finishing between centers question

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rimo

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Jan 7, 2008
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Attleboro, MA, USA.
I just started using the dead center method but have run into a small problem. I am not using any buhings when it comes to applying the finish. I have been using the BLO/CA finish but now find that the finish runs over the sides of the blank.

What is the best way to remove the excess BLO/CA and resquare the blank and tube without tearing or damaging the finish on the surface? I have basically been paring it off with a knife but have found that it is still somewhat uneven and does not provide a great fit to the hardware.

Would remounting the pen on the drill press and resquaring with the pen mill be too aggressive and cause tear out? Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Texatdurango

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Apr 23, 2007
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Show Low, Arizona
I make delrin spacers for all my tubes then I use the four tipped end mill with the proper snug fitting delrin bushing, turning it by hand. A sharp endmill will shave off the excess CA with ease and little pressure, a dull one wants to grab the entire blank!

Actually I find that having the CA flow over to the ends is a good thing as it helps seal the endgrain from drawing in moisture or absorbing liquids as much.
 

leehljp

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If there is a lot, I use a very sharp razor knife but do it slowly and patiently. Then I clean it up with the sander mill noted by TowMater above.
 

IPD_Mrs

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Jun 27, 2007
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Zionsville, Indiana
We have been doing this method for quite some time now and here is the easiest way we have found to deal with the extra CA on the edges as well as on the centers. First like Hank said, use a sharp utility knife and start cutting at the tail end about 1/16" beyond the blank. Slowly turn the head stock while holding the knife. Once the tail end is free from the live center repeat for the head and the dead center. Once the blank is free from the centers here is the fun part....
If you do not have one of Lee's sanding mills use a 3/4" mill mounted backwards on the 7mm pilot shaft. Take some self adhesive sandpaper and mount a piece on the flat surface of the mill. Chuck it up with the appropriate sleeve for the size blank you have and sand the excess CA off slowly. You do not want to build up too much heat when you do this especially with heat sensitive wood.

Soak you centers in acetone to remove the CA. Also we have found that from time to time the blanks and or the bushings will spin free when the tail stock is not tight enough and will create some scratches in the smooth surface of the centers. This can cause you problems if the scratches become too deep so you need to remove them without getting the centers out of round. So we will take a 5/16" dowel rod that is ball park 5-6 inches long and mount it between the 60 degree centers. Turn the lathe on 1400 rpm and use sand paper to buff the scratches out. When doing the dead center you do not need the dowel in place.

Hope this is of some help for those of you who finish between centers.

Mike & Linda
 

Firefyter-emt

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Mar 30, 2006
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Putnam, Connecticut, USA.
I too use the "Thomasville Sander Mill" ;)

My buddy Todd must of bought a knock off and not the true original if it was sold as a Thompsonvile. :D

Seriously, this was one of the main reasons I started to make them. My cutter head chipped a few while knocking off the excess and I figured there must be a better way. I like to just knock the CA level and if I can, leave a little on the blank so that the end grain is sealed as well.
 

VisExp

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Oct 1, 2007
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Palm Coast, FL, USA.
Originally posted by MLKWoodWorking

Soak you centers in acetone to remove the CA. Also we have found that from time to time the blanks and or the bushings will spin free when the tail stock is not tight enough and will create some scratches in the smooth surface of the centers. This can cause you problems if the scratches become too deep so you need to remove them without getting the centers out of round. So we will take a 5/16" dowel rod that is ball park 5-6 inches long and mount it between the 60 degree centers. Turn the lathe on 1400 rpm and use sand paper to buff the scratches out. When doing the dead center you do not need the dowel in place.

Well that would fall into the category of "way to obvious for me to have thought of" :D Thank you Mike & Linda. I have never had a problem cleaning up the dead center but have always struggled with the live center. Your solution of putting a scrap dowel between centers to get the live center to turn is the obvious solution. Sure wish I'd been smart enough to figure that one out [:I] [:I]

Sometimes I worry about me :D
 
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