Wooden kitless construction/threading questions

[BigNick73]

I've started my first kitless, section is done so I guess that's a start, and I'm running into a few questions for working with materials that don't thread well like wood or trustone.

First I was wondering how well the normal brass tubes tap/thread. I noticed 10mm tubes have a ID of 9.1mm which should be just prefect for a 10x1 tap, but its awful thin stuff and was wondering how it held up if tapped after being glued into a blank. I haven't checked sized but figure this might be a easy way to get threads in a cap as well without turning an insert.

For inserts I'm using 6061 aluminum since all I have is a wood lathe. Was wondering if most tend to make them the length of the barrel/cap or just an inch or so long in order to just get a good adhesive bond. I'm guessing the shorter version you'd have to leave the barrel/cap a bit thicker to have support.

And one more while I'm thinking about it, I threaded my section for a Jowo #6 nib, and while it's a super tight fit, I was wondering if it was normal to use a drop of CA or something to really secure it in there.

 

[mredburn]

You would cut through the brass tubes with the threads we use. I would not do it. If you did it after you glued it in and the blank was a brittle material it might crack and break it.
I make my inserts about .375 to .400 long. No you shouldnt have to glue the feed assembly in the housing.

 

[Joey-Nieves]

To thread wood I use thin CA to harden the wood. You may need apply various time an thread and apply and thread... you get the picture

 

[chemfun]

I really don't like turning acrylic. How well do the CA threads hold up?

 

[mredburn]

Its actually ca coated wood threads, the ca is soaked into the wood to harden it and then threaded and or rethreaded. They will not take much abuse at all.

 

[BocoteMark]

When I want to thread a wood blank, and I do this a fair bit, here is my procedure:

I drill the hole large enough to be a "through hole". In other words, if I were threading for 3/8-16 I would drill a 3/8" hole.

Then, I mix up a quality epoxy with a pot life of at least ten minutes (I use West System). Use a q-tip to smear a thin coat of epoxy on the inside surface of the hole I want to thread.

Then add cotton flox to the remaining epoxy to make a paste that is about as stiff as warm peanut butter. Now smear a thick layer of this in the hole to be threaded. You could fill up the hole completely if you wanted.

Wait for the epoxy to fully cure. I usually give it a few days. Then put the blank back on the lathe and drill the proper sized hole for tapping. Then tap the hole by hand making sure I don't build up too much heat from friction. I usually use a coarse thread and thread deep into the hole (like 3/4" deep) so there is plenty of thread engagement.

-Mark

 

[chemfun]

Epoxy seems like a good method. Do you have any pictures? How does it hold up?

What about the look of the threads where the section meets the barrel?

I would love to make a kitless fountain pen in wood, but I don't want to waste my time if the pen is not going to be high quality.

***Starting a new thread so as not to hijack this one***
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/advice-wood-fountain-pen-130376/#post1747257

 

[BocoteMark]

The threads in epoxy with cotton flox hold up very well---because I don't ask too much of the material. I use deep, coarse threads and thread almost 3/4" down the length of the pen blank. The pen that I've been carrying in my pocket for the last two months has threads made in this fashion. It is solid as a rock.

I don't have any pictures right now. I'm up to my elbows developing some new hardware. When I am happy with it I will photo document the whole process and post it.

For what I am doing there are no exposed threads in the finished product so looks are not an issue. As far as not wanting to waste your time, I'd say you need to practice...a LOT with the technique before you worry about how the final product will look. Find some wood that is hard but not expensive or rare and make some practice runs. Then worry about making a finished product.