Any hints on red palm?

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dankc908

dankc908

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Mar 24, 2009
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Council Bluffs, IA
I turned a red palm blank this past weekend and it came out OK. However, I didn't take it down as far as I wanted to (a bit proud of the bushings) since I had finally gotten it to the point where there was no 'tear-out' showing on the blank. How do others turn this beautiful material successfully? It does make a nice Diplomat pen, however!
 
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With black palm I just kept tools as sharp as I could, and used my skew a lot. Light cuts and I was able to get it down where it needed to be.
 
Asharp skew as mentioned but as you turn soak it with thin ca glue, actully stabilizes it as you turn. Also before you put the blank on your lathe put some thin ca on the ends and it should helkp keep it together better as well
 
Sharp tools, light cuts as above, thin CA glue to stabilise and stop the small break aways from the blank, ends are the most important to CA as Seer says!
 
And always Always cut from high to low so the fibers are supported by the rest of the wood. If you cut "up hill" the fibers you are cutting will have no support and you will have them tear out for sure.

and it won't hurt to make the blank "not square" with a saw or sanding disk so those first few (also unsupported) cuts don't tear out all the way down.
 
I would say gouge and scrapers only. Personally I just use a sharp gouge and sandpaper.

If you use your skew for say a peeling or planing cut you will be very unhappy, as you most likely will have a load of tear out and splinters.
 
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I just made a game call with red and black palm with lots of beads and coves. I used a 3/8" Thompson detail gouge and a 1" skew. The key here is SHARP.

It sold before I could photograph it.
 
All good advice. Thin CA, sharp tools, turn as far down on the ends as you dare and finish the ends with sand paper.. I usually chip out a couple before I give in to this method... lol
 
Dan -- The palm are lots easier to turm if they are professionally stabalized - but the straight stuff is fun to work with.

CA finish brings out the colors of the long fibers well. One of my wife's favorite woods.
 
I dont know about Red Palm I havent turned that, but I just finished one out of Black Palm. After having many blowouts and ruining alot of blanks. Finally soaking the ends and after round soaking the entire blank in thin CA. It turned out and actually turned decent. So, if I was doing any Palm at all I would guess that would be the best way.
 
I don't turn red palm, I have a wood that does not tear out like the red palm and looks just as good if not better, it is called Hala and it is not even in the Palm family but it is a great wood to work with, I am sure some on IAP have worked Hawaiian Hala before, I wish I had a picture of a pen to show you. Looks like I will have to make one and take a picture. Aloha.

Chris "Kalai"
 
Kalai said:
I don't turn red palm, I have a wood that does not tear out like the red palm and looks just as good if not better, it is called Hala and it is not even in the Palm family but it is a great wood to work with, I am sure some on IAP have worked Hawaiian Hala before, I wish I had a picture of a pen to show you. Looks like I will have to make one and take a picture. Aloha.

Chris "Kalai"
Click to expand...

I'm looking forward to a picture of it!
 
One thing I've found really helps with splintery wood is to soak the ends in thin CA before turning but after gluing in the tubes and squaring.
 
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