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Advanced Pen Making Kit-less construction; designs and challenges beyond those normally associated with kit pens.

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Old 09-07-2017, 04:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
keithncsu's Avatar
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Rock Hill, SC 29730
Posts: 329
Photos: 7


Thanks for the further explanation! I was indeed referring to the feed. I was thinking I would have to find an assembled section and remove the section, feed, filler, etc. But I'll be on the lookout for just the fillers.

I've seen some folks make homemade collets to be used in a 4 jaw or jacobs chuck. I'll have to try that out too so I have a way to hold these. If the goal is to do it without special tools (taps), then I should try my hand at that too and not buy the collet chuck that I wouldn't use a ton right now.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Owensboro, KY
Posts: 308
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However, being a belt and suspenders glass-half-empty kind of guy, I can't help but see a disaster somewhere down the road when a section slips out accidentally. I know it's not going to just jump out on its own, but I can easily imagine it lying on a desk under a halogen lamp and the air in the barrel expanding and . . .

Just a thought. I really do admire the idea though.

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Old 09-08-2017, 09:19 AM   #13 (permalink)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Owensboro, KY
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Further thought on my last post. My example is probably not a good one. Pressure would be released by pushing ink out through the nib rather than forcing the section out. This sort of incident is not uncommon with eyedropper fillers.

One thing that might or might not be worth considering: Ron Zorn of Main Street Pens is a pen repair man and restorer who often pops up at Fountain Pen Network. While the use of silicone grease on the threads of eyedropper fillers to prevent leakage is almost universal, he recommends beeswax for 2 reasons. The first is that silicone grease works only because it is hydrophobic, but doesn't really seal. The second is that silicone is a lubricant and encourages over tightening the section and cracking the barrel threads. Would the lubricant property make a lapped joint more likely to come apart?

Beeswax might be a little bit too sticky to work in this situation, although with a little heat, maybe.

I would still like to see some sort of positive stop though.


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Old 09-08-2017, 03:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 576
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I hadn't thought about Beeswax, but I think I'll try it.

I use a little silicon grease on the stub as a lubricant to facilitate removing it for refilling, not to seal it (my joints don't leak). Ebonite can be really difficult to pull apart if not lubricated since it is actually rubber against rubber and tends to have a lot of friction resistance. I'm going to try the Beeswax to see how that works, and maybe make one with a acrylic or resin body to see how that works using an Ebonite section (I love Ebonite) both with and without a lubricant or sealer.

FWIW, the entire rear stub of the section is a tight slip fit up till about the last 3/16 inch which is slightly larger to form a very tight fit. It works like an O-ring to both form an extremely leak proof final seal (I did try O-rings but decided it just complicates things) and gives the section a very firm and solid mount in the body.

FWIW, it is tight enough that without the lubricant it is very difficult to remove and even with lubricant it takes a definite intention to pull it out so there is no danger of it accidentally coming out. It is every bit as solid as if it were a threaded joint, maybe more solid, not loose or wobbly or something.

I'll probably try a looser fit on the next one I make, if I get around to making another, to see if it actually needs to be that tight of a fit for the full length or if just the last fraction of an inch needs to be tight to fully hold it with some silicon or Beeswax making the seal on the rest of the stub without it being tight (which would be easier to fit without spending much time doing it).
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