Pentel "Casing" Pencil

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rherrell

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I'm not absolutely sure but I think this is a first. At least I couldn't find any doing a search for "Pentel".
It's a Pentel pencil in a 25.06 casing with antler.......
attachment.jpg

It was actually pretty simple. I soldered an 8mm tube in and left it long enough to reach a little more than half way up the antler. I drilled a 5/16" hole half way for the tube and a letter "F" hole for the eraser. The hardest part was making the wooden spacer for the finial. It was 1/4" with a 3/16" hole in the back and a 5/32" thru hole for the threads to fit through. Not alot of room for error. I also had to bevel the case mouth to match the finial on the pencil.
attachment.jpg


The brass is powdercoated clear and the antler is sealed with thin CA and MM to 12000.
Thanks for looking.:wink:

I forgot to mention that it's for an accountant friend and it will be strictly a desk pencil so he didn't want a clip.

If I can find a tap I'm going to make one with a bullet for the nib. I have some solid copper ones so all I have to do is cut one in half and thread it, I think.:biggrin::confused:
 

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its_virgil

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Jan 1, 2004
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Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
I like it. I like what you did to make this pencil. Nice modification and adaptation.

I've not tried to solder brass tubes into rifle cases as several others have mentioned. I would think the heat would discolor the brass. Evidently I'm mistaken. Could you share a little of how the soldering is done...what is the heat source...what kind of solder...flux...how to keep the brass from discoloring.

Thanks Rick for showing this pencil....ONce again, nice job.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

I'm not absolutely sure but I think this is a first. At least I couldn't find any doing a search for "Pentel".
It's a Pentel pencil in a 25.06 casing with antler.......
It was actually pretty simple. I soldered an 8mm tube in and left it long enough to reach a little more than half way up the antler. I drilled a 5/16" hole half way for the tube and a letter "F" hole for the eraser. The hardest part was making the wooden spacer for the finial. It was 1/4" with a 3/16" hole in the back and a 5/32" thru hole for the threads to fit through. Not alot of room for error. I also had to bevel the case mouth to match the finial on the pencil.The brass is powdercoated clear and the antler is sealed with thin CA and MM to 12000.
Thanks for looking.:wink:

I forgot to mention that it's for an accountant friend and it will be strictly a desk pencil so he didn't want a clip.

If I can find a tap I'm going to make one with a bullet for the nib. I have some solid copper ones so all I have to do is cut one in half and thread it, I think.:biggrin::confused:
 

dwpenworks

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Oct 6, 2005
Messages
49
Location
Indiana, USA.
that is truly impressive. Have always been impressed with the modifications you come up with on his kind of stuff. Keep it coming!
 

jskeen

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Oct 11, 2007
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Crosby, Texas, USA.
That's excellent. I've been looking for a way to make a matching pen/pencil set and still use the pentel mech. Problem solved!!! The bullet nib may look more natural, but I'm betting that the pentel nib with the extention tube sleeving the lead may sell just as well or better, cause that's one of the major reasons that pencil is used so extensively by engineers and draftsmen. I think I may do a few sets using chrome slimline parts on a 30-06 casing and the pentel parts on a 25-06.
 

rherrell

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Aug 22, 2006
Messages
6,334
Location
Pilot Mountain, NC
I like it. I like what you did to make this pencil. Nice modification and adaptation.

I've not tried to solder brass tubes into rifle cases as several others have mentioned. I would think the heat would discolor the brass. Evidently I'm mistaken. Could you share a little of how the soldering is done...what is the heat source...what kind of solder...flux...how to keep the brass from discoloring.

Thanks Rick for showing this pencil....ONce again, nice job.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Thanks for all the comments.:)
Don, I use a Weller 80w soldering iron for the heat source. I turned the tip down to about 3/16" on my metal lathe but you can just grind it down. Or not, the smaller of the 2 tips it comes with will work but I like them even smaller. The solder is the 1/8" lead free stuff you find at Lowes in the plumbing dept.. The flux is Nokorode.... http://tinyurl.com/aqux46 , I use this to solder my leaded glass projects and it's the best. The KEY to soldering is CLEANLINESS. Scuff with sandpaper and apply flux LIBERALLY.
As for discoloration, yes it happens but it's easily removed. I use 600 then 800 wet/dry paper, used dry, to remove the discoloration and scratches and then I buff on a sewn wheel with blue buffing compound. Cleans it right up!:)
One more thing, I countersink the hole I drill in the casing just a little so the solder has somewhere to go. That way when I clean up the excess with a skew I don't remove it all.
Thanks again for all the comments.
 

stoneman

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Joined
Sep 17, 2007
Messages
481
Location
Waterbury, VT, USA.
Thanks for all the comments.:)
Don, I use a Weller 80w soldering iron for the heat source. I turned the tip down to about 3/16" on my metal lathe but you can just grind it down. Or not, the smaller of the 2 tips it comes with will work but I like them even smaller. The solder is the 1/8" lead free stuff you find at Lowes in the plumbing dept.. The flux is Nokorode.... http://tinyurl.com/aqux46 , I use this to solder my leaded glass projects and it's the best. The KEY to soldering is CLEANLINESS. Scuff with sandpaper and apply flux LIBERALLY.
As for discoloration, yes it happens but it's easily removed. I use 600 then 800 wet/dry paper, used dry, to remove the discoloration and scratches and then I buff on a sewn wheel with blue buffing compound. Cleans it right up!:)
One more thing, I countersink the hole I drill in the casing just a little so the solder has somewhere to go. That way when I clean up the excess with a skew I don't remove it all.
Thanks again for all the comments.

Brasso will also remove the discoloration from soldering and it really cleans/shines the rest of the case as well.
 

Rangertrek

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Sep 10, 2008
Messages
2,104
Location
Bossier City, Louisiana, USA
Very Nice!

Really nice modification on that pencil. I have been wanting to do something like that; but, my experience level is not on a level with yours.

I want to do some pentels in wood, as my office is full of architects and drafters that use those pencils all the time. I will eventually try one of the tutorials and see what happens.

Again, great pencil!
 

VisExp

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Oct 1, 2007
Messages
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Location
Palm Coast, FL, USA.
That's an awesome job Rick. I really like the taper you put in the antler at the clicky end. I admire your engineering in putting this together.
 
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