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Old 03-11-2017, 02:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Another thing, be sure to start drilling with a center drill. This helps your drill to start on center.
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Old 03-11-2017, 03:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Please forgive the "simplicity" of my suggestion: is it possible that the bits are slightly bent or they are bowing while drilling/penetrating the blanks? No need to answer...just trying to eliminate all of the variables.

Another simple one is to ensure that the drill bit is centered and even held by all of the jaws of the Jacobs chuck; I messed-up a blank that way.
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Old 03-12-2017, 10:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Thanks. I checked this first. I'm on a Jet 1221 and I'm pleased to say the alignment is perfect!
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Old 03-12-2017, 10:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Like the 1/2" idea. Thanks
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Old 03-12-2017, 10:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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I'm going to get my hands on one of these. Suggestions on where I can find one? Amazon?
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Old 03-12-2017, 10:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Thanks. I was loosening the tail stock several times per blank to back out the bit. I tried your suggestion and the drilled holes seem to come out MUCH better. Thanks so much for your great suggestion. I think my problem is solved. I did check alignment first and it was fine.
My sincere thanks to all my fellow turners for helping out a turner in need. Anyone want to buy some masking tape, cheap?!
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Old 05-06-2017, 10:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Drill

I drill antler on my lathe and have to stop to clear the bit, sometimes a few times. If I leave my lathe running clearing the bit and putting the blank back on the bit the hole is larger than the bit. It reams the hole bigger. Try stopping the lathe and unscrew the blank from the bit to clear it and screw the blank back on. Sometimes I do not have to this with antler. Here is how it's done. I always use a pilot tip drill bits

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAEEaF8z2jM
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Old 05-06-2017, 12:10 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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One thing I will add here is to make sure the blank is seated properly in the correct jaws before spinning it. You'd be surprized how easily a blank can shift when snugging down the chuck key.
Also, make sure you have the correct jaws on your chuck to begin with.

Roll your drill bits on a known flat surface & check for wobble. If there is any wobble or deflection, you know the bit is bad.
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Old 05-06-2017, 12:35 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Usually when my tail stock gets out of alignment the hole is bigger on the end of the tail stock.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:35 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Kardell View Post
One thing to think about is when you back the bit out don't loosen the tailstock. I made the mistake early on of loosening the tailstock each time I backed out the bit and each time you do that there is a chance that it will not tighten in the exact location and this will cause the hole to widen.

When the tailstock has been extended as far as it can go and you have not gone completely through the blank - back out the bit without loosening the tailstock, stop the lathe, loosen the tailstock, move the bit forward into the blank, tighten the tail stock again, then start the lathe and start advancing the bit again. The longest blanks should only need to have the tailstock reset once ....

Hope that helps.


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Wow....you really DO learn so much, here.

I'm a relatively new turner, who absolutely loves turning pens. But I see, now, that I had been doing the 'bit clearing' movement wrong. I would always retract my bit from the blank with the lathe running; sometimes coming all the way out, to be sure that I pulled as much particles out of the hole, as I could. I did notice that the bit would catch, a bit, on the rim of the entrance hole when I would return the spinning bit to the blank. I had thought it was the norm, having been of the mind that I was doing it as (I felt) it was supposed to have been done.

Thanks for sharing.
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