Bullet casing pens

[ragz]

Hi guys

Got a question or two on bullet pens if anyone can help...

I finally got a few 30-06 casings to use with the Euro kit for a USMC clip I've been working on

My questions are...
Is it neccessary to drill out the cap end of the casing or will removing the cap provide enough room for the transmission?

Is there an easy way to knock out the cap?

I noticed that the pen nib is a bit smaller then the casing at the slug point. When using a Nib is there a way to snug this up without crimping the casing?

Also unless I'm missing something it looks like the kit tube is 2mm short of the casing on 30-06. Do you have to use a longer tube on this type of mod? or do you just remove a bit off the casing?

Last question - How do you secure the kit tube and or nib to the casing?

Thanks in advance for info

 

[LabTrnr]

I've done a number of cartridge pens and I can answer your questions. The easiest way to make a cartridge pen is to buy a ready prepped cartridge from Sylvanite, do a search in the classifieds and you should find him. If you want to use cartridges you have, then there are a couple things you need to do. The primer end will need to be drilled out, I've carefully drilled through the primer with a 7mm bit. You need to be as close to centered as possible. A 30-06 cartridge is slightly longer than a standard slimline or Euro tube so you will have to get some longer tube. I bought some at Woodcraft and also ordered some from Woodturningz, just check around. The bullet end of a 30 caliber cartridge matches up with a slimline nib but the tube is slightly smaller than the inside of the cartridge so what I've done is used some aluminum duct tape to wrap around the pen tube to shim to the cartridge size. Then just CA glue the tube in place and turn the upper barrel as normal. Hope this all makes sense.

 

[rmelton]

I'm sure you already know this but a reminder never hurts, if you are drilling a cartridge with a primer make sure the primer is not a live primer, that could hurt.

 

[Monty]

For a more detailed version for making one, check out this page -
http://woodenwonderstx.com/bulletpen.html

 

[Sylvanite]

As LabTrnr said, I sell rifle cartridges already drilled, assembled, coated, and ready to go. If, however, you want to make a pen from your own fired case, I suggest depriming it before drilling. The firing pin indentation is pretty much guaranteed to be off-center, and it will act like a pilot hole - yielding an off-center hole.

There are inexpensive tools made for depriming cases, or you can knock it out with a homemade tool (such as a brad in the end of a dowel). The primer pocket might still be non-concentric, but it's much closer.

Regards,
Eric

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

I drilled out a live primer on a 30-06. It didn't shoot off,but it scared the hell out of me when it popped.

 

[LabTrnr]

DO NOT EVER try to drill out a live primer!! That's just begging for problems, it's not worth the risk.

 

[Hosspen]

I agree with LabTrnr. I have used copper foil instead of aluminum duct tape. I had to cut small strips then CA glue it around the end of the tube then glue this inside the bullet end of the casing. I think I may try the aluminum tape idea and add a bit of glue to the edges of the wrapped tape for insurance. It just sounds quicker to me than what I've been doing. I have found that when the 7mm tubes fit just right in the bullet then the nibs (from the pen kit) are a little big (in diameter) for the bullet casing. Good luck with those casings, I bet you'll make a nice pen!

 

[KenV]

The Kenny Maynes trick of using a short piece of the PSI Pencil Tube is a good one. The Pencil tube fits tight into the casing neck and the slimline nib fits well also. Then there is the option of drilling out a brass bullet for a nib....

Nickle plated cases do eliminate the surface finish challenges.

 

[marelton]

I use .308 Winchester shells as they are a perfect diameter for the standard twist pen nib and the tube is a fraction longer than the shell case, but this is removed when trimming.
My method of centring a tube at the nib end is to cut a small section of another 7mm tube, cut it again, but this time lengthways. This then gives you an adjustable collar to slip over the end of the main pen tube. The thickness of the collar is perfect for filling the gap between the cartridge and main tube. I then move the collar about 2mm from the end of the main tube, insert it into the cartridge case and solder in position. I use a standard barrel trimmer to square the end.

 

[cozee]

The Kenny Maynes trick of using a short piece of the PSI Pencil Tube is a good one. The Pencil tube fits tight into the casing neck and the slimline nib fits well also. Then there is the option of drilling out a brass bullet for a nib....

Nickle plated cases do eliminate the surface finish challenges.

Yep, 8mm pencil tubing from Woodturningz. I do not use glue anymore as I solder everything together. One must take care when installing the transmission though as a soldered joint does not allow for any expansion. However the finished casing and tube is nice and solid. Bullet proof if I may say so!!!!!!!

If you are wanting to use a bullet for the nib, get the solid copper ones. I typically melt the lead out prior to drilling but safety can be an issue here. Solid copper bullets eliminate any possible safety concerns connected with lead. Or after the sale when someone's toddler is gnawing on the pen!!

 

[ScribbleSticks]

I use heat shrink tubing on the nib end of the 7mm tube.

 

[workinforwood]

Not to change the subject too much, but this may be another question the author of this post will have, and I certainly do too. I drilled a couple of the bullets, hollow points. I used the tiny bit and bored in, the bit gets clogged with lead. Eventually I get through the other side, then flip the bullet and drill in with a larger bit. It's gets all stuck with lead..the lead seems to come out some sticking to the back of the bullet and clogging the small entry hole. It's a huge PIA. Once I bite that larger hole in the back of the bullet, is there an easy way to get that lead out. Does all the lead come out...dang lead!!! AAAAARGHHHinfarfin!!!

 

[rherrell]

Not to change the subject too much, but this may be another question the author of this post will have, and I certainly do too. I drilled a couple of the bullets, hollow points. I used the tiny bit and bored in, the bit gets clogged with lead. Eventually I get through the other side, then flip the bullet and drill in with a larger bit. It's gets all stuck with lead..the lead seems to come out some sticking to the back of the bullet and clogging the small entry hole. It's a huge PIA. Once I bite that larger hole in the back of the bullet, is there an easy way to get that lead out. Does all the lead come out...dang lead!!! AAAAARGHHHinfarfin!!!

Jeff, I no longer drill the lead out, I melt it out. I also use hollow points and the first thing I do is drill out the back (copper only) with a #2 center drill. Now I take it outside so as not to inhale lead fumes. Hold the bullet over a metal container with some needle nose pliers and heat it with a propane torch, the kind used for soldering copper water pipe. The lead falls right out. Next I use a 5/64" bit by hand to clean out the point. Sand with 600 W/D paper(used dry) and polish on the buffung wheel.
When I was drilling it out I did it a little different than you. I put it in a Beall with the back exposed and I start with a #2 center bit for a pilot. Switch to a 9/64" with a stop collar and drill the lead out. Then I switch to the 5/64" bit and drill from the back through the point. I did all the drilling from the back.
I totally agree that drilling the lead out is a real PITA and it takes FOREVER!. Try melting it out and you'll NEVER go back!:wink:

 

[workinforwood]

Thanks Rick...just one more little one now. The torch on the bullet will leave some black of course and that's just carbon, no problem, but what about actual metal color disfiguration, like when the metal becomes like a rainbow?

 

[Sylvanite]

is there an easy way to get that lead out.

Well, I'm probably shooting myself in the foot (so to speak), telling how to make what I sell, but the trick to drilling lead is to lubricate the drill bit. I dip (used to spray, but dipping wastes less) the bit in WD-40 each time before drilling and the lead just spirals right out.

I ruined a lot of bullets and broke a lot of drill bits before I figured that out. Now it takes me less time to drill a bullet than to chuck it up.

Regards,
Eric

 

[Sylvanite]

I no longer drill the lead out, I melt it out. I take it outside so as not to inhale lead fumes.

There's no way you're going to get the lead hot enough to vaporize. The primary hazard with molten lead is burns, not inhalation.

I totally agree that drilling the lead out is a real PITA and it takes FOREVER!. Try melting it out and you'll NEVER go back!

With well-lubricated bits, the drilling is much faster and easier. Try it - you might go back, lol.

Regards,
Eric

 

[rherrell]

You might be right about the fumes, Eric, but I smell SOMETHING and I'm just being cautious.
Jeff, the discoloration comes right off with the 600 grit W/D paper and I see absolutely no difference in the finished drilled or melted bullet.
As for going back to drilling, NEVER! I'd estimate that I can melt the lead out of 10 bullets in the time it takes ME to drill out 1. And the best part is I don't have to worry about that annoying little piece of lead you get every once in awhile that rattles around inside the bullet and won't come out without a fight!:beat-up:

 

[PaulDoug]

Is there a down side to using all copper bullets other than you have to buy them in large quanities.

I also only drill from the back. I never thought of drilling the large hole first. That would remove most of the lead. I've been tempted to saw a bullet in half to see what it looks like inside.

 

[Sylvanite]

Is there a down side to using all copper bullets other than you have to buy them in large quanities.

I also only drill from the back. I never thought of drilling the large hole first. That would remove most of the lead. I've been tempted to saw a bullet in half to see what it looks like inside.

There are two down-sides to using solid copper bullets. (1) They cost more, and (2) there isn't much variety to choose from. Magtech makes solid copper bullets in handgun calibers, and Barnes makes solid bullets in big-game rifle calibers. I have not yet found a suitable solid copper bullet in .308 caliber.

The bullet I have settled on for slimline pens is a readily available, moderately priced, HPBT FMJ with a polymer tip. The hollow point is just the right size, so I don't have to drill the point. I drill from the base with a center bit, and a 1/8" bit, pull the polymer tip and I'm done. The bullet is the right length so that once seated, the tube centers around the boat-tail and sits just below flush of the case head (30-06 caliber and slimline kit tube).

Most FMJ (full metal jacket) bullets are made from a drawn copper jacket and a swaged-in soft lead core. If you cut one in half, all you'd see is the lead center with a thin layer of copper around it (how thin varies with the manufacturer and bullet design). Some bullets, typically only those made for large game, may have a front and rear lead core with a copper "partititon" between them. Partition bullets are designed to expand in the front but retain the weight of the rear lead core after impact.

Regards,
Eric

 

[Bruce_R]

What finish do do you put on the shells to keep there shine so they do not retarnish.

Thanks in andance

Bruce

 

[rherrell]

Clear gloss powder coat is what I use.

 

[Bruce_R]

Where to find a Clear gloss powder coat

Never heard of it. So where do you find that and how do you apply that??

I am new to this site only been a member for about 3 days so I may not know where to find the information on the site.

thanks in advance.

Bruce

 

[rherrell]

http://store.columbiacoatings.com/
Read up on powder coating so you know what you're getting into. It's really pretty easy but it calls for an investment of about $100.

 

[PaulDoug]

Here is one other method for securing a 7mm tube into the neck of a cartridge. This is how I do it when I make the cartridge/cartridge pens, On the end you press the finial and clip on, I clean the tube, wrap some fine wire around it for about 3/8" and than lightly solder the wire in place with a thin coat of solder. Than I press the tube into the nick of the casing.

 

[cozee]

Jeff, I no longer drill the lead out, I melt it out. I also use hollow points and the first thing I do is drill out the back (copper only) with a #2 center drill. Now I take it outside so as not to inhale lead fumes. Hold the bullet over a metal container with some needle nose pliers and heat it with a propane torch, the kind used for soldering copper water pipe. The lead falls right out. Next I use a 5/64" bit by hand to clean out the point. Sand with 600 W/D paper(used dry) and polish on the buffung wheel.
When I was drilling it out I did it a little different than you. I put it in a Beall with the back exposed and I start with a #2 center bit for a pilot. Switch to a 9/64" with a stop collar and drill the lead out. Then I switch to the 5/64" bit and drill from the back through the point. I did all the drilling from the back.
I totally agree that drilling the lead out is a real PITA and it takes FOREVER!. Try melting it out and you'll NEVER go back!:wink:

I am a melter too!! But, since there is still trace amounts of lead in the bullet, this could be an issue with future owners. Converted to solid copper for most of my casing pens that get a real bullet. Most are still done with copper nibs.


Oh, use long handled pliers when melting out tracer rounds!!!!!!!!!!!!:biggrin::biggrin:

 

[bgio13]

Cozee, I was wondering what bullet you use for your bullet pens. I am looking for an all copper bullet as well but have not been able to find one. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

Bill