Tinting CA

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

ahoiberg

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
1,763
Location
Ames, IA, USA.
i've never heard of anyone trying to do that, it'd be tough to get it mixed with the quick set up of CA. let us know if you figure anything out.
 

ldb2000

Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
5,381
Location
Laurence Harbor, NJ, USA.
Thats why I'm looking for a dye that dont react with the CA I would be willing to tint a whole bottle of CA but all the dyes I've tried so far have reacted with the CA and caused it to cure...and get realllly hot [:0]



spelling oooops
 

JWW

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2007
Messages
85
Location
Johnson City, Tennessee, USA.
Try "universal" paint tint. Go by one of the borgs and take a plastic cup with you and get the paint person to dribble a little coloring in the cup and then try that. It will tint both oil and latex and maybe it will tint ca.
 

bradh

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2005
Messages
688
Location
Aurora, Ontario, Canada.
You will need a dye that is not water based, might need to be acitic as well. Water will cause the CA to set. I seem to remember that a chemist did a write up for us on how CA sets, if I remember correctly CA reacts to alkaline materials, so something on the acidic side should be more stable. I will see if I can find the chemist's write up.
Brad
 

Fred

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
3,557
Location
N.E. Atlanta, Georgia U.S.A.
Why not simply contact the manufacturer of the CA you are using and ask them for guidance?

Also, one of those that sells the stuff here in bulk might have a good suggestion. :D
 

MesquiteMan

Retired Head Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
5,678
Location
San Marcos, TX, USA.
I have tried a number of things including:

Transtint dye-This has no water in it but does not work
Transtint dye in acetone
Artist paint
Alumilite dye
various powders

None of them worked worth anything, YMMV.
 

karlkuehn

Banned
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,848
Location
Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA.
For what it's worth, here's a little secret that I've been having really good luck with - Alcohol based art markers. I use Prismacolors, but I'm sure the Tria's and others would work well.

What I do is color the blank when I've turned it down to size, and then when you apply a layer of CA, it loosens up the pigments and allows the color to bleed into the finish. You can to multiple layers depending on how much color you want in the finish, and I usually put a couple layers of clear over the top of it to keep from sanding through the color, so I do turn the blank just slightly smaller than final dimensions. Typically I use thin CA to 'set' the color, and then progressively thicker CA's depending on how much I need to build.
 

ldb2000

Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
5,381
Location
Laurence Harbor, NJ, USA.
Karl thanks but I'm not trying to color the blanks just the CA .. to color WOOD blanks I use food coloring (I use it on toys... my other hobby/bussiness) but I'm trying to tint metals without anodizing or powdercoat (soon I hope to go powdercoat...tax time soon)
 

crafttx

Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2007
Messages
5
Location
Forney, TX, USA.
I have not tried this but I wonder if it would be possible to tint the ca after finishing with the tint used for eyeglass lenses. It would be translucent and not opaque. The tint comes as a liquid that is concentrated and is used hot. I can't remember the temp but maybe 170F-210F.

You could try to get an optical shops old tint when they change it out. The color would not be true because of its aging but I know it will still tint lenses. If I can ever get my CA finish better I will try it.
 
Top Bottom