CA Finish Problems

wizical · Mar 27, 2010

Hey everyone,

I need help from the CA Experts on this one, i have no idea what is going on with my CA finish method, here is what is going on,

I first put on a coat of thin CA to seal the wood blank, then BLO.....works fine

Here is the problem i run into;
when I apply the Medium CA Glue to the wood blank, it goes on ok, but when I apply the BLO....it seems to make it worse. The finish looks tacky and when it dries, it has wavy lines in it.

I have tried using fresh CA glue and BLO, changed the RPM speed of my lathe...but I have no idea what is going on. If anyone has had this problem...please advise. Thank you

Displaced Canadian · Mar 27, 2010

Skip the BLO. I know some people swear by it I think it just complicates things.

oops99 · Mar 27, 2010

Keven,

This is a video by William Young who belongs to this group as well as others. I have been using this method since the first time I heard about it, and even though it does take some practice to get it right, it is the best and easiest method that I have ever done.
Sometimes the type of wood may have an effect on using this, but overall it is a system worth trying. I think you will like it.
Please let us know if and how it works for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

Good luck,
Tom/oops99

Pen&FishingCT · Mar 28, 2010

i was having the same problem as yours,in my own conclussion i think medium and thin ca don't get along,period.i brought the blank back to start and didn't use the medium and i was fine even near perfect.for certain reason if i'm using medium ca thats all i use thru the whole process.
hope that helps.

toddlajoie · Mar 28, 2010

I've had luck with it this way: Think of the BLO as lubricant for the paper towel, not part of the finish and not to be mixed with the CA. Generally I put the BLO on the paper towel and let it soak in a bit. Put the CA over it and apply it to the blank with light pressure to spread it out. As the CA smooths out, increase pressure on the paper towel. The BLO being soaked into it will prevent the CA from grabbing the Paper towel and embedding it in the finish (that's where I see it as a lubricant...)

gregs4163 · Mar 28, 2010

I agree with Todd! very little BLO so it doesn't mix a lot with the CA.

randywa · Mar 28, 2010

Does anyone else use wax paper to apply the CA? It seened to help me.

wolftat · Mar 28, 2010

If you are getting a wavy finish, have you tried sanding it smooth and then polishing it?

wizical · Mar 29, 2010

thanks for the help.....i changed up my CA finish and it is now almost perfect...thanks again

hurman · Apr 6, 2010

I just tried this method, practiced on one trash blank and then a personal ebony pen and I am sticking with this for now on!
I will be experimenting with Micromesh to 12K and maybe wet sanding as well, I will let you know how that goes.

Mark · Apr 6, 2010

Glad you got your process worked out. I'm still flipping around finding what works for me.

randywa said:
Does anyone else use wax paper to apply the CA? It seened to help me.

I've used wax paper, but only between my finger and the paper towel. Since I started, starting with the thin CA, then moving to the medium, I haven't needed the wax paper. The thin CA, forms a shield of sorts in the paper towel. The wax paper was no longer needed.

dontheturner · Apr 7, 2010

hurman said:
I just tried this method, practiced on one trash blank and then a personal ebony pen and I am sticking with this for now on!
I will be experimenting with Micromesh to 12K and maybe wet sanding as well, I will let you know how that goes.

Hi H, Since I started using MM to 12,000 Wet - all my Finishing ( using CA) has improved to my total satisfaction. Only problem here in Thailand, where it is nearly always 30+ degrees, is once the CA is partly used from a bottle, it starts to go thicker in the bottle very quickly. Any thoughts? Don

bradh · Apr 9, 2010

dontheturner said:
Hi H, Since I started using MM to 12,000 Wet - all my Finishing ( using CA) has improved to my total satisfaction. Only problem here in Thailand, where it is nearly always 30+ degrees, is once the CA is partly used from a bottle, it starts to go thicker in the bottle very quickly. Any thoughts? Don

I don't think it is the 30+ degrees C heat, it is likely the high humidity that comes with the heat. The humidity will activate the setting of the CA.

wolftat · Apr 9, 2010

dontheturner said:
Hi H, Since I started using MM to 12,000 Wet - all my Finishing ( using CA) has improved to my total satisfaction. Only problem here in Thailand, where it is nearly always 30+ degrees, is once the CA is partly used from a bottle, it starts to go thicker in the bottle very quickly. Any thoughts? Don

I would suggest keeping it in the refrigerator when not in use.

hewunch · Apr 9, 2010

I have had open CA harden in the fridge. But sealed is fine.

