Question about making a buffing setup

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JimB

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Mar 18, 2008
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West Henrietta, NY, USA.
I've read the threads on making one for the lathe. I know I can buy 1/2" all-thread rod, bolts, washers and buffing wheels and put it together. I have 2 questions.

First, what length rod do you recommend if I will mount each buff on a seperate rod?

Second, what is the best way to mount it to the headstock? Do you put the all-thread into a Jacobs chuck in the headstock? Will the threading damage the chuck or not grip well enough?

Thanks for your help.
 
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mredburn

IAP Activities Manager
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Jul 5, 2009
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Fort Myers FL
I would buy long 1/2 bolts grade 5 or 8, cut the heads off. double nut and washer rather than all thread. All thread rod is very soft and can bend easily. the 3in or longer bolst should give you enough threads for the buffs and enough shoulder for the jaws of the chuck.
 

ldb2000

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Sep 11, 2007
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Laurence Harbor, NJ, USA.
For $10 you can go to Home Depot and buy a 1/2" mandrel for buffing wheels that is meant to be used in a drill chuck . Since I don't use my drill press for drilling anymore it has become my dedicated buffing machine . I have several wheels set up for the different compounds and even one just for metals .
 

Fred

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Feb 18, 2007
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N.E. Atlanta, Georgia U.S.A.
I have used my threaded rod buffing setup for well over three years and not had any problems with it being to soft to withstand the 600-800 RPM's that I buff with. One just has to watch the RPM's and keep the tailstock good and snug.

I did turn the one end down to an MT2 taper and simply slip it into the headstock and the other end is center drilled to match the live center I put in the tailstock.

Overall it is about 36" or so and the three buffing wheels are spaced equally along the entire length of the threaded rod. I just threaded a nut, a washer, a buffing wheel, another washer, another nut and tightened them up Then spaced away a bit I repeated with the second and third buffing wheels. I keep it all assembled in one piece and just remove it when I am ready to turn something else.

I use it to do everything as far as buffing is concerned. The setup is just like the Beall one, but this threaded rod gives me a lot of extra room to move the piece around.

Be sure to keep the buffings wheels clean and do not overload with polishing materail as a little goes a long way. IF you do metal buffing be sure to use a completely different set of buffing wheels to prevent any metal transfer and discoloration onto lighter woods.
 

btboone

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Dec 5, 2004
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Location
Roswell, GA, USA.
I also still have some of the UHMW plastic mandrels used with paint rollers. One side has a Morse #2 taper and the other has a centerdrilled hole.
 
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