FP novice

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Markus666

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I've made several hundred pens but never a fountain pen. From looking through the forum, it seems I have much to learn, starting with the terminology and moving into the mechanics of the pens. I'd really appreciate knowing where I can learn to do it right and how to address problems. Are there books and or videos you can recommend? Thanks for helping.
 
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geoffholden

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I've made several hundred pens but never a fountain pen. From looking through the forum, it seems I have much to learn, starting with the terminology and moving into the mechanics of the pens. I'd really appreciate knowing where I can learn to do it right and how to address problems. Are there books and or videos you can recommend? Thanks for helping.
I recently made my first, and it's honestly not much different to make than any ballpoint or rollerball. The only thing is that you might want to upgrade the nib.
Now, I understand that a lot of people here do kitless fountain pens, for that you'll need to study up.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

More4dan

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Watch this guys videos on adjusting the nib. It is amazing the difference it can make in the performance and feel of your pen and it simple enough even I can do it. You will need a 10x loupe. I've made a cheap nib write correctly and smooth and a JOWO and Bock nib write like a dream. My Bock nibs have required more tuning than any I've worked with. I've had problems with the last 2 not consistently flowing ink to the tip. This guy's videos set me in the right direction to correct them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuq9tuKRbCY

Danny
 

Mr Vic

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As stated above the making of one from a kit is the same as any other capped pen. Tuning of a nib gets into the advanced level. If you want a good reference on the basic operation check out Goulet Pens Blog: Fountain Pen 101
A wealth of knowledge in the videos he has on line.

A word of caution: If you think pen turning/making is addictive, then you'll find Fountain Pens just as addictive. But it is a lot of fun!!!
 
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Markus666

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I'm with everyone else, what do you think is different?
In terms of what's different, I don't know anything about converters, pumps, nib sizes (I see #5 and 6 mentioned a lot), nib replacement (i.e., how to), good nibs v bad v great, differences in inks, desirability of prefilled cartridges v refillable reservoirs, how to test a pen and clean it prior to sale. While I'm confident I can make the pen, I want to be able to answer customer questions and hold an intelligent conversation. As you can see, I'm not there yet!!
 

chartle

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A word of caution: If you think pen turning/making is addictive, then you'll find Fountain Pens just as addictive. But it is a lot of fun!!!

Yes beware of the rabbit hole that is fountain pens. I started this addiction making a fountain pen for my fountain pen nerd son.
 

chartle

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I'm with everyone else, what do you think is different?
In terms of what's different, I don't know anything about converters, pumps, nib sizes (I see #5 and 6 mentioned a lot), nib replacement (i.e., how to), good nibs v bad v great, differences in inks, desirability of prefilled cartridges v refillable reservoirs, how to test a pen and clean it prior to sale. While I'm confident I can make the pen, I want to be able to answer customer questions and hold an intelligent conversation. As you can see, I'm not there yet!!

I guess you planning on making high end pens and selling them?

So yes, you will need to know all about this*, but making them is no different.

* see you in a few years. :)
 

chartle

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bmachin

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All of the advice given here is really great. I would start with Duncan's recommendation, but refine it a little bit for you and have you start here:

RichardsPens.com • Pens That Write Right!

If you read bullet points 1 and 4 you will have a pretty good idea of how nibs and feeds work together.

In addition to all the links above take a look under the Resources tab at:

Edison Pen Co

One suggestion that I found worthwhile starting out: Buy a Churchill or El Grande kit. Before you even start building the kit take a good hard look at the grip section, feed and nib. Install the converter and fill it with some ink or colored water. You now have a fountain pen.
Wiggle--DON'T TWIST-- the nib and feed out of the section to get an idea of how this thing works. It all seems pretty simple, but historically it took a long time to get it right.

