a dedicated buffer and get a new Rikon 70-220.:smile:
 
Pkweiss said:
jttheclockman said:
May sound dumb but try to tighten it first and then try to loosen it. Sometimes this will break the bond. It does work trust me. After you get it off place a thin plastic washer between there or any other device you use. Many people take a coffee can lid and cut a small ring. They do sell these washers for this purpose. Good luck
Click to expand...

I bought the washers, just can't put them on yet. Tried a few of the suggestions and still won't budge. I might might have to make it a dedicated buffer and get a new Rikon 70-220.:smile:
Click to expand...

No way. Don't give up, this happens alot. If you have access to some heat try heat. Leverage is your friend. I would not beat on it and would not use that indexing stop.
 
Pkweiss said:
jttheclockman said:
May sound dumb but try to tighten it first and then try to loosen it. Sometimes this will break the bond. It does work trust me. After you get it off place a thin plastic washer between there or any other device you use. Many people take a coffee can lid and cut a small ring. They do sell these washers for this purpose. Good luck
Click to expand...

I bought the washers, just can't put them on yet. Tried a few of the suggestions and still won't budge. I might might have to make it a dedicated buffer and get a new Rikon 70-220.:smile:
Click to expand...

Now your talkin. Or was that the master plan all along?:biggrin:

Curt
 
If you can get a wrench around it, try tapping the wrench. You just have to break the metal to metal bind in there. Oh and make sure you are turning things the right way!!!!


Curt
 
My lathes have a hole on the spindle right near the headstock. I put a transfer punch in it to stabilize the spindle and give leverage to turn the faceplate the opposite direction.
 
A fellow pen turner called this morning saying his 4 jaw chuck was stuck on the lathe and he has pulled the knockout bar so hard he bent it 90 degrees. He lives less than a mile from me so I drove over and we got it off. I learned this method of removing stuck nuts, bolts etc. from an engineer who worked with me. I had the drain plug on my motorcycle stuck and had rounded off the flats. I applied Liquid Wrench (kerosene works as does WD40) and let it set for a while then I applied heat from a heat gun (don't want to start a fire using a torch with the Liquid Wrench all over the part) and then while applying moderate pressure to loosen, I began tapping medium hard on the chuck with a brass hammer. It took about half an hour but all of a sudden it broke loose and spun right off, no damage to the chuck. I suggested that he make a couple of washers from a plastic milk jug and place them between the chuck and the head stock...plastic won't stick to plastic without a lot of heat. That's how we resolved the issue.
WB
 
I have tried just about all these suggestions over the weekend. The faceplate still hasn't budged but I now have a steady wobble. I think the darn thing is welded on. Silver lining, I just ordered my new Rikon 70-220 and I now have a dedicated buffing station.

Thanks to all who offered advice.
 
Congrats on the new lathe!

I will give one more suggestion just as an FYI.

Take a piece of flat steel at least 1/8" thick by about 1.5 to 2" wide. Have a big nut welded onto it in the center. Drill the steel and bolt to faceplate, then use a power impact wrench with socket on the nut and start giving it a go.
Again, a strap wrench on the hand wheel. This in addition to solvents may do the trick.
 
aggie182 said:
I am currently having this issue. It's frustrating! I just sprayed some WD40 and came in to let it hopefully soak in to the threads.
Click to expand...


There are many good responses in this thread. When you do get it free and it will come off. remember to add a plastic spacer washer so it does not happen again and use that for all chucks or thread on items.
 
Here is what I did.

Took a 2x6 cut a hole with a hole saw that the indexing handle/wheel just fit in. Cut a slot to the hole, remove a small section. Drill through the end and then inset all thread rod. Nut both ends with big washers in front of the nuts. Use this to clamp onto the wheel. Screw whatever lever works to the faceplate, now you have two big ole cheater bars. Leave the 2 x 6 long so it locks against the bench or the wall, clamp it on and them go lefty loosey or something like that.

If it slips add some of that rubber, grippy shelf liner stuff and re- tighten.

The problem is applying leverage without bending something and without cooking the grease out of the headstock bearings. No beating on the lathe. No trying to lever a strap wrench one way and the faceplate the other. The bench or the wall is your other helper or the deadman.



Here's the concept I'm describing.

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b5b8178f33d3f4f6a909f29b25ea43d1.jpg




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I'm not quite following, but will reread later when I am home from the office. I am a complete idiot with all things mechanical. Hopefully I can get this dang faceplate off, I spent $120 on parts to drill blanks and can't use them yet. I used some WD40 yesterday, but it didn't seem to help. I tried right away, tried 30 minutes later, then finially several hours later before giving up for the night.
 
