Herringbone 360 blank and instructions

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Rojo22

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Hey gang, I wanted to apologize for the length in delay on getting the pictures posted here after the last meeting. This morning I was ENERGIZED to complete this task, due to some postings again on how to complete a 360 Herringbone. I will post some additional pictures later, but wanted to get this out there to start folks out. Again, I apologize for it taking this long!


If at any point of this post you find something unsafe or contradictory to your safety training, do not attempt to make this blank. Follow all rules of your power tools and remember to use safety glasses, guards, ear protection and lung protection at all times. Be safe and have fun!


First and foremost, if there are flames to be taken for this "demystification" post, bring it on, I can take it, as I have taken it upon myself to help out those of us who would like to make these blanks. I will NOT name names, but this process was clearly the hard work of another member in the Southeast group, and I in no way am taking any credit for creating these blanks or for figuring out the process, but I wanted to take the heat for posting the pictures. The only thing I will take credit for is distributing the pictures, and answering any questions you may have. If the member of the Southeast chapter would like to take credit, they definitely can, but I wanted to keep them from being inundated with PM's. I have the permission of the Southeast member to share his hard work, in the spirit of getting people started in making these beautiful blanks. I appreciate his hard work and giving spirit in teaching us how to do the herringbone. If you PM me, I will pass along your comments to the member who is sharing this with us.

Many thanks go out to you know who!

This in NO WAY is the only way to do Herringbone 360's, and I am sure if someone wanted to SHARE more information, the rest of us would be very appreciative. I am not an expert on this blank, and I can say I have never built one (but will have a few done in a few days from this posting), but I know this works. Hopefully some folks can take this demo and surprise us with some innovative and new ways to show off the herringbone pattern. If something gets confusing, let me know, I will try and take some additional photos to help describe what is going on. Please give this a try and see what you can do with it! Maybe now we can move on to something different than just a simple herringbone 360.

For those who want to bash this post, or are opposed to having it here, please PM me, I will be more than happy to respond to you personally. I would ask you to PM me with an issue and not clog this thread with bash issues.
 
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Rojo22

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Here is a picture of the completed blank, or what we are after for a finished product. This has been rough turned round to give you an idea of what it should look like. The completed blank will have squared ends and look like one of the later pictures, until it is turned round like the example below.

The following is just an example, and should not be "judged" as a finished pen. This is just an example that was put together using scraps to show how it was done. In no way does this depict an actual completed pen.
 

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Rojo22

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Here is what we will start off with, just simple squares. The color and design can be quite different, depending on the different ways you lay up the squares. Only one color was used here, but in later pictures, you can see how a few different colors can add some stunning design elements.

The squares that we used for the example will create a blank that is way too large for a normal pen blank.

The squares pictured could be cut from a normal pen blank, but using smaller squares will save material. Using smaller squares will make gluing up a little more challenging, but not much more.

The squares pictured are 3/4 inch square and .190 of an inch thick maple.

Making sure that the squares are very square and flat are critical to getting good glue lines.
 

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Rojo22

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Ok, here we are going to start to glue up some of the squares to get a "segment" of squares, that we will use as the building block of the blank. These will be "stacked" on top of one another in order to get the herringbone look. The squares will be glued to each other on the thin edges.

The first picture is of the first step of gluing the squares together, the second picture shows a completed "segment" and the third piece which would be glued to the two pieces already glued together in the first picture. The only thing is that the third square would be glued with the edge even with the top of the vertical square. In other words, I did not have a picture of three pieces glued together, and the third piece should be raised off the table by the thickness of the horizontal square. I will post a better picture of this later when I have segments that I can color coordinate.
 

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Rojo22

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The next step will be to glue multiple three piece "segments" together to create the stacking pieces for the blank.


In the first picture you will see the first three piece "segment" glued to a second set of three piece "segments". The segments are glued together in a manner that the offsets are creating a stacked and uniform offset.

Making sure everything is glued straight and true will help keep the glue lines tight, and not have any gaps later on.

This is the building block for the rest of the blank. These "segments" will now be nested together to create the blank.

The second picture is of the two six piece "segments" ready to stack on top of one another for the next step.
 

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Rojo22

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The picture below now shows the 6 piece "segment" that we have glued up, stacked on top of another 6 piece "segment" and glued together (applying pressure to the glue up will help the joint be stronger, but not too much pressure that the glue squeezes totally out of the joint). Wood glue was used to glue these pieces together, but other glues used in woodworking and penturning might be found to work as well, but I have not personally tried them for this type of glue up.

This really is the simplicity of the building the blank. It will be how you arrange the different color woods, and 6 piece "segments" that will give you the distinguishing characteristics of your personally created 360 herringbone blank!

Keep in mind a few measurements when you create the blank. The blank will need to be long enough to create the kit you will place it on, and might be confusing when you measure the blank because of the "wings" coming off the end. Measure the blank from the solid portion in the middle, because that is really all you have to work with when you turn the blank. If you are dealing with a one piece kit such as a Sierra or Wall Street 2, it is easier. Pens with two pieces will need to be planned out that if you are going to get a "clean" look to the segments, you will need to either part the blank to make your two pieces, or cut the blank for a clean split. The other option is making two of them, and going with what you get. Have fun and experiment, but be safe!

The blank can now be treated just like any other blank and drilled and milled as usual! Your choice is whether to turn it roughed round and drilled or drill it just like it is. I personally will rough turn mine to a "round" state first.
 

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Rojo22

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Here is a pic of some different colors and style of glue up.
 

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DennisM

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Here is a pic of some different colors and style of glue up.

OMG that is so simple, I cant believe how easy that is! J/K I really dont think there will be a mad rush of these being made! The skill to cut the blanks and glue them together with presicion is amazing!