For what it's worth

Bill
 

Markus666

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Giroy, California
Watch this guys videos on adjusting the nib. It is amazing the difference it can make in the performance and feel of your pen and it simple enough even I can do it. You will need a 10x loupe. I've made a cheap nib write correctly and smooth and a JOWO and Bock nib write like a dream. My Bock nibs have required more tuning than any I've worked with. I've had problems with the last 2 not consistently flowing ink to the tip. This guy's videos set me in the right direction to correct them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuq9tuKRbCY

Danny
Thanks for the video recommendation. I watched all 3 parts. Great stuff and I learned a lot. Thanks
 

Markus666

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I guess you planning on making high end pens and selling them?

So yes, you will need to know all about this*, but making them is no different.

* see you in a few years. :)
I am planning on making higher end pens and selling them. Feeling a little better about it after spending a few hours on RichardsPens.com
 

Markus666

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Aug 12, 2016
Messages
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Giroy, California
All of the advice given here is really great. I would start with Duncan's recommendation, but refine it a little bit for you and have you start here:

RichardsPens.com • Pens That Write Right!

If you read bullet points 1 and 4 you will have a pretty good idea of how nibs and feeds work together.

In addition to all the links above take a look under the Resources tab at:

Edison Pen Co

One suggestion that I found worthwhile starting out: Buy a Churchill or El Grande kit. Before you even start building the kit take a good hard look at the grip section, feed and nib. Install the converter and fill it with some ink or colored water. You now have a fountain pen.
Wiggle--DON'T TWIST-- the nib and feed out of the section to get an idea of how this thing works. It all seems pretty simple, but historically it took a long time to get it right.

For what it's worth

Bill
thanks. where can i find the Churchill or El Grande kits? I do most of my ordering thru PSI.
 

chartle

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Cliff: I think you're trying to scare me by sending me to the masters videos!

Gives you something to aspire to but I found them very entertaining.

But these kinds of videos and metal machining videos give me a lot of little tips. Metal machining helps me with things like odd and out of the box ways to hold things.
 

Markus666

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Giroy, California
You can find the Churchill or El Grande at www.beartoothwoods.com Great folks ther and you can also get them through Woodcraft. They are both Berea kits and you could also order direct from them. They are low cost and large pens.
Thanks. I ordered a couple of each! Can wait.
I noticed that I don't see any fountain pens made with nice woods. Is that because of the risk of staining them with ink? If so, would a CA finish eliminate that risk?
 

duncsuss

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I noticed that I don't see any fountain pens made with nice woods.

I've seen lots of fountain pens made in burl and other exotic woods.

(I've made them in Amboyna burl, Honduras Rosewood burl, Aspen burl, Cocobolo burl, African Blackwood burl -- and probably a few others I don't remember right now.)

Typically the innards are protected from ink by the brass tubes (or some other liner, if it's a kitless pen), and the outside is protected by whatever finish the maker applies. Some makers choose to use CA, others don't like CA and go for a more "natural" finish. I've only done that with Lignum vitae, which has the reputation of being impervious to just about everything.
 

Markus666

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Giroy, California
I've seen lots of fountain pens made in burl and other exotic woods.

(I've made them in Amboyna burl, Honduras Rosewood burl, Aspen burl, Cocobolo burl, African Blackwood burl -- and probably a few others I don't remember right now.)

Typically the innards are protected from ink by the brass tubes (or some other liner, if it's a kitless pen), and the outside is protected by whatever finish the maker applies. Some makers choose to use CA, others don't like CA and go for a more "natural" finish. I've only done that with Lignum vitae, which has the reputation of being impervious to just about everything.
Just checked out you Appolo Infinity. Very nice.
 

chartle

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I noticed that I don't see any fountain pens made with nice woods. Is that because of the risk of staining them with ink? If so, would a CA finish eliminate that risk?

:question: I'm now sure you are going to get tons of pics of FPs made out of nice woods. :)
 
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duncsuss

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Just checked out you Appolo Infinity. Very nice.

Thanks -- one that I like even better is this "modified Churchill" dressed up in Cocobolo burl.

IMGP6947.jpg

IMGP6949.jpg
 
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Pierre---

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