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Old 11-01-2015, 08:55 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Here is a pic of the Jacobs chuck(drill Chuck) which will mount in the tailstock and hold your drill bit while the wood blank spins. You will crank the bandshell to advance the drill into the wood. Just hold the drill Chuck by hand as when you crank it back out to clear chips, you don't want the drill Chuck to loosen in the tailstock.
The tapered end you see fits in the tail stock and needs to be the matching size morse taper.
There should be some good pics in your penturning book.
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:59 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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Ahhh..got it...I am SO visual, but it works like the chuck on my drill...gotcha.... this is my lathe. Not high end by any means...but meant to be a starter...as it is the only wood craft project I have ever done. My grandfather was a decoy maker though and I spent a lot of time with him in his wood shop, I just didn't know what things were called.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:14 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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sue, I see the lathe you listed. I feel if your budget allows, going to their next size up...the lathe will not only be able to handle larger work but the size of the threading and morse tapers where you will attach your drill Chuck, pen mandrel will be more of a standard size(#2 morse taper). You will have a better time fining accessories as your turning advances.
The next one does not have the variable speed. You have to change the belt to change speeds but should be a better choice over the other one.
Here is a pic of the Harbor Freight one.

My next recommendation would be a Rikon mini lathe from Woodcraft.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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I have the 10x18 and don't find shifting the belts difficjlt. In ways I wonder if it isn't a good thinb to stop me and slow down my thoughts before moving on to the next step.

You do know about Harbor Freight 20% off coupons too right? Very helpful on a budget.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:58 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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If you already have that lathe, you will need to make sure the accessories you buy are are MT1. MT stands for the morse taper that's inside either end of the lathe. MT1 is the smaller size.

I'm not sure what the threads are on that headstock...

There are other pen turners using it though.
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Old 11-01-2015, 10:05 PM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Masshardt View Post
If you already have that lathe, you will need to make sure the accessories you buy are are MT1. MT stands for the morse taper that's inside either end of the lathe. MT1 is the smaller size.

I'm not sure what the threads are on that headstock...

There are other pen turners using it though.
Dan,
I question whether one can use a Chuck with pen jaws, blank, drill Chuck and bit and drill on this lathe due to the 12" between centers. Sounds tight on space to me. Another method of drilling may be needed.
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Old 11-01-2015, 11:30 PM   #27 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie_W View Post
Dan, I question whether one can use a Chuck with pen jaws, blank, drill Chuck and bit and drill on this lathe due to the 12" between centers. Sounds tight on space to me. Another method of drilling may be needed.
A fair question - on power as well with 1/3 HP.

Hopefully some folks who have this lathe can jump in and let her know.

I know several have it but not sure if folks drill on it.
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Old 11-02-2015, 07:07 AM   #28 (permalink)
 
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OK, so reading here and doing my math and now more educated just from reading your comments - YOU ALL ARE FANTASTICALLY helpful and generous with your advise...thank you. With all the money I would spend on chucks and such and trying to return this lathe....I would be better served FOR now to just buy an inexpensive drill press I saw at harbor freight.

Dan Thanks! I was able to cancel a couple of purchases before they shipped to get the correct mandrel size.

Where is the coupon for harbor freight so I can get the drill press?

I told my family this new hobby would save me money from purchasing fountain pens....hahahahahaha...I guess not! ;-)

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Old 11-02-2015, 08:07 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Buying a small / inexpensive drill press comes with it's own drawback. The term quill travel refers to how deep the drill can go. Small drill presses don't usually have much quill travel. Take a took at how long the tubes on the pens you want to make are and compare that to the quill travel on the presses you're looking at.

There are ways to accommodate like raising the table or moving the blank up and putting a block under to drill deeper.
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:40 AM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Sue,
One more thing.
On your list of tools, I did not see any grinder or other method of sharpening your tools. You listed a set of 3 high speed steel chisels that will require sharpening usually right out of the box to have a truly sharp edge and will require continued touching up to keep that edge sharp.
A dull tool will not cut well, will be frustrating to use and may cause you to ruin some pen blanks in the process.
I know this is an added expense but necessary for this hobby.
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