WoodNutOntario · Apr 9, 2010

I agree with Todd!

I have problems when i try and use thin and then medium/thick CA.
If i just use one of the grades it works out perfectly.

I still use the BLO/CA method and it works good for me.

Andrew

dontheturner · Apr 9, 2010

Hi Wolftat, This is an opened bottle, not the new ones, which I do keep refrigerated. Will it not be affected, as some have suggested on here, due to condensation migration, in the void? must admit, I have not experimented. Thank you dontheturner

KDM · Apr 10, 2010

I have an interesting problemette with a CA finish. This is my 7th pen with CA finish. Never seen this problem before. The damn blank got glued to the mandrel!!

I had to remove it with a hammer and a hacksaw. Made a terrible mess of my first inlay / segment pen. It's beech wood with a diagonal mahogany stripe.

themartaman · Apr 10, 2010

I use thin and medium on one pen. Sometimes thick. Best if all from same company. I have been usingZap for over 30 years building rc planes. They are the original ca company.

hunter-27 · Apr 10, 2010

http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZJxdm380YYUS

KDM said:
I have an interesting problemette with a CA finish. This is my 7th pen with CA finish. Never seen this problem before. The damn blank got glued to the mandrel!!

I had to remove it with a hammer and a hacksaw. Made a terrible mess of my first inlay / segment pen. It's beech wood with a diagonal mahogany stripe.

Glued to the madrel usually means ca in the tube. Even dried ca in the tube will soften during the heat of turning/sanding and then once cooled again, as you found out. Go get a

.

randyrls · Apr 10, 2010

KDM said:
I have an interesting problemette with a CA finish. This is my 7th pen with CA finish. Never seen this problem before. The damn blank got glued to the mandrel!!

I had to remove it with a hammer and a hacksaw. Made a terrible mess of my first inlay / segment pen. It's beech wood with a diagonal mahogany stripe.

Ken; Take some wax to your mandrel and bushings. Coat the mandrel and bushings, even inside the hole in the bushings. You should not have any problems after that. I use a tapered delrin rod mounted on the mandrel with a size "D" hole in it.

KDM · Apr 12, 2010

hunter-27 said:
Even dried ca in the tube will soften during the heat of turning/sanding

Damn. Yes. Of course.

KDM · Apr 12, 2010

randyrls said:
Ken; Take some wax to your mandrel and bushings.

Just regular candle wax?

chrisk · Apr 13, 2010

Dear colleagues,
a few days ago, I finished two kits with CA (1 Jr Gent and 1 Majestic). At the beginning I had a sore throat but for 3 days I experienced a loss of voice.
And this at the time when I started to see some performance with the CA finish…

Meanwhile I even bought the mask with the charcoal filters but considering the aforementioned health problems I do not know if I will try CA finish again.
Previously, I used Hot Stuff and Chestnut CA which irritated especially the nasal channels. Thereafter I started to use the Titebond CA. At the beginning I found that it did not irritate the nasal channels at all but I felt an embarrassment with the throat. Two days after came the loss of voice…

themartaman · Apr 14, 2010

chrisk, hook up a fan to blow fumes away from you. Even a small one works great. Larry

chrisk · Apr 14, 2010

Thanks for the advice Larry. But first I'll wait to recover my voice and maybe afterwards... the fan + mask with charcoal.

randyrls · Apr 14, 2010

KDM said:
Just regular candle wax?

Candle wax should work. I use auto paste wax. Even oil could be used. That is why CA has a problem bonding to some rosewoods, they are very oily.

Anything that will keep the CA from forming a bond between the two surfaces.

KDM · Apr 19, 2010

chrisk said:
...mask with the charcoal filters...

Is this recommended? I've only really started penturning and all my pens (not into double digits yet) have a CA finish. I just realised today that sometimes teh CA fumes make me sneeze. I suppose the fumes could be curing pretty quick in the damp air and the particles irritating my nose?

Jgrden · Apr 19, 2010

KDM said:
Just regular candle wax?

i USE HOT candle wax on both ends. I have ruined a couple mandrels with the blank sticking to it.

KDM · Apr 21, 2010

I managed to get it right this time.

corian king · Apr 21, 2010

Hello all this might be a dumb question but I have never done a ca finish.So here it goes. What does the BLO stand for? Thanks!
JIM

Jim15 · Apr 22, 2010

Jim, it stands for boiled linseed oil.

corian king · Apr 22, 2010

Thanks Jim I appreciate the response..

CA Finish Problems

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