New pen turner ... What to buy?

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greg544

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Sep 2, 2011
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The Woodlands, TX
I have a mini lathe on order to be delivered in a few days.

I was making a list of the other things I will need to buy. I saw a few kits that might make sense. Please let me know what you think.

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#1 http://bit.ly/oCxTVB

Instructional DVD - Turning Pens with Kip and Rex
Apprentice™ Pen Turners Tool Set
5 Apprentice™ Slimline Pens with bushings
5 Apprentice™ European Pens with bushings
Apprentice™ Barrel Trimmer Kit
Apprentice™ Pen Mandrel
1 oz. Insta-Bond™ Thick CA Glue
4 oz. Friction Polish
7 mm Brad Point Drill Bit
10 Assorted Wood Pen Blanks
Finkat Sand Paper Variety Pack

$149

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#2 http://bit.ly/r7D4wW


One Bloodwood Pen Blank.
One Bubinga Pen Blank.
One Olivewood Pen Blank.
(3) 7mm Pen Hardware Kits.
7mm mandrel with knurled nut.
#2 Morse Taper.
(4) 7mm bushings.
7mm Brad Point Drill Bit.
2 oz. bottle of CA Glue.
Pen Mill (2-piece design. 3/16" threaded shank, 1/2" end mill, 1/4" clean-out shaft. Includes Allen wrench for interchanging "end mill" component.)
Plano Storage Case with 28 adjustable compartments.

$67

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#3 http://bit.ly/q9ufnA

Standard Pen Mandrel with 7mm Bushings
7mm Brad Point Drill Bit
6oz Crystal Coat Finish
7mm Barrel Trimmer
5 Slimline Pen Kits
2oz Medium CA Glue
5 Assorted Pen Blanks

$70

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Any advice is appreciated!
 
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renowb

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May 27, 2009
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Greg, you will need the basics. The first two kits seem to have all you need or at least get going on. I got the PSI starter kit a few years ago. It had the friction polish, but as soon as I started doing ca, I have really never went back to friction polish.
 

Lenny

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Jan 6, 2009
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Searsport, Maine
My list of things to consider:

1. A mandrel ... Yes, especially when your first starting out, it allows both blanks to be turned at once. (an advantage for visualizing the shape) but eventually you may want to investigate turning between centers.
2. Just as essential to turning pens as the lathe itself is to have a "proper" 60 degree Live center! Most live centers that come with the lathe when purchased are NOT 60 degrees. Using the common cup center will ruin the mandrel end and probably cause you to have out of round pens.
3. A barrel trimmer, preferably with several diffent pilot shafts. Although you can devise other methods for truing up the ends of blanks, (such as using a disc sander with a shaft mounted at 90 degrees) ... a barrel trimmer is the easiest way (IMO) for a begginer to get started.
4. Tools ... avoid the small "pen turning" tools ... Full sized, HSS (check out Harbor Freight for a nice set of 8 at under $50)
Eventually you may want to consider one of the carbide insert tools like the Woodchuck... Lots of testimonials here.
5. Glue: I much prefer 2 part epoxy for gluing in tubes ... save the CA glue for playing around with a CA finish on your pen! The epoxy gives you 5 minutes of working time and sets up quick enough that you will be able to turn the blanks right away. (give it 30 mins. just to be sure)
6. Sandpaper and MM ... Sandpaper up to 600 grit or higher ... Micro Mesh ... I like the color coded pads ... I buy the 3" x 4" and cut them in half, saving one set for when the other one wears out ... 100+ pens later. If turning wood sand up to 600 grit then finish with CA glue. Then WET sand the CA finish using the MM pads.
7. 7mm drill bit

There are of course other things you will want, need, but the above with a few kits and some wood will get you started!

You have already made the best "first step" coming here. The next "best thing" you could do is find a local IAP group and attend a meeting.

Hope that helps and feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Great vendors here on IAP as well! Best place to get your pen kits and wood! :)
 
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tim self

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Oct 2, 2008
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Atoka, Oklahoma
#1 sounds pretty good but maybe a little high priced. Dont look just in one place though. This is offered byPSI, http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKSTART1.html. Just needs a Mandrel, I recommend adjustable, and some CA (prefered finish over Shellwax). Get a small bottle of your preference, (medium), see how it works and then get a bigger one from Monty.

