Collective advice needed !

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tangoman

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Jan 10, 2014
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G'Day Folks,

I need to pick your brains again ! LOL

Am going to buy, actually its a Christmas pressie from SWMBO, a triple start Tap and Die.

I am unsure as to which size, i.e M12,M13 or M14

Initially I'm intending to use the sections off the Churchill/El Grande series with an M10x1 thread and later on move to making my own sections. This would need bigger than M12 - I think?

If I buy the taps for #5 and #6 nibs etc then, I think M12 would do fine?

Is my thinking correct and what is your view of this ?

Regards,
Cam
 
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BSea

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The 12 mm might be a bit small for a 10mm section. Because the 12mm has a thread depth of .8. So you have just over .5mm wall thickness for the section to screw into the barrel.

The 12mm will work for Jowo #6. I'm not sure about the Bock #6. I know the tap is bigger, I just not sure how much. But #5 should work with either.

Personally, I like a big nib with a slender barrel. So I use Jowo.
 
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duncsuss

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I agree with BSea -- M12 wouldn't leave enough wall thickness for internal threading at M10 x anything.

I normally use M9 x 0.75 for my section to barrel for JoWo #5, JoWo #6 and Bock #5. (I've never made a Bock #6 so I can't speak to that.)

When I'm going to use M9 x 0.75 internally, unless a customer has asked for a larger cap/barrel diameter, I use M12 x 0.75 for the cap.
 
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I have the 12 and the 14mm. As stated, the 12 can be marginal with a 10mm section. Breakage can be an issue, especially with brittle materials. The 14 leaves you with a pretty hefty pen. If I were to go with one, I think the 13 would be a good compromise.
 

mredburn

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If your only doing metal than the m12 will work but for resins and other materials it will be better to go to the 13mm. I use 10m x .75 inside the 12m x .8 all the time.
The #5 is 6.5 x .5 and the #6 is 7.4 x .5, If your going to make your own front sections I would recommend the 10mm x .75 over the 10 x 1. The finer threads tend to have less stress on the material when cutting than the 1mm pitch.
You can also design your pens so that the front section threads are not right underneath the threads for the cap if you want to use the 12mm set. Make a longer front section tenon with the threads deeper in the pen.
 

BSea

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If your only doing metal than the m12 will work but for resins and other materials it will be better to go to the 13mm. I use 10m x .75 inside the 12m x .8 all the time.
The #5 is 6.5 x .5 and the #6 is 7.4 x .5, If your going to make your own front sections I would recommend the 10mm x .75 over the 10 x 1. The finer threads tend to have less stress on the material when cutting than the 1mm pitch.
You can also design your pens so that the front section threads are not right underneath the threads for the cap if you want to use the 12mm set. Make a longer front section tenon with the threads deeper in the pen.
The only issue I see, is that the part where the section threads screw in still needs to be slender enough for the cap threads to go over. You really don't gain much if any strength.
 
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Curly

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If the threads are forward on the section instead of the barrel then you can get away with a 12mm thread for the cap, otherwise the 13 or 14 is the one to chose. I'll attach a picture of a plexi "work out the details" section. It was for the first Collaboration Swap and was for a #6 Bock nib.


attachment.php
 

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BSea

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If the threads are forward on the section instead of the barrel then you can get away with a 12mm thread for the cap, otherwise the 13 or 14 is the one to chose. I'll attach a picture of a plexi "work out the details" section. It was for the first Collaboration Swap and was for a #6 Bock nib.


attachment.php
OOOPS, I had the threads reversed in how I was looking at it in my head. :hypnotized: Easy to do (at least for me) when working on a kitless pen.

Your way would work just fine. . . . . . . . . . Sorry Mike.
 

mredburn

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I will be unavailable all next week if you order the tap and die set. I will be back the 1st of Dec.
 
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