Maybe I'm getting too picky..

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Scruffy

Scruffy

Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2013
Messages
345
Location
Alabama
But...

When using bushing, all too frequently I don't get the fit I am entirely happy with.

Too often, I find that I get what I consider as too much of an "edge" between the turned barrel and a fitting.

I started measuring the fittings and the bushings and find in some cases the difference is as much as .06 inches.

I don't consider that close enough.

Any thoughts? Maybe I'm too picky.

Alan
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
No! You are not being too picky.

In fact, when I use bushings they tend to get smaller and smaller with each use.

Additiinally, you can take 100 identical component sets bought at the same time and many will have different diameters.

For this reason, I use calipers to get an exact measurement at each joint intersection. It takes a minute or two longer, but I promise it will GREATLY enhance your final fit and finish.
 
Bushings are only a guide to get you close. Get some calipers (digital is easier) and measure the actual components you will be pressing in. Finish each end to the actual size of the component. I have a dry erase board in my shop and I measure the Nib, Center, Center , Finial of the components and write them down for quick reference when sanding down. I typically turn to actual size, sand down 0.05mm below the actual size and build back 0.05-0.10mm above w/ CA. Then I wet sand and polish back to actual finished size again. Building it over gives a little wiggle room to sand through any ridges that could have formed when building it back up.
 
Scruffy said:
But...

When using bushing, all too frequently I don't get the fit I am entirely happy with.

Too often, I find that I get what I consider as too much of an "edge" between the turned barrel and a fitting.

I started measuring the fittings and the bushings and find in some cases the difference is as much as .06 inches.

I don't consider that close enough.

Any thoughts? Maybe I'm too picky.

Alan
Click to expand...

IF you are consistently getting an "edge", where the turned material is larger than it should be, reduce the size of the bushings! This can be done with "wet-dry" sandpaper.

And yes, the caliper is a good idea as is measuring each component to be certain you have not had a slight change in one kit.
 
I've been making alot of cigar style pens lately, i mic each pen set before i finish the blank. I have a set of bushings from Johnnycnc, but i only use them to get me close.
 
I see the bushings as means to get me close to the correct size. Once I get close, then I'll start using the calipers to ensure a nice fit.
 
I was working in my shop yesterday and realized next to my lathe I my digital calipers more than than most anything else. I use them to measure the tube to drill, to measure parts etc. I would have a hard time with out them.
 
Scruffy said:
I don't consider that close enough.

Any thoughts? Maybe I'm too picky.

Alan
Click to expand...

My first thought - congrats! That's a great sign of someone ready to take the next step up in their skills. I have seen pens make by turners who never break that realization.

Like the others above have said - a digital calipers is an excellent investment.
 
If you guys from the US went metric instead of imperial, reading a decent set of veniers wouldn't be such a hard ask! Musings from Australia.
 
May sure your lathe is turning real true. If not you can not get the pen to match up well on all sides. I am working through that issue now.
Also;
While we are on this topic.
I turn lots of euros with tenons, in both wood and acrylic. It seems that if I turn the tenon prior to the final finish it rounds the edge on the pen blank.
Any comments on that, maybe I am missing something.
 
Tom T said:
Mine do both. With a very large screen. Still need glasses.
Click to expand...

When I'm using calipers to fit pen barrels to hardware, I never even bother to turn on the digital readout. I simply measure the hardware, lock down the caliper and turn and finish the pen barrel until it fits the hardware exactly.

I have maybe two dozen sets of calipers. When I'm making a particular set (say roller balls, for example) , I batch process all of the same hardware. First I use four sets of calipers and lock each caliper at the correct setting that corresponds to the "joint" it fits -1 for the clip, 1 for the center band, one for the nib fitting, and 1 for the finial. THEN I quickly make sure that all of the sets I'm about to make fit the calipers. Those that don't fit exact (usually no more than 6 or 7 sets) get set aside. When I've made all the hardware that match, I then reset the calipers.

I have a magnet bar on my lathe stand where calipers 1, 2,3,4 stay. IF THE HARDWARE MATCHES THE BARRELS, I could care less about what the numbers read.

Respectfully submitted.
 
Great idea. Can't wait for a caliper sale.
Thank you for the help.
What is your zip code I'm headed to Georgia for more good help. LOL
 
Tom T said:
Great idea. Can't wait for a caliper sale.
Thank you for the help.
What is your zip code I'm headed to Georgia for more good help. LOL
Click to expand...

Harbor Freight frequently puts the 6 inch digitals on sale for $9.99 AND SOMETIMES you can combine it with a coupon. They AREN'T the greatest calipers, but as long as they will lock, they are accurate enough.
 
Tom T said:
May sure your lathe is turning real true. If not you can not get the pen to match up well on all sides. I am working through that issue now.
Also;
While we are on this topic.
I turn lots of euros with tenons, in both wood and acrylic. It seems that if I turn the tenon prior to the final finish it rounds the edge on the pen blank.
Any comments on that, maybe I am missing something.
Click to expand...

I made a tenon parting tool from a DeWalt Recp. saw blade. it is JUST thick enough not to flex and cuts a very nice "true" tenon. I use this tool to both make and touch up tenons.

If making a thin blade parting tool is too much work, just snag a steak knife from the kitchen. They make good tenon tools, too:biggrin:
 
Image Detail for - Dial Caliper

This is a great discussion and here we go a beginner needs to get a good caliper what would be used in your shop. Harbor freight has one for less than $20. and there are others. What do you recommend.

I noticed this the other day on making Wall Street II pens I think my original bushings are getting smaller and need to order a new set but this is the true mark using a caliper. bob
 
bobs pens 1 said:
Image Detail for - Dial Caliper

This is a great discussion and here we go a beginner needs to get a good caliper what would be used in your shop. Harbor freight has one for less than $20. and there are others. What do you recommend.

I noticed this the other day on making Wall Street II pens I think my original bushings are getting smaller and need to order a new set but this is the true mark using a caliper. bob
Click to expand...


Why order new ones??? You are only going to ruined those too. This way here you are now past the point of taking steel off with your tools. That dulls them. I do not care if it reads metric or english. If the numbers match you are good to go. Everyone has their method that works for them. I would not be in favor of locking calipers. Need to many. One set is all that is needed. If you are doing a mass amount you will start to get a feel for when enough is enough.
 
I don't mess with digital calipers anymore.Not accurate enough and if the battery gets weak the numbers are all over the place.Dial calipers are the way to go.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom