In answer to several of the above posts, Ryan Krusac was making and successfully selling $300 kit pens at multiple pen shows around the country. He told me that he found The Statesman to be the best kit and used it almost exclusively. Statesman II is equal, but smaller. If the look of the nib is the selling/buying point, Ryan would supply a 14k nib for an additional $125 [his cost the last time I was on his site].
I've never heard a disparaging remark about the nibs on the handful of pens I showed to the local pen club. I had one scratchy and dry nib on a Kojent kit pen [only 1 out of 50], and the Woodcraft store handed me a new nib which worked quite fine.
I, too, found the kit pens heavy, and lightened one by eliminating the barrel finial, which makes it non-postable. Then I went a step further and eliminated the cap finial and clip, making it even lighter but it can't be carried in a shirt pocket and might roll off the desk. And you end up discarding about half the parts you paid $30 for!
I discarded the idea of "kitless" pens because of the need to buy rather expensive multi-start taps and dies, or purchase a more expensive metal lathe with threading ability. Add to this the fact that wood doesn't thread very well, and that sealed the decision. So, I made a few dip pen holders that only require a small insert pressed into a 1/4" hole in the barrel -- almost kitless!
Wood needs a liner, derlin, aluminum or brass works well, best to make the lower sections from ebonite , don't need multi start taps, basic metric HSS plug taps work fine, I use either 1 1/2 or 2 inch round dies and a 12$ die holder , chuck it in the tail stock with a drill chuck or can even slide it on a punch rod chucked in a collet
I do by hand on my wood lathe, i do have a machinst lathe but you would not use the the threading gears and a threading bit for something that small in soft material
You do need a good selection of letter, metric and fractional bits to get the desired thread class fit , as some materials drill differently than others , so maybe the book calls for a certain metric drill for that tap but it may be better to step up the the nearest decimal inch +/- in fractional or letter
Having multiple drill Chuck's helps, I have 6 Jacobs that collected from from ebay $20-45 used, just have to watch for deals , makes it little easier , as may end up using 8 different drill sizes and 4 different taps , but one chuck will do
Some use triple starts on cap threads, those admit are pricey , I find a looser fit and course thread works fine, just don't need too many threads, or will have excess turns to uncap
The art however is getting the bottom of the barrel to fit with a light snug in the cap without having either a giant cap, poor balance or loose cap , likewise getting the section to fit in the cap without jamming the nib into the bottom of the cap
Can buy used Starrett or.other US made vintage machinest calipers, depths gauges, rules, etc all day long on eBay for cheap
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