1 1/2" die holder -- 3/4" chuck

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OKLAHOMAN

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Don't know if he still is making them but it could be he's been busy making his component-less pens for the LA show. If you haven't send him a PM do so, if you have he will answer.
 

Texatdurango

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Shawn,

Sorry for not being quicker on replying with the PM's. Roy is correct, I am doing something that is very hard for me to do which is to focus on one thing, and right now I have a few dozen pens in the works and if I go astray doing other things before you know it it's the middle of February and I don't have near as many pens as I need for an upcoming pen show.

Since retiring in 2006 this is the first time I have given myself a task with a deadline and I forgot what it's like to work against a schedule and it's REALLY cutting into my daily nap time! :biggrin:

With that said, I'd be glad to make you one of these holders but it will have to wait until I can get some other things done. Actually, I'll need to order some more 2" delrin rod so even if I wanted to I couldn't get any holders out right now anyway.

A few others have PM'd me today so I guess someone resurrected my old thread, if anyone else is interested in either the large or regular size die holders, please send me a PM for details.
 

jjudge

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I am only slightly embarrassed to admit ...

I grab my dies carefully in a locking wrench, eyeball the alignment, and cut my threads w/o a die holder.

I also chuck my taps in a jacobs chuck, in the tailstock, and carefully thread the material.


:)


Don't get wrong, I do appreciate the improved accuracy and stability of a die holder like is talked about. But, you don't *have* to have one to get started.
 

Curly

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At the moment I put the die in the headstock's 3 jaw, with the lathe off and in lowest gear (my 12 x 36 metal lathe). Put the pen barrel or section, against a live centre in the tailstock. Turn the barrel or section by hand while maintaining light pressure with the tailstock.

I'll get around to making a die holder eventually.
 
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Texatdurango

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I am only slightly embarrassed to admit ...

I grab my dies carefully in a locking wrench, eyeball the alignment, and cut my threads w/o a die holder.

I also chuck my taps in a jacobs chuck, in the tailstock, and carefully thread the material.
:)

Don't get wrong, I do appreciate the improved accuracy and stability of a die holder like is talked about. But, you don't *have* to have one to get started.

Joe, this is very true but look at this and tell me who has the most fun cutting threads. And about eyeballing, I thread with my eyes closed! :biggrin: .......... die-holder.MOV - YouTube

With a hanful of set screws and a 4" piece of Delrin (or other material) it takes about an hour to make one yourself. And since I keep a Beall collet chuck mounted in my Jet mini lathe headstock 100% of the time, I've found nothing easier and quicker!
 
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Texatdurango

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Nice die holder.

Is there some kind of support or bearing in the middle of die holder?
Support or bearing? I'm not sure I follow the question, it's a solid block of Aceltal (Delrin) with a .252" hole that a .250" steel shaft slides freely on. No lubrication is needed as with metal to metal tools since the acetal acts as it's own lubricant.
 

TerryDowning

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Thanks George, I think I understand.

Start with a block of material and turn round to desired dimension
Drill 1" hole on one side to a set depth (height of die plus some for material coming through the tap.) 1 inch plus die height?

Drill 1 1/2" hole on other side to a set depth (height of die plus some for material coming through the tap.) 1 inch plus die height?

These 2 holes should not meet!

Drill .252" hole between the two to serve as the "bearing" surface for the tool so it retains center and spins freely.

I don't have any delrin, but have some 8/4 maple stock screaming for something to do.
Do you think that would do the job? Provided I wax the .250" shaft...

I would also have to figure out the set screws for keeping the dies in place.
 

Texatdurango

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Thanks George, I think I understand.

Start with a block of material and turn round to desired dimension
Drill 1" hole on one side to a set depth (height of die plus some for material coming through the tap.) 1 inch plus die height? You're better quality "adjustable" dies are usually exactly .999" with some being 1.000" but you will probably find many dies that measure down as far as .890" so I made my holes a hair over 1" so all the dies would fit even when adjusted out.

Drill 1 1/2" hole on other side to a set depth (height of die plus some for material coming through the tap.) 1 inch plus die height?

These 2 holes should not meet! Make the tool wide enough to comfortably grip with your hand, see how I grasp mine in the video, as a suggestion, my tools are 4" wide.

