Soldering Wire as a Filler?
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Texatdurango
Member
I would say it would. I used to make pendants embedding sterling silver and fine silver wire. The excess turned just fine and I'm guessing solder would turn even easier.
pianomanpj
Member
It should work without any problems, but you may have a problem with it smearing during sanding. Good luck!
Good point! Who knows if I'll ever get around to it, I just thought it would be a quick and easy filler.
pianomanpj
Member
Hank (leehljp) had an issue with smearing as well. Below is his thread (and very impressive pen!) on how he successfully dealt with it.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38213&highlight=30+pieces+silver
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38213&highlight=30+pieces+silver
wood-of-1kind
Member
I made a pen using solder to fill 'voids' actually circles in my case. Smearing as been mentioned is a drawback, but also weight. The pen is particularly heavy but 'interesting'. As I was turning, some of the solder voids came out since there is a lot of pressure exerted. By using a heavy dose of CA, I managed to keep it intact. Not a great looking pen, but certainly the novelty of turning solder was fun. Solder does not bond to wood that well as it's 'morphing' into the void.
Can post a picture if you desire.
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Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
Are you sure you would want to market a pen that has lead on it's surface?????
No, like I said- It just popped into my head and I know that folks around here would know the answer/give recommendations. Yours is well noted! Thanks!
pipecrafter
Member
A lot of artisans use lead-free solid wire solder as a casting medium when they're doing just a couple small castings. Real casting pewter is about the same price, but can be difficult to find locally, and the solder is as close as the nearest hardware store.
One thing to keep in mind is that solder typically melts around 425 F, and depending on specific alloy, it can be significantly higher. Also, you may find it difficult to get the solder into a small void once it's melted, as it actually has incredibly high surface tension and you might not be able to get any capillary action to draw it into the void.
Another gotcha is to use solid core if you plan on melting it. Rosin core solder can be messy, and I'm sure acid core will make a mess too - though I have no direct experience with it.
You may be able to make it work by setting your soldering iron to the highest possible heat and working quickly and delicately to "smoosh" the solder into the hole - similar to the way wax burn-in is done.
One thing to keep in mind is that solder typically melts around 425 F, and depending on specific alloy, it can be significantly higher. Also, you may find it difficult to get the solder into a small void once it's melted, as it actually has incredibly high surface tension and you might not be able to get any capillary action to draw it into the void.
Another gotcha is to use solid core if you plan on melting it. Rosin core solder can be messy, and I'm sure acid core will make a mess too - though I have no direct experience with it.
You may be able to make it work by setting your soldering iron to the highest possible heat and working quickly and delicately to "smoosh" the solder into the hole - similar to the way wax burn-in is done.
pipecrafter
Member
Lead free solder is readily available, and in a lot of cases is more available than regular leaded solder. If you look at the shelves at your local big-box hardware store, most of the solder you find will be lead free. It's primarily tin, antimony, and in some case bismuth, zinc, and/or copper - depending on purpose and required melting temp.
PR_Princess
Member
Not all solder has lead in it, and lead free solder is readily available at most stained glass shops or at your local plumbing supplier.
In addition to getting the solder to "stick" into place, I would have a concern that you might char the surrounding wood. Unless, of course that is a look that you might be going after!:biggrin:
In addition to getting the solder to "stick" into place, I would have a concern that you might char the surrounding wood. Unless, of course that is a look that you might be going after!:biggrin:
PR_Princess
Member
LOL Kurt beat me to it!!
pipecrafter
Member
I'm quick on the draw! :biggrin:
DurocShark
Member
Adhesion is a problem. But can be resolved with a thin coat of varnish in the area where the solder is going. It will melt with the solder bonding it to the wood. (No need if you're doing it in PR, though I've never tried. May melt through the blank.)
After starting this thread, I did see in the Library that there is a copper pen wire solder filled in between. Soldering paste was applied before the solder to help it "stick". So I'm assuming that would be the best thing to use.