Like Russ I use the epoxy (I use the stuff Monty sells). I've found cleanup to be a breeze if you use a dry paper towel or cloth to buff off any minor glue squeeze-out. I had forgotten that DNA removed epoxy however, I need to remember that for those times I get heavy handed with the epoxy.
BTW I apply the epoxy with a Q-tip to the inside of the barrel tube. For pens like Barons and Gents I'll put tiny touches of epoxy on the clip ring to hold the clip snug in place so that it doesn't spin by accident (which can cause damage to the finish where the clip end touches it).
A little dab 'll do ya!
This topic is confusing. The answers posted to the question of how long it takes before the CA becomes inert are 10-minutes, 1-hour, over night; and I have a fountain pen cap that will still eat the plating off a kit nib and leave a white powder in the feed after more than a year. The only difference is that now it takes a couple days to destroy the pen, and a year ago it was overnight. And that is after several soakings in accelerator. What am I missing?
I think you also forgot the about other guy getting booted for shilling, and gerry and Cav setting the record straight on accelerator burning folks.
As a side note to all these side notes (ie, getting back to what the person asked)--- I have found 24 hours to NOT be a consistent wait period for CA flashing/blooming. Once I realized that it took longer for CA to cure to a non-bloom state than it did for epoxy to set up, I switched. Yes, it's more work. Yes, it's worth it.