Drill .252" hole between the two to serve as the "bearing" surface for the tool so it retains center and spins freely. I've had that .252" reamer for years but odds are you won't find one readily available so just use a .250 drill and perhaps sand your rod down a bit so it slides and rotates very freely.


I don't have any delrin, but have some 8/4 maple stock screaming for something to do.
Do you think that would do the job? Provided I wax the .250" shaft... The set screw threads are very fine. I've tapped hard rock maple in the past but never that small or fine so make sure it will hold the threads before starting.

I would also have to figure out the set screws for keeping the dies in place. This is where you need to be pretty accurate so measure very closely and drill very straight else you'll have lousy threads when you tap the hole.

You got it!
 

wiset1

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I'm pretty sure I'll be wanting one as well when things slow down. Scratch that...a couple of them!
 
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TerryDowning

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Thanks George. I'll give this a shot when I get a chance.
If I wasn't so cheap I'd just order one from you and wait of course, because I know you are busy.

But I am cheap and I have the rock maple. This stuff is more than 50 years old stored in a dry environment and hard as a rock. It was left over from a bowling alley lane remodel, when my dad worked at a bowling alley in the 50s. This stuff is very hard with tight straight grain. Not very pretty wood, no eyes, no curl, and no figure but great for stuff like this and tool handles and such.

I will measure my exact dies before drilling or making adjustments to diameter. I intended to make the barrel long enough for my hand, this will give a better bearing surface on the tool itself.

I will post pics and results when done.
 

TerryDowning

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I said I would give it a shot and here its.

I was wrong on my available stock size it was 6/4 not 8/4. This is ok though as I don't have any 1 1/2" dies I would use in pen making right now anyways.

6/4 maple stock
rip and cross cut to size
turn round between centers
use scroll chuck to drill 1" sockets for dies, 3/4" relief cuts and 1/4" through hole.
I mounted this onto my mandrel for final sizing and shaping. I also put on 3 coats of thin CA just to seal the wood and provide some grime protection.
Drilled and tapped holes for the set screws. I used 10-24 1/4" long set screws I picked up at HD for 84 cents per pack. I did squirt some CA into the tapped holes and chased clean to provide some reinforcement and wear resistance to the threaded wood.

I used some 1/4 inch all thread for the support rod which is held by my drill chuck.

So, for less than 2 bucks, here it is. I'm threading 1/2" x 20 threads on some 1/2" urethane rod I had on hand. I plan on using this material for making some sections.

MapleDieHolder1.jpg

mapledieholder2.jpg

Thanks for the great design and advice George!!

Terry
 

Texatdurango

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I said I would give it a shot and here its.

...Terry

Glad it worked out for you! So, how do you like using it so far? To me the nicest feature is moving the die in and out without moving the tailstock or manually trying to hold a die handle perfectly aligned with the blank.

I use five dies on a regular basis and have all of them mounted in these holders. Not that I'm in a big hurry it's just nice to have tools like this to make the tasks a little more enjoyable and not be spending time changing out dies all the time.

I guess the threaded rod is better than nothing and as long as you can slide the holder smoothly on the rod, that's all that matters.

Now for some pen photos! :biggrin:
 

TerryDowning

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I only did the one test so far, and it worked great. It was so much easier than my previous method of using a handheld die holder.

For now, I only have a standard tap and die set so I'll be using the 1/2" x 20 and 3/8" x 24 for most of my pens until I can get some new taps and dies.

I plan on starting a pen soon. (Tonight hopefully, maybe this weekend? Fortunately, I do have a day job, but that does limit shop time). I'll post photos once I have something to take pictures of.

Thanks again George!

Terry
 

TerryDowning

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Ok, I said I would post my first pen when finished. Please go to This thread in SOYP to see.

I don't think I 'll do very many more all black pens, this was difficult to get to this level of finish, and the truth is it's actually a pretty boring pen. This is a prototype for different design ideas using materials I have available.

The die holder worked beautifully. The threads are a bit stiff to turn, How can I adjust that to make it less difficult to twist?

Thanks George and all the other regular posters on here for ideas and inspiration.


Terry
 
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