Welcome Ryan.
Below are links to a different method of turning blanks - without mandrels, (Mandrel-less method) John (PenTurnerJohn) who just went to the method asked why we don't recommend it to all beginners, since it is more simple and more accurate with less problems. So, I am recommending it from the beginning. On the first link, read all the way through page 1 and page 2. It answers many questions:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7319
The next two links show the mandrel-less set-up. Use it initially with bushings and then take the bushings off, replace on the lathe, sand to size (measure with calipers) and apply the finish.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38361&highlight=skogger
. . . Look down to the second and following picts to see the mandrel-less set up for turning to size.
http://www.penturners.org/photos/images/940/1_Dead_drive_1.jpg
. . . without the bushings to turn to final sizing by sanding and then to finish. This eliminates bushing sanding dust from getting onto the blank (especially light colored blanks) and also eliminates bushings from being glued to the tube, blank and mandrel.
The reason for learning to use calipers early on - is that many people make a few dozen pens or more and then ask questions here on why gray dust is getting onto the blanks. That comes from the sandpaper sanding the bushings as well as the blanks. Some people "size" the blank by the bushing size instead of measuring with calipers. It is a very GOOD habit to get into from the beginning to measure the nib end, clip end and center band and turn the blanks to fit to those sizes rather than depending on the size of the bushing. Actually, because finishing (CA, Acrylic, Lacquer or other) is a building up of .01 to .03 thickness layer of finish, it is good to sand the blank down below the size just a smidgen so that when finish is applied and built up, it comes out the same size as the nib end, center band and clip end.
One caveat: While mandrel-less bushings are made for slimlines, they currently are hard to come by. Johnnycnc used to make them until his house and shop were flooded earlier this year. Paul in OKC may be making them but not sure. Some people turn their own.
Outside of slimlines, it would be good to consider mandrel-less, just use the normal bushings. If you want absolute perfection later on, look for Paul in OKC on this forum and order some custom bushings. These are more expensive but they are dead on accurate! With Mandrel-less, you take the bushings off before sanding, so one set of bushings last for ages - but not so with bushings on a mandrel.
One other link on a bushing/finish problem and how to avoid it.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39077
OH - one more note: Just in case you decide to go with the mandrel setup for a while, this next bit of information will be VERY helpful: You will need a 60 degree Live Center to use on a mandrel for the tail stock. Most wood turning lathes do not have the 60° live center, so this must be purchased separately. If not used, you will notice slight out of round finished blanks eventually and just enough wobble to irritate you.