So many choices it'll make your head spin!!! Also, look at this for more ideas. http://content.penturners.org/library/general_reference/Getting_started_in_pen_turning.pdf
 

renowb

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May 27, 2009
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Greg, the offer still stands. Come by and I will show you some basics. I'm not the expert like some of the members here, but I do ok.
 

rherrell

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Pilot Mountain, NC
I know this goes against everything that you read about starting out but I think that the SLIMLINE style of pens are one of the HARDER styles to turn, especially for a beginner. In my opinion I would start with the SIERRA style of pen, it only has one barrel to deal with and it is alot easier than a slimline, plus you'll have a nicer pen when you're done!
 

kovalcik

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Jun 9, 2011
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Barrington, NH
Rick makes a good point about slimlines not being the easiest pen to make. The blanks get pretty thin, especially if you turn the barrels straight sided.

The main reason to start with them though, is that they are cheap so if you blow one out, it is no big loss. Also, they are fun to modify, and again, if it does not work you are out ~$3, not ~$7.

One way to get practice is just drill a blank with a 1/4" bit and mount that on your mandrel. Then you can practice turning and finishing all you want without wasting tubes.
 

ctubbs

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Sep 12, 2010
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Murray, Kentucky
Greg, all the above is god advice. When you do blow out a blank, do not throw it away with the tube still inside. When it happens, you can then take your skew and learn how to use it by turning the rest of the blank off the tube. Two things at one time, you saved the tube and kit for later use and also learned how to use the "SKEW". I attained much practice doing this very thing so having to use the skew is no longer such a scary thing.
Definitely shy away from the "pen turning tool" sets. I have one of them somewhere. They never get used anymore. The HF set is much more versatile. Anything you can do with the small set, you can do with the bigger tools. You will need some kind of sharpening equipment. The quickest way to become discouraged is to try to do good work with dull tools.
For practice, get some FOG )found on ground) wood, slice it into some form of blank, drill a 1/4" hole in the blank and turn it on the mandrel. You will not need to insert a tube and this will give you much great practice. Turn it round, sand it and apply the finish. Turn this off and finish it again. The friction polish is easy to apply but it has very little staying power. There are many other finishes used by the members, probably the most used is the CA finish. I will not tell you how to do it for there are as many ways as there are members using it. Use the search feature for CA finish and sit back for some fun reading. Get set up first with some food and drink. Also check out Youtube for some finishing videos.
All this advice is worth just exactly what it cost you, nothing. Welcome to the addiction and ask any questions that come to mind. This site has a wealth of knowledge ans most members are willing to share their experiences. Good luck and work safely. Body parts usually do not grow back. DAMHIKT.
Charles
 

BSea

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Dec 28, 2009
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Little Rock, Arkansas
I agree with Rick. Start with a Sierra. If it does blow out, you are out the cost of the tube and blank. Not the complete kit. Always buy extra tubes for the kits you like to make. This didn't make a lot of sense to me when I 1st started, but it becomes painfully (not physical pain, but emotional pain) apparent when you blow up a blank that you've spent a lot of time trying to get it JUUUUUST Right.
 

IPD_Mrs

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Zionsville, Indiana
I know this goes against everything that you read about starting out but I think that the SLIMLINE style of pens are one of the HARDER styles to turn, especially for a beginner. In my opinion I would start with the SIERRA style of pen, it only has one barrel to deal with and it is alot easier than a slimline, plus you'll have a nicer pen when you're done!


This would be my exact advice. Slimlines are my LEAST favorite to turn and I never suggest them for a beginner. Get hold of the Sierra style that was mentioned or maybe one of the kits that takes one longer blank (for example the long click pen that Jonathan Brooks uses). Alternatively, if you are really set on turning something with two segments get a decent cigar or even a junior of some sort.

Linda
 

shadrach1944

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Dec 17, 2007
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Location
Morehead, KY, USA.
All of the above is good advice and its just something you can figure out on your own on how much you can afford for tools and supplies. When I first started turning in Oct. 2007, I purchased the pre-drilled 7mm blanks from PSI and it really taught me how to turn. I then purchased the 30 pen slimline set at PSI to really get in to designing and modifying the slimline. You can sure have a lot of fun with these and learning at the same time.

Sincerely,

Raymond
 

rsulli16

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Jun 9, 2010
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hi
all good avise
i would simply add, "jump in" welcome to a great hobby
Sulli
 
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wiset1

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Florida
I know this goes against everything that you read about starting out but I think that the SLIMLINE style of pens are one of the HARDER styles to turn, especially for a beginner. In my opinion I would start with the SIERRA style of pen, it only has one barrel to deal with and it is alot easier than a slimline, plus you'll have a nicer pen when you're done!

So true...I think. When I started turning pens I bought the Majestic and Majestic Jr. kits since I figured the smaller slimlines would be so small that they would be a larger pain in the butt than the larger component kits. I've been turning now for a couple years and find that the larger full sized kits offer more canvas to work with, feel like money in your hand, and just look better. If you ever want to segment a pen, the larger kits are the way to go. Just my $0.02
 
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