Gouge Sharpening Tips Needed

After turning for quite some time and only sharpening with a hone, I splurged and got a Woodchuck Pen Pro. Amazing! Now I could get the proper tools to sharpen my old HSS tools. I bought the 8" grinder from Woodcraft and the Wolverine w/ Vari-Grind. The grinder has 60 and 120 grit wheels. I got the wheels fairly well balanced and dressed. I sharpened my spindle gouge today using the Vari-Grind and it seemed really sharp. I tested it on a blown-out PR blank and it seemed to cut REALLY aggressively with lots of chipping, no matter how careful I was. I re-ground with a slightly larger angle. This was a bit better but still chippy. The Pen Pro smoothed it out so I know it wasn't the blank. I ran out of PR blank so I mounted a piece of BOW. It cut really well but seemed aggressive too and eventually caught and cracked out a big chunk. The BOW had some cracks but I've never had an issue like this. The tool seems really sharp but just cuts too aggressively.

I'm curious if someone can tell me what is wrong... Wrong angle?... maybe I need to hone it a bit?.. should I have just used the support without using the Vari-grind to sharpen the tool?

Thanks!

Sounds like you may be cutting below centerline, not using the bevel, or being overly agressive.

If you are moving from a blunt edge to a freshly ground one, your technique will likely be to push too hard and fail to lightly ride the bevel.

If you are a bit above centerline and use the ABC approach to assure you are engaging the bevel, and you no longer need to push the cut, you should do better.

Guide is that included angles greater than 45 degrees are less tendency to grab --

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001998/2509/Wolverine-Grinding-Jig.aspx
This video may help. Scroll down about half way on page. 2 videos. You would sharpen your spindle gouge the same way he sharpens the roughing gouge. I use a 3/4 inch spindle gouge for all my pens no matter what kind of blank I turn. But I don't use it straight on, more like the Skew on / angle or \ angle, slightly rubbing the bevel at times. Then start with 400 or 600 grit paper. I very seldom use the grinder, just for the first initial edge. I restore the egde with a fine diamond file going from side to side across the bevel. I also have a short piece of dowell that fits perfect in the top side if the gouge & holding it flat to the blade run some 400 w/d paper in the top of the edge. Makes for a very sharp tool.

Are you honing after sharpening? If not the little curl of metal at the cutting edge WILL mess you up.

Poorman's way to remove it is to rub your thumb toward the cutting edge and roll that curl of metal off the end. Better way is a wetstone or diamond hone to grind it off.

Try it. You'll see a HUGE improvement in how your tools cut.

Thanks all. I believe I've got the tool position OK and I am definitely riding the bevel. The gouge feels sharper than it has ever been. It still goes from nothing to cutting like crazy with as little pressure as I can apply. On the PR blank it chips and cuts deep just like my carbide tipped Pen Pro if I take really heavy passes.

I think the burr issue may be real although I did take it to my hone after my last grind where I reduced the angle a bit and it was still unpredictable. One issue I had was that the gouge is a cheapo model and it is short so it doesn't stick out of the Vari-Grind very far. This might affect the side grind just a bit but not the end point.

Either way, I will either meet up with one of the local penturners here or head back to Woodcraft for a quick assessment with Billy.

I would still appreciate any other thoughts or comments.

Thanks,