Kitless fountain Pens

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Jontello

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
478
Location
USA, Ohio
Hello Fountain pen people

I was wondering if there might be someone out there that could help me out in this venture. I am looking into starting to make Kitless fountain pens. I know that there are a lot of resources here which i have read and on line but I am an artist and a visual learner. Unfortunately do not do well with articles. I was wondering if there might be someone who would be willing to show me hands on how this is done and i would love just to see it done once. I am willing to drive out to you whenever is convenient. Pay you for your materials. I am willing to drive up to 5 hour to you. I am in north east ohio. Let me know. Thanks in advance.

Jon
 
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Jontello

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
478
Location
USA, Ohio
Thanks Joey. I have seen that video about 10 times. I understand the concepts but still a. Missing seeing it first hand and being able to ask questions and take notes on my questions. Hope I can find someone. Good video though.
 

Joey-Nieves

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2012
Messages
362
Location
Vega Baja, Puerto Rico

That last drawing is an autocad image I made, when I was trying to figure out how to make a kitless pen. I made some of these jigs after I saw some post and or tutorials in the library.

Basically, they work like a close end mandrel, they have the indside thread that is 8.5 m x1 to fit many sections in the market, and a 10mm x3x.75 for the cap.
you may want to star with a 10 m x ,75 or 1 for your section, and 12 mm . .75 for you cap and body. Get a section for an statesman or gentleman pen the thread is 10mm x .75, if you use an El grande those are usually 10mx1. for your body thread use 12mm x .75. star with 3/4 acrylic Acetate blank not pr resin because they are more crisp and you don't need the aggravation while you learn. Buy 2 or 3 blanks so that you have enough to experiment with. After you master the body the you can start with the section, they are a pain to make because the usually break when you are almost done. Acrylic acetate blanks are very good for this, they thread very well and are more forgiving when you turn.

10 mm pens are more difficult to make, why? because your section should be 8.5mm (5/16) so you can fit an ink converter. 8MM for a rollerball.
when you cut you 10mm thread, the go almost .5 mm deep and then cut the 8.5mm female thread that also cuts about .8mm into your material, your left with less than a 1mm wall. That is to thin and will not survive the turning and if it does it will break when you use it. I cheat, but that will be another lesson
 
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