Decal Trick

I have been busy making Decals----------here's a little trick I like.
I roll the Decal onto the pen instead of sliding it off the backing material.
I have sent a couple of samples out in the last couple of weeks to a few friends to try out and thought this might make things easier.

that is a great idea!! I will have to try that next time i put a logo on. have you ever done color logos?

If I may Add to this

With a good coating of CA decals will be practically indestructible. I have done many on wood arrows to circumvent breaking out my cresting tool. Even put on my Logo on my arrows too.
There are two companies I like to deal with whose prices are easier on the wallet. You can get both clear and white background paper (white is to make color decals.)
I use a graphics program called "Print Master" to create, adjust size, and print what I will use.
The method to use decals is:
Measure the circumference around the section of barrel you want the put the decal. I use the "wrap a string around mark then measure the string" method. As well the length of the barrel. Those measurements are the maximum dimensions.
Gather the pictures/designs and make your layout. Your Decal Paper comes in standard paper sizes. Although I have had to trim one side because my printer had issues. Remember to leave a space between pictures for cutting and trimming.
Make sure you "Set" the decals with a Clear Acrylic spray paint. Don't forget this or all your work just washes away.
Personally I use a warm water with a Drop of dish detergent.
When you drop the decal in the water, it will curl up, when it starts to uncurl, wait about 20 seconds, then pull out of the water gently slide the decal Mind you, be at your lathe or where your pen barrel is at. affix your decal. Let it dry for an minimum of an hour.
apply CA as you normally do.
If you want to lay down an initial finish prior too applying a finish? Absolutely do so. Just make sure it is dry, If you want to lay down a single coat of CA... Just give it a smoothing out sanding and quick cleaning.

Here are the links to the two suppliers I use.
http://www.decalpaper.com/
http://www.papilio.com

Any more questions on decals, just ask.

I have never done a water decal pen, but being an avid model builder, I have applied hundreds of water decals.

I always wet the surface before i apply the decal. This makes it easier to move the decal into final position.

I use a needle to move the decal once it is on the piece. They usually need a little bit of fine tuning to get exactly right, so use a needle of some sort. Always "pull" the decal from the corners or edges, and never "push" the decal or try to move it from the center. Never try to move a dry decal.

You can accelerate the drying time with a hair dryer, but don't get too close or you will damage the decal. your needle, and hair dryer can also be used together to get rid of tiny air bubbles under the decal. just poke a tiny tiny hole and hit it with the dryer. The heat will shrink the decal and lay it down and the hole will allow the trapped air to escape. Be careful as you can ruin the decal doing this.


There is a spray (probably clear acrylic or something similar) sold by Testors that is made to "set" home printed water decals. If you use this setting spray, the colors will not bleed when you put finish on... (in theory)

I did my first decal pen yesterday. I went through 6 decals before I got it right. Getting it to lay down and getting the water out from under it was the big problom. I did another today and with practice you get better at it. I'm wondering if some decal papers might be better than others. I got mine at a local model shop and it really seems to want to curl.

Ken

I have tried many decal pens and just when I think I have it down something goes wrong. I have the placement of the decal down now but when I go to apply my CA finish over the decal and start with the MM steps, the decal always manages to separate from the barrel. How do I correct this problem? I always have some portion that lifts up. Also the decals are noticable on the blank itself.

Moosewatcher said:

I did my first decal pen yesterday. I went through 6 decals before I got it right. Getting it to lay down and getting the water out from under it was the big problom. I did another today and with practice you get better at it. I'm wondering if some decal papers might be better than others. I got mine at a local model shop and it really seems to want to curl.

Ken

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Ken not all decal papers are the same.

Here's the first trick----I only soak the decal until it will slide---if you use warm water we are talking something like 45 seconds.
When you first start----you will waste a few getting the hang of it.

Hope that helps

gwisher said:

I have tried many decal pens and just when I think I have it down something goes wrong. I have the placement of the decal down now but when I go to apply my CA finish over the decal and start with the MM steps, the decal always manages to separate from the barrel. How do I correct this problem? I always have some portion that lifts up. Also the decals are noticable on the blank itself.

Click to expand...

I am sure other folks have a different way of doing this but here's my small trick to fix that problem.
After I have the decal placed--I let them dry overnight-- I make these up in groups, not one at a time. The next day I know everything is dry I seal the decal with a couple coats of clear acylic. Adding this step should help.

gwisher said:

I have tried many decal pens and just when I think I have it down something goes wrong. I have the placement of the decal down now but when I go to apply my CA finish over the decal and start with the MM steps, the decal always manages to separate from the barrel. How do I correct this problem? I always have some portion that lifts up. Also the decals are noticable on the blank itself.

Click to expand...

I have that same problem. I am going to try what Gary said and see what happens.

The first ones animefan and I tried I was expecting problems with applying the finish, (we cheaped out and used lacquer) but I was expecting the decals to either curl or just melt, they didn't, we used the Testors kit, Which is way too expensive for any real use, Now I found there is a paper called Papilo that is supposed to be the pros choice, just seal it with Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic, (DO NOT) buy it at hobby lobby the stuff is 8.00 a can there!! use what ever image program you have after you secure your images to resize them and convert them to JPEG.
Now you can use WORD just plain old Makro$haft Word or a similar program use Insert and then copy to place as many images across the page as you want, Print them at high quality with ypour printer of choice and apply as gary and Ron suggested by the way our decal pens turned out good even if we did use a crap finish like lacquer.
Friday we powder coated some tubes, and I mounted some decals, put some thin CA over the decals, Surprise they didn't melt, and this afternoon I'm going to cast them in a resinsaver, BUT Does any one have a NEAT way to apply CA to a small area with out dripping it on??

I'm wondering if a decal could come from a Brother labelling machine? You can get clear tape with whatever color letters you want...just a thought. Anyone try this?

I don't think that would qualify as a decal. But there have been lots of posts about using labels. Try a search with "labels" in it.

Lee

bitshird said:

Does any one have a NEAT way to apply CA to a small area with out dripping it on??

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New London88 "Charlie" gave me some ladies make up applicators, little foam pads on a short plastic handle, that work pretty good at applying ca to a small area. They did not tend to accelerate the CA. Dont remember the brand maybe Charlie does.