Turning Burl questions

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Kanxrus

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I recently purchased some Buckeye Burl (non-stabilized) I'm going through about 3-4 blanks before I can get one to turn down without exploding. Is their any tips or tricks for turning down these beauties? Should I only buy stabilized blanks?

I've only made a handful of pen's, and I progress as I go... but these burl blanks are really frustrating me.

Thanks,

-John
 
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That is why they stabilize them. They fall apart just by looking at them.
 
I use a lot of buckeye burl and none of them are stabilized. When I drill the hole for the tube I hold the blank at an angle and run ca through it until it doesn't absorb anymore. Ream it out and glue the tube in then soak the ends. Trim the ends and soak them some more. Once it's on the lathe if it starts to come apart I cover it with ca. When I'm close to finishing I cover it again. I may have to apply ca 4 or 5 times while I'm turning and occasionally fill in voids with fine sawdust. It's a lot of work and takes a lot of ca and sandpaper but it's worth it in the end.
 
Stabilizing is the best option, but if it isn't an option then you can still turn it as long as your tools are sharp. Not sharp.......SHARP!

Turn from the ends inward as the blank can blow out at the ends easily.

Dave
 
As one of the members commented above - with non stabilized blanks LOTS of CA. I put it both inside and out BEFORE turning at all. Especially those pieces that seem to have any inclusions visible to our eye. I soak the outside in CA while a full blank and let that sit at least over night. Then do the insides and ends as above and use CA to pour on the blank while turning it to keep it together throughout the process.

Linda
 
ohiococonut said:
I use a lot of buckeye burl and none of them are stabilized. When I drill the hole for the tube I hold the blank at an angle and run ca through it until it doesn't absorb anymore. Ream it out and glue the tube in then soak the ends. Trim the ends and soak them some more. Once it's on the lathe if it starts to come apart I cover it with ca. When I'm close to finishing I cover it again. I may have to apply ca 4 or 5 times while I'm turning and occasionally fill in voids with fine sawdust. It's a lot of work and takes a lot of ca and sandpaper but it's worth it in the end.
Click to expand...
I do the same process but as soon as i begin to turn i wet th surface with padding lacquer( behlin qualasole) rewet between gouge cuts and between sand grits. When i am finidhed i have a lacquer stablized buckeye burl.
 

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I rough mine with a gouge WAY oversized and then do the rest with a very sharp skew. Once I get close, I then switch to sand paper. It's slow, but it's safe.
 
I started years ago to use this method for burls.

CAUTION: DO not inhale the fumes of MEK as it is very dangerous to your system. Just try this in a very well ventilated area.

Dissolve as much clean white peanut packing material as is possible in MEK (available at most major paint centers). When the MEK will not dissolve any more, pour the mess through a fine wire screen into another jar.

Pre drill your blanks as this will help the mixture to soak in from all sides.

Put the wood into an adequately sized jar and be sure it is completely covered with at least an inch of the MEK/Peanut mixture over the top of all the blanks. Let this stuff sit overnight OR until the wood no longer will float. Do not pressurize or put under vacuum. Just let it soak.

Remove the wood and stand on end and let it dry completely. This can be several minutes or a couple of hours. When dry the wood will cut very nicely and hold together much better than if it were untreated.

Finish as usual ...

Try this and I'll bet you will be pleased with the results. Have fun and Good luck to ya! :biggrin:
 
Fred said:
Dissolve as much clean white peanut packing material as is possible
Click to expand...
Hi,
Like your method and would like to try it but not being familiar with 'peanut packaging' can you clarify if the packing material is the the normal polystytrene beads or the water soluble ones you get in Woodcraft packages.
Normal polystyrene is available here in 'banana land' but the water soluble one are not.
Thanks
Phil
 
I work epoxy into the insides of the blanks when gluing in the tubes, be sure all the inside of the wood is coated.
Rough down to .100" oversized then coat in CA and let dry. All edge cuts are from outside in. Next use a very sharp skew and take gentle cuts. If any pieces break out, CA glue the piece back in if you can find it, otherwise CA glue some shavings into the hole. After you are done, you will have a tough time finding the repair on burl wood.
 
sandpaper

Sometimes I get a really aggressive piece of sandpaper and just sand the whole thing from start to finish. I never even touch a single chisel. A power sander makes it even faster if you have the right kind. It has to have a really flexible pad to keep it from vibrating.
 
Phil ... I use clean, new packing peanuts usually. They are indeed the polystyrene peanuts.

Lately I have been experimenting with the colored meat trays that beef, chicken, etc. are on from the grocery store. The colorant in the polystyrene does change the MEK coloration a bit ... especially the orange trays. The black trays just dissolve with little color being noticed.

The color extracted from the orange/yellowish trays just seems to me to enhance the natural color of the wood, otherwise it may not do anything noticeable.

I have found that MEK dissolves the polystyrene way better that other solvents that are available to the general public. AND the dissolved polystyrene stays in suspension and does not 'glob' up and settle out quickly. Just be sure and follow all the stated precautions concerning skin contact and proper ventilation.

Have fun and be safe ... :smile:
 
Phil Hansen said:
kovalcik said:
OK I actually checked the acronym dictionary in the library and MEK is not listed so I have to ask: What is MEK?
Click to expand...

Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Used as a catalyst in resins.

Phil ... I use clean, new packing peanuts usually. They are indeed the polystyrene peanuts.
Click to expand...

Thanks Fred. Will try later.

Phil
Click to expand...

Methyl Ethyl Ketone is an extremely aggressive solvent and is usually available in the larger proge4ssional paint stores, Expect to pay $15.00 or more for a gallon. The material evaporates in short order, so keep a good lid on the can and store it away from any heat. The fumes from this stuff if as aggressive as is the liquid.

I believe the MEK that is referred to in this other post above is in reality Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide - MEKP - and this material is indeed a catalyst for some epoxies. MEK and MEKP are not interchangeable as far as I am aware.
 
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Fred said:
I believe the MEK that is referred to in this other post above is in reality Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide - MEKP - and this material is indeed a catalyst for some epoxies. MEK and MEKP are not interchangeable as far as I am aware.
Click to expand...

Thanks, did not know there was a difference.
I had a bit of old catalyst left over from some body filler so tried it on a bit of polystyrene. Not enough to make a solution but it did dissolve it.
Will get the right stuff when next in town.

[thought] Catalyst has an expiry date. Maybe this is because the peroxide has a function in the curing and when it evaporates it looses that curing power. (it becomes plain MEK) [/thought]

Phil
 
Turning any burl requires a little extra patience. Don't try to take too much off on a single pass. Sharp tools are a must no matter what you're turning, but especially with burls. Be careful toward the ends of the blank or pieces could chip out and cause you to curse. :D

Sharp tools.
Light passes.

You'll be all set.
 
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