I will bookmark this for a later time, but still my hat tips to those who have made this and to you for sharing!
 

kirkfranks

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OK absolutely not what I had been running through my head.
No simple task even with your photos.

From your picture in post #7 are you able to use pieces of different thickness as long as the complete set of 6 all are the same as each other?
 

Mark

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I would like to try one someday. I'm way to new to even think about it at this point. Thanks much for the post...
 

Rojo22

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I have not built one with different thicknesses yet, but I would imagine, that you are correct. As long as each level was the same thickness, other "segments" could be of different thickneses.

See the example in the last post, and I think that it would work just fine.

OK absolutely not what I had been running through my head.
No simple task even with your photos.

From your picture in post #7 are you able to use pieces of different thickness as long as the complete set of 6 all are the same as each other?
 

DocStram

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I haven't posted in awhile but I'd like to say "Great job!" with the tutorial. Thanks to Rojo and the Southeast chapter for stepping up to the plate and taking the initiative to reveal "The Secret Mystery of the Herringbone".
 

altaciii

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I appreciate the mini tutorial, there have been many long threads on the subject. However, I really would like to know who I would like to thank by name. When I viewed your public profile there was still no name.
 

Gin N' Tonic

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Thank you

Thank you,

I've done a couple 360 HB's and your design is much more simple than mine. I left this forum in disgust at one time but your post made me realize that there is a great value to this forum and I want to be a part of it.
 

RAdams

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Good stuff! Thanks for posting it. Now if i could just remember what i did with that old bag of scrabble letters i could get to glueing!!!
 

Chief Hill

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Good stuff! Thanks for posting it. Now if i could just remember what i did with that old bag of scrabble letters i could get to glueing!!!

Lol ohh my god I said the exact same thing. I thought eh they are already cut and ready to glue.
 

DennisM

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Lol ohh my god I said the exact same thing. I thought eh they are already cut and ready to glue.


Great minds copy alike!

I was thinking then of the nice contrast the brown letters on the squares would have in the blank as well!

Now I see a mad rush of "scrabble" blanks coming out...

:)
 

DRScherz

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I used triangles on mine. To me, the glue-up seemed simpler that way. Squares would be easier to make though. Just slice up a blank.

You CAN mix different thicknesses of material by layer. You need to use the same thickness of material for each individual layer.

-Dale
 

RAdams

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Has anyone ever tried to stack uneven layers? Like a brickwork type herringbone effect maybe? You might have to fgure out a different way to glue it up but it might make for an interesting pen if some spent the time.
 

twoofakind

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Robert, you can name names...it doesn't bother me. When I made those I just used what I had laying around in the shop. I have made them with triangle and squares. The triangles were easier to glue up and keep the pattern correct, but the squares would be useful if you were making a larger diameter blank.
Andy
 

wood-of-1kind

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Help me Rojo22

Where do I drill to get the "herringbone" effect? I'm somewhat confused and this may be because I may have the 'glueup' done incorrectly. Perhaps thes pics may confirm where I've gone wrong. Thanks agian for your fine tutorial and your willingness to 'assist'.:)
 

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glycerine

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Where do I drill to get the "herringbone" effect? I'm somewhat confused and this may be because I may have the 'glueup' done incorrectly. Perhaps thes pics may confirm where I've gone wrong. Thanks agian for your fine tutorial and your willingness to 'assist'.:)

Looks like you only have half the blank done. I THINK It should look more like this. (Enlarge the thumbnail to see my red lines, and just continue the pattern for the rest of the blank.) I have only done them with triangles, so I may be a little confused. When you are done, you'll probably want to cut off the ends first so they're flat, then I think it will be more apparent where you need to drill...
 

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Freethinker

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I used triangles on mine. To me, the glue-up seemed simpler that way. Squares would be easier to make though. Just slice up a blank.

Does it matter if the squares are sliced from the end of a (for instance) 3/4" X 3/4" X 12" blank, like slicing pieces off a loaf of bread...

...as compared to slicing the squares off the end of a piece shaped like a ruler (iow, like a 3/4" X 1/8" X 12" piece of wood??

The first would have pieces the sides of which are end grain, the second would have pieces the sides of which are long grain. (hope this makes sense).

So......is there a preferred way? Is the final look of the pen different for the two different ways of slicing?
 

wood-of-1kind

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Looks like you only have half the blank done. I THINK It should look more like this. (Enlarge the thumbnail to see my red lines, and just continue the pattern for the rest of the blank.) I have only done them with triangles, so I may be a little confused. When you are done, you'll probably want to cut off the ends first so they're flat, then I think it will be more apparent where you need to drill...

Thank you, Jeremy. I see where I went wrong and greatly appreciate the 'assist' and putting me back on path. Can't wait to get this blank done.
 

Rojo22

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Does it matter if the squares are sliced from the end of a (for instance) 3/4" X 3/4" X 12" blank, like slicing pieces off a loaf of bread...

...as compared to slicing the squares off the end of a piece shaped like a ruler (iow, like a 3/4" X 1/8" X 12" piece of wood??

The first would have pieces the sides of which are end grain, the second would have pieces the sides of which are long grain. (hope this makes sense).

So......is there a preferred way? Is the final look of the pen different for the two different ways of slicing?

Yes it does matter. Slicing a thinner piece of stock like the ruler in your example, will result in less waste if cutting with a table saw or the like. The grain will run up and down in the loaf of bread example, and the grain would run with the ruler in that example. The look will be different. With the loaf of bread example, you will waste more material, and you will be turning across the grain more while turning the blank. The ruler method saves material, and allows you to turn, not entirely with the grain, but with it sometimes.

I am in the process of completing a much more "complete" tutorial that will be published in the "real" tutorial section in the next week or so. Hang in there everyone, some better help is hopefully just around the corner!
 
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