It might be a reversed thread. Righty loosey, lefty tighty.
The opposite of a normal thread.

Try that before wacking it anymore.
 
Does the face plate have holes in it?? If so then the best method is leverage. Place some strong bolts in the holes and use a pry bar or pipe between 2 opposite bolts and apply steady pressure. If it does not have holes you can always drill a couple in there and have no bad affect on the plate.
 
Brian G said:
Use the spindle lock knob to lock the spindle
Click to expand...


This is NOT a good idea. The Turncrafter lathe doesn't have a true spindle lock. There is an indexing device, but it uses a plastic toothed wheel, and if you try to use it as a spindle lock, you will break off teeth. DAMHIKT. There is a video by SP Wood Art on replacing the wheel if gets broken - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CD9Gv5TU24.

My experience is that the challenge is getting a good grip on both the fixing (in this case, the faceplate) and the handwheel. Fortunately, there is enough space between the handwheel and headstock housing to get a slip-joint wrench onto the shaft. Combining that with a piece of wood screwed to the faceplate should provide enough torque to break it loose.

Using a plastic washer helps prevent this problem, but won't eliminate it altogether (DAMHIKT either). But if you do use a plastic washer, be sure to check it for flatness first - if the washer isn't absolutely flat, it can introduce runout when it is under a chuck. (Another DAMHIKT). It's easy to make your own plastic washer from a coffee can lid or the plastic mailer that income tax software comes in, but unfortunately the material used to make those items doesn't get a lot of quality control scrutiny, and the thickness isn't uniform.
 
I do have 4 holes in the faceplate. I will try the 2x4 method, but holding the handwheel will be the next issue. I am going to end up using this as an excuse to buy some new tools.

There are also flat spots on the sides of the faceplate, but they're just smaller than my wrench so I can't put the wrench on very far.
 
aggie182 said:
I do have 4 holes in the faceplate. I will try the 2x4 method, but holding the handwheel will be the next issue. I am going to end up using this as an excuse to buy some new tools.

There are also flat spots on the sides of the faceplate, but they're just smaller than my wrench so I can't put the wrench on very far.
Click to expand...

... holding the handwheel ...

Grab another 2x4, drill some holes in it about the same distance apart as your handwheel is across ...

Get some spare strap clamps, a bunch of plastic zip-ties, rope, whatever ... and secure the 2x4 to the handwheel.



... just smaller than my wrench ...

You have spare wrenches? Take one to your grinder/sander and grind the sides down enough for it to fit!
 
You are making The clamp to go around the handwheel. Use it to lock the handwheel, that's why I said a 2x6 because you need a hole big enough to go around the handwheel. My handwheel is about 3 1/8" in diameter. That hole size doesn't leave much meat on a 3 1/2" 2x4. Leave it long so it will lock against the bench or the wall.

Those pictures show you how to make a clamp with a board. The second or black one shows what the board should be cut like.

The faceplate is already set up to screw things to it. You may have to drill through the board you are attaching to it and use small bolts because it will be hard to get a screw though the back with it on the headstock.


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
 
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oldtoolsniper said:
You are making The clamp to go around the handwheel. Use it to lock the handwheel, that's why I said a 2x6 because you need a hole big enough to go around the handwheel. My handwheel is about 3 1/8" in diameter. That hole size doesn't leave much meat on a 3 1/2" 2x4. Leave it long so it will lock against the bench or the wall.

Those pictures show you how to make a clamp with a board. The second or black one shows what the board should be cut like.

The faceplate is already set up to screw things to it. You may have to drill through the board you are attaching to it and use small bolts because it will be hard to get a screw though the back with it on the headstock.


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Click to expand...


Thanks! I am visualizing it now.
 
What type of lathe is it? My Oneway, has two flats on the spindle that fit a special wrench to lock the spindle in place. Then there is a hole in the face plate, that fits a bar, to torque the faceplate off.
 
darrin1200 said:
What type of lathe is it? My Oneway, has two flats on the spindle that fit a special wrench to lock the spindle in place. Then there is a hole in the face plate, that fits a bar, to torque the faceplate off.
Click to expand...

Turncrafter Commander lathe. There are flats, but they're a bit small for the wrench I have. I need to get another one. The faceplate has 4 holes. When I have some time, I am going to bolt a 2x4 to it and hope that helps.
 
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What finally worked to get it off.
Make sure you cut a plastic washer to put behind it, the washer won't prevent it from sticking 100% but it seems to help.

Now you have to get brave enough to put it back on there when you need to use it again.


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