Reaming

[BradG]

Hi guys
Id like to make some blanks which are reamed so the components can be press fitted into them without the need of the brass tube.

I've not done any reaming before so any pointers would be good?
The blanks will be for a jr gent

 

[magpens]

I use parallel-sided adjustable reamers for various jobs. Here's a link to two tool stores I buy them from (online):

KBC Tools & Machinery

Buy Adjustable Blade Reamer Set Of 7pcs at Busy Bee Tools

For quality, I go with the first.

These reamers are a bit of a pain to use and I would not rely on them for accuracy better than +/- 0.004" unless you take special measures to adjust and check their size and parallelism.

A much more expensive alternative is chucking reamers which are of fixed size. You can look them up on kbctools.com

Of course, you would have preferred suppliers in the UK.

 

[builtbybill]

Will the blanks be able to withstand the amount of pressure that will be required to hold the components in place? Isn't that why tubes are used in the first place, to keep the blanks from splitting?

 

[magpens]

Maybe Brad is going to use stainless steel blanks.

 

[KenV]

Hand operated reamer OR mechanized reaming on the metal lathe?

 

[BradG]

The blanks will be aluminium, and certainly thick enough :wink:

Ken, on the lathe.

Mal, thanks for the links. I like the sound of chucking one up so il do a search for those ones once I figure out the internal tube diameter of a Jr. The guide link seems to be broken in the library which contains all the tube sizes.

 

[KenV]

On the lathe, hard to beat the expandable dreamers especially in the early development stages.

 

[TurtleTom]

Expandable dreamers, oh my.

 

[skiprat]

Why the need for a reamer? Your press fit parts only need about 10mm depth. I would be shocked to find that your new fancy lathe using a short boring bar ( either tailstock or toolpost mounted) didn't have the accuracy to do that...

 

[BradG]

Skip, the boring bars I have are too big for a pen blank. I generally have to drill out 17mm just fit my boring bar in lol. I thought reamers would be the best approach, but if you're suggesting sourcing some smaller boring tools il look at that too

 

[TBCbushings]

Is the tube for a JR. Gent II?? If so I have the measurements for that one...

 

[BradG]

Is the tube for a JR. Gent II?? If so I have the measurements for that one...

I think I have it. I've been advised 9.66mm and 11.88mm for the internal diameters of the brass tubes

 

[Paul in OKC]

Ream on the lathe. Usually drill closest size under, within about .01 to .015 (.25mm, is that about right conversion?!) then ream.

 

[plantman]

Brad; I use my tapered reamers most on the time when I need to make any adjustments on my blanks or tubes. Also they will round out a misshapened hole or tube. Sort of a one size fits all tool. Adjustable reamers also work fine, but can get expensive if more than a couple are needed. Jim S

 

[Paul in OKC]

Not sure aboout shipping, but I have done business with Drill and Cutters (Welcome to Drills and Cutters | Drillsandcutters.com) They have a very wide variety of sizes in .001 increments. I personnally am not a big fan of the adjustable reamers, but they have their purpose.

 

[keithbyrd]

I bought the two drill sizes mentioned above and simply drilled and pressed the components into an aluminum blank. No special tools required and worked great!

 

[PenPal]

Brad I use surplus end mills for that final accurate cut set them in the tool post with a slight kick in depending on the mill there are more than one beaut cutting edge I was going frantic trying to get accurate drills so when I buy I mike and buy under and under ones the dealers are amused but I have learned oils aint oils long ago.

Peter.

 

[Ironwood]

Peter, thanks for the tip on the endmills, I will use that one. Thanks